MY Real Street 275 build
09-18-2013, 05:27 PM
#242
Look into that chassis black stuff Eastwood offers. I want to use it on my car. It's supposed to hold up well, and the black will look better IMO.
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-2k-...sis-black.html
Grab that stuff, and a cheap HVLP paint gun and go to town.
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-2k-...sis-black.html
Grab that stuff, and a cheap HVLP paint gun and go to town.
Thanks Jax!!! You got a nice ride too my man!
09-18-2013, 05:50 PM
#244
Hey Martin, I you are going to spray those monkey bars, us a fresh air respirator system. Being inside the car with urethane based paints with a plain old respirator is a NO GO. A plane respirator cannot protect you and that stuff will hurt you. I have 25 years in the car business and many of those managing body shops. PLEASE take my advice on this.
09-18-2013, 05:54 PM
#245
Hey Martin, I you are going to spray those monkey bars, us a fresh air respirator system. Being inside the car with urethane based paints with a plain old respirator is a NO GO. A plane respirator cannot protect you and that stuff will hurt you. I have 25 years in the car business and many of those managing body shops. PLEASE take my advice on this.
Come on mom, just once won't hurt me! LMAO!!!
J/K Steve. Our next door "neighbor" at the shop actually is a 8,000+ sq. ft. body shop. I'm probably going to borrow one of his spray guns and I'll ask to borrow the proper respirator as well.
09-18-2013, 06:09 PM
#246
Good to hear. The reason why it is different is because when you are painting a a car in a down draft or cross draft spray booth, the paint fumes and overspray are constantly being pulled away from you and being replaced with fresh air. When you are inside the vehicle, this cannot happen leaving the fumes trapped inside the vehicle with you. Standard respirators remove particles. That is all they can do. You will inhale a healthy dose of fumes that can really hurt you. The reason why this is so important to me, is that during the last 5 years of my automotive career, I lost two friends who were technicians in the autobody industry. Both of them were stubborn as hell about their safety equipment. Very sad.
09-19-2013, 12:23 AM
#247
glad you put up pics of your fuel set up, I have been looking for a good in tank set up for ever. I thought I was going to have to get my uncle to machine me a hat and go from there. I guess you had to special order the #10 feed/#8 return? Good progress so far, I know you have to be getting anxious.
09-19-2013, 05:17 AM
#248
If your neighboring body shop can't help you, call Eastwood. I'm sure they'll point you in the right direction. I was just thinking of a cheap HVLP gun since you don't care 100% about spray quality (like painting the exterior of a car).....basically something you could throw out afterwards if its a piece of crap.
Let me know what you decide on.
Let me know what you decide on.
09-19-2013, 10:18 PM
#250
Martin I've had great success with the $30 harbor freight HVLP gun painting suspension stuff and frames with chassis paint. Its actually on sale for $16 bucks http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-8...gun-67181.html
09-19-2013, 10:59 PM
#251
Good to hear. The reason why it is different is because when you are painting a a car in a down draft or cross draft spray booth, the paint fumes and overspray are constantly being pulled away from you and being replaced with fresh air. When you are inside the vehicle, this cannot happen leaving the fumes trapped inside the vehicle with you. Standard respirators remove particles. That is all they can do. You will inhale a healthy dose of fumes that can really hurt you. The reason why this is so important to me, is that during the last 5 years of my automotive career, I lost two friends who were technicians in the autobody industry. Both of them were stubborn as hell about their safety equipment. Very sad.
glad you put up pics of your fuel set up, I have been looking for a good in tank set up for ever. I thought I was going to have to get my uncle to machine me a hat and go from there. I guess you had to special order the #10 feed/#8 return? Good progress so far, I know you have to be getting anxious.
If your neighboring body shop can't help you, call Eastwood. I'm sure they'll point you in the right direction. I was just thinking of a cheap HVLP gun since you don't care 100% about spray quality (like painting the exterior of a car).....basically something you could throw out afterwards if its a piece of crap.
Let me know what you decide on.
Let me know what you decide on.
I'll check it out tomorrow morning! Thanks Steve!
Martin I've had great success with the $30 harbor freight HVLP gun painting suspension stuff and frames with chassis paint. Its actually on sale for $16 bucks http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-8...gun-67181.html
09-20-2013, 01:06 PM
#252
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Good to hear. The reason why it is different is because when you are painting a a car in a down draft or cross draft spray booth, the paint fumes and overspray are constantly being pulled away from you and being replaced with fresh air. When you are inside the vehicle, this cannot happen leaving the fumes trapped inside the vehicle with you. Standard respirators remove particles. That is all they can do. You will inhale a healthy dose of fumes that can really hurt you. The reason why this is so important to me, is that during the last 5 years of my automotive career, I lost two friends who were technicians in the autobody industry. Both of them were stubborn as hell about their safety equipment. Very sad.
09-20-2013, 11:37 PM
#253
Matt started working on the back half of the car today. He is going to be triangulating some points off the main hoop and down bars for added rigidity in the rear suspension. We're also going to gusset where the down bars attach to the main hoop with 3/4" tubing.
