SN95 5.3 TH400 3.27 build thread - 10.88/134.86 - NOW LQ9
07-19-2014, 10:12 AM
#121
7 runs, 20 min cool downs, made it to there and back under its own power!
1.88-7.21/106 & 10.88/134.32 AT 16PSI. I did put 5 gals of 100 octane in there for some protection
Car is a slug off the line and I couldn't leave with any boost, just pushes through the brakes. And, I get an 1100 rpm drop from 1-2, but only 400 from 2-3. I gotta feeling the converter slipping up top cause I think the mph is a little light for 16 psi. My guess is that the car weighs about 3600 with me in there at 210lbs??
No meth injection and the highest IAT was 125* at the end of the runs.
Not epic times, but definitely a good time
1.88-7.21/106 & 10.88/134.32 AT 16PSI. I did put 5 gals of 100 octane in there for some protection
Car is a slug off the line and I couldn't leave with any boost, just pushes through the brakes. And, I get an 1100 rpm drop from 1-2, but only 400 from 2-3. I gotta feeling the converter slipping up top cause I think the mph is a little light for 16 psi. My guess is that the car weighs about 3600 with me in there at 210lbs??
No meth injection and the highest IAT was 125* at the end of the runs.
Not epic times, but definitely a good time
08-28-2014, 07:50 AM
#125
We'll, couldnt leave well-enough alone. Car ran excellent. It did seem to lack a bit of low-end torque which I guess is typical of 5.3's and it is only worsened by 3.27 gears and then 28" tires. So what do about that - cam, converter, gears etc? How about another 39 cubic inches and 60hp/55tq? That sounds good. Picked up a 77k mile LQ9 out of an Escalade. Was told it was an 06, but I'm thinking more like a 04-05. Has the beefy rods and floating pins, flat top pistons. But, the head bolts are the 2 different size style.
Installed china studs, LS9 gaskets, the TrickFlow LS2-style rubbing block/damper, and an LS2 chain. Opened the ring gaps (some were ~.014-.016). Reinstalled the LS6 cam and were off!
Following initial impressions: - I cant tell I installed a bigger more powerful motor lol!!!! Spool is the same - positive pressure at 3400, idle speed the same at 700, vacuum same at 22". Driving around it feels the same - wouldnt even know I changed engines. Seems to be more powerful in boost though. Only running about 11psi at the moment.
When it was all said and done, it cost me maybe 500.00 including the upgrades for the LQ9 after selling everything off so it didnt exactly lighten the wallet too much. The 5.3 I thought ran pretty good at 16psi, maybe this can do the same with say 14psi. Couple more weeks of driving around and we'll make a track visit after I'm confident the thing will stay together!!!!
Installed china studs, LS9 gaskets, the TrickFlow LS2-style rubbing block/damper, and an LS2 chain. Opened the ring gaps (some were ~.014-.016). Reinstalled the LS6 cam and were off!
Following initial impressions: - I cant tell I installed a bigger more powerful motor lol!!!! Spool is the same - positive pressure at 3400, idle speed the same at 700, vacuum same at 22". Driving around it feels the same - wouldnt even know I changed engines. Seems to be more powerful in boost though. Only running about 11psi at the moment.
When it was all said and done, it cost me maybe 500.00 including the upgrades for the LQ9 after selling everything off so it didnt exactly lighten the wallet too much. The 5.3 I thought ran pretty good at 16psi, maybe this can do the same with say 14psi. Couple more weeks of driving around and we'll make a track visit after I'm confident the thing will stay together!!!!
01-04-2015, 08:34 AM
#128
Some updates. As mention prior I installed a ~'04 LQ9 with 74k miles out of an Escalade. I opened the rings to .026 (one I opened too much to .028 and stuck that in #7 since that seems to be the problematic jug). LS9 head gaskets, china studs, and a set of Pac 1218 springs - thanks Mr. Hankpeabody 
Reused the ls6 cam.
Little bit of "prep" - had to do 2 of these.
Ever wonder why the LS9 gaskets work good:
Also installed the Trickflow chain damper assembly which is actually pretty nice and robust, definitely helps with chain whip for sure. The chain is an LS2 piece which is a little thicker than the truck chain.
Reused the ls6 cam. 
Little bit of "prep" - had to do 2 of these.
Ever wonder why the LS9 gaskets work good:
Also installed the Trickflow chain damper assembly which is actually pretty nice and robust, definitely helps with chain whip for sure. The chain is an LS2 piece which is a little thicker than the truck chain.
01-04-2015, 09:02 AM
#129
Car runs great, surprisingly not a lot seat-of-the-pants difference between this and the 5.3....could be all converter related though - we will see.
I inadvertently left the diver's side coils/Holley ground loose as its bolted to the head and against the firewall. I started the bolts and never fully tightened it which resulted in erratic spark and then this debacle:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...2-11-5afr.html
Replaced the rods and been whipping this engines butt for a good while. I keep it at about 13psi for the street which is still too much for the 275/60 drag radials.