This thing WILL go 1.12-1.14 60' in due time from the amount of chassis work we're doing. Not in Real Street, but in the future with the plans I have for the 6 bolt motor and a nice 88mm turbo it will. If I can consistently go 1.18-1.20 60' in Real Street I'll be in the game.
Matt is also going to gusset the funny car hoop with 1" tubing in certain areas that I'm having him do along with trying to fill in some empty space in the main hoop by gusseting those spaces.
I know I'm proud as hell of the work Matt has been doing and I know he is too. Not to discredit any other shops or downplay anyone else's work, but how many shops on this web site do you see building 25.5 cages in their own shop instead of outsourcing the work to a "real chassis shop"? We feel like we've stepped into the realm of being a true "race car shop" and not a "bolt-on/tuner" shop anymore.
We're building heads up racing engines now on top of the at least 20 engines that Jonathan has built in this year already for various levels of street cars. We've always been known for racing six speed transmissions especially with Charlie Polly having the success he did with our transmission going 8.80's in Real Street. We also want to step into the racing side of tuning as well and not just focus solely on the dyno and street tuning for street cars although that's where our main clientele is and it will still always have our main focus. The track is where we have our sights firmly set for 2014, believe that!
Stay tuned for more....
This thing WILL go 1.12-1.14 60' in due time from the amount of chassis work we're doing. Not in Real Street, but in the future with the plans I have for the 6 bolt motor and a nice 88mm turbo it will. If I can consistently go 1.18-1.20 60' in Real Street I'll be in the game.
Matt is also going to gusset the funny car hoop with 1" tubing in certain areas that I'm having him do along with trying to fill in some empty space in the main hoop by gusseting those spaces.
I know I'm proud as hell of the work Matt has been doing and I know he is too. Not to discredit any other shops or downplay anyone else's work, but how many shops on this web site do you see building 25.5 cages in their own shop instead of outsourcing the work to a "real chassis shop"? We feel like we've stepped into the realm of being a true "race car shop" and not a "bolt-on/tuner" shop anymore.
We're building heads up racing engines now on top of the at least 20 engines that Jonathan has built in this year already for various levels of street cars. We've always been known for racing six speed transmissions especially with Charlie Polly having the success he did with our transmission going 8.80's in Real Street. We also want to step into the racing side of tuning as well and not just focus solely on the dyno and street tuning for street cars although that's where our main clientele is and it will still always have our main focus. The track is where we have our sights firmly set for 2014, believe that!
Stay tuned for more....
09-21-2013, 01:07 AM
#254
badass!
im friends with the owner/ a couple guys that work there.
im doing basically the same thing in my mustang. they just put a t6 turbo kit on the 82.(huron speed) its diff worth the $$$
still deciding if i want to do my 6.2 or a 6.0l iron now..
im friends with the owner/ a couple guys that work there.
im doing basically the same thing in my mustang. they just put a t6 turbo kit on the 82.(huron speed) its diff worth the $$$
still deciding if i want to do my 6.2 or a 6.0l iron now..
09-21-2013, 06:21 AM
#256
TECH Fanatic
I like my setup but wish I had the money just to dump my car in your parking lot and say have at it lol. Ford 9", level infinity trans lol, bad *** clutch, 10pt cage, all the works lol. I wanna do a cage in mine but dred taking interior out. Mainly dash lol. But wanna keep my HVAC stuff for winter heat and I know ill have to change design of cage a little to accommodate.
09-22-2013, 12:57 AM
#258
I like my setup but wish I had the money just to dump my car in your parking lot and say have at it lol. Ford 9", level infinity trans lol, bad *** clutch, 10pt cage, all the works lol. I wanna do a cage in mine but dred taking interior out. Mainly dash lol. But wanna keep my HVAC stuff for winter heat and I know ill have to change design of cage a little to accommodate.
You can weld just as good as Matt can, there's no need for us to do anything! We could always take the interior out for you, bend up all the bars, install and tack them together and then let you finish welding them yourself.
If you go on their website you can see what it looks like.
09-22-2013, 12:08 PM
#259
TECH Fanatic
You're talking probably at least 10 hours labor time right lol.? I hate working on my own stuffI enjoy building somebody else's but when it comes to my own my own money I'm having to spend and my own problems I'm running into haha it gets me very frustrated at times. Just like the rear mounted radiator set up I spent 2 weeks fabbing up and it ended up not working like I thought so in a mad rage I ripped it all outand moved it back to the front so I would be able to come see you guys October 5th. frustration comes with the territory on cars like this though. Thanks for the compliment on my welding skills. I'm still just an amateur!
09-23-2013, 05:05 PM
#260
You're looking at close to 25 hours at least Stephen. At least. Possibly 30+.
Got the weight bar mount and weight bar fabricated. The bar itself is 2x3x16 tubing and we're hoping to fill it with 50lbs. of lead shot. As you can see the end cap is removable which means we can add or take out weight if needed.
We also triangulated the weight bar and down bars off the main hoop for added rigidity in the back half.
Got the weight bar mount and weight bar fabricated. The bar itself is 2x3x16 tubing and we're hoping to fill it with 50lbs. of lead shot. As you can see the end cap is removable which means we can add or take out weight if needed.
We also triangulated the weight bar and down bars off the main hoop for added rigidity in the back half.