Car runs great, idles at 700 and drives real good except for what I think it a loose converter. What bothers me though is how loud the car is. Running a single 3.5" downpipe connected to two small bullets and dumping out the side in front of the pass side rear tire. I don't know how the fender-exit guys tolerate it for any kind of street use. I tried to install some kind of exhaust system and ordered a ton of stuff from Summit and tried to get something to work. I just couldn't do it laying on my back and figure out the angles. The triangulation braces I had installed on the rear prevented off the shelf tail pipes from being used - they needed to be made. So I reluctantly took the car to an exhaust shop and had them install a full 2.5" system with Magnaflows and tail pipes. What an upgrade! I dont even care if I lost some power, its such a pleasure to drive now. I would like to test the difference between an open DP and then through the exhaust. A 3" system would of been my 1st choice but it just wasn't going to fit easily in this situation, and b/c nobody else really cares about our cars we need go with the flow (no pun) in some situations.
Old school turn downs - I like it:
It is very very quiet, which it what I was totally after.
I inadvertently left the diver's side coils/Holley ground loose as its bolted to the head and against the firewall. I started the bolts and never fully tightened it which resulted in erratic spark and then this debacle:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...2-11-5afr.html
Replaced the rods and been whipping this engines butt for a good while. I keep it at about 13psi for the street which is still too much for the 275/60 drag radials.
Car runs great, idles at 700 and drives real good except for what I think it a loose converter. What bothers me though is how loud the car is. Running a single 3.5" downpipe connected to two small bullets and dumping out the side in front of the pass side rear tire. I don't know how the fender-exit guys tolerate it for any kind of street use. I tried to install some kind of exhaust system and ordered a ton of stuff from Summit and tried to get something to work. I just couldn't do it laying on my back and figure out the angles. The triangulation braces I had installed on the rear prevented off the shelf tail pipes from being used - they needed to be made. So I reluctantly took the car to an exhaust shop and had them install a full 2.5" system with Magnaflows and tail pipes. What an upgrade! I dont even care if I lost some power, its such a pleasure to drive now. I would like to test the difference between an open DP and then through the exhaust. A 3" system would of been my 1st choice but it just wasn't going to fit easily in this situation, and b/c nobody else really cares about our cars we need go with the flow (no pun) in some situations.
Old school turn downs - I like it:
It is very very quiet, which it what I was totally after.
01-04-2015, 09:14 AM
#130
Couple of other small things. I wanted to get the factory speedo working, which I was able to do with the help of this guy:
I actually got the factory tach working too with the tach signal wire from the Holley ECU, but the tach reading was off b/c it was a 6 cyl car. I need another Dakota Dig box and then that will work also.
I was also able to get a speedo signal to the Holley ECU via the Ford front wheel/anti-lock sensor. The Holley HP will only recognize a square-wave signal and the factory wheel sensor generates a sine wave. We'll, just need to buy another converter box and now I can datalog mph and will eventually get the boost vs. speed boost control when I get around to it.
Next mod will be the converter. Pretty sure I'm somewhat blowing through this unit in the midrange and a bit up top. Dont want to waste any of the turbos efforts during acceleration anymore
I actually got the factory tach working too with the tach signal wire from the Holley ECU, but the tach reading was off b/c it was a 6 cyl car. I need another Dakota Dig box and then that will work also.
I was also able to get a speedo signal to the Holley ECU via the Ford front wheel/anti-lock sensor. The Holley HP will only recognize a square-wave signal and the factory wheel sensor generates a sine wave. We'll, just need to buy another converter box and now I can datalog mph and will eventually get the boost vs. speed boost control when I get around to it.
Next mod will be the converter. Pretty sure I'm somewhat blowing through this unit in the midrange and a bit up top. Dont want to waste any of the turbos efforts during acceleration anymore
01-14-2015, 06:29 AM
#132
Thanks. Just ordered a PTC converter and hopefully I'll be impressed b/c honestly, this 450.00 Trans Specialties unit lets the turbo light-off instantly. Its just a little loose (in my mind anyway). Figured crossed.
Funny thing is, the current converter seems A LOT tighter since I had a full exhaust installed that is super quiet!
Funny thing is, the current converter seems A LOT tighter since I had a full exhaust installed that is super quiet!
01-22-2015, 11:00 AM
#135
The obligatory PTC converter post:
This is the 9.5" job. I have no money at this point.
I have some concerns however. The primary purpose of the car is street. Wondering if my slightly slippery "low stall" 245mm Trans Spec unit was better for around-town/back roads, as it let the turbo instantly light off. Hoping this converter will be OK for the intented purpose.
This is the 9.5" job. I have no money at this point.
I have some concerns however. The primary purpose of the car is street. Wondering if my slightly slippery "low stall" 245mm Trans Spec unit was better for around-town/back roads, as it let the turbo instantly light off. Hoping this converter will be OK for the intented purpose.
03-07-2015, 03:58 PM
#136
Small update. Installed a fuel pressure gauge and the boost gauge using a Autometer dash bezel. Also got the factory tach and speedos working via Dakota Digital boxes. Only the factory oil pressure and water temp arent hooked up b/c the factory oil gauge is either an on/off deal so that's pretty much worthless and the temp gauge isn't graduated so I'll use a set of triple gauges.
Note: My fuel pressure gauge on the left is actually a "Water pressure" gauge which I suspect is the same as a fuel pressure gauge, just labeled different. They use the same everything. This is the "elite" version, it flashes red if it goes into warning mode, and also can be used to trigger a relay or something - real nice. Got it cheap is why I'm using it.
2 switches below the gauges are for the 2 step/boost builder and the other is boost scramble (high boost).
Will be trying for some track or dyno time soon, dam snow is killing us
Note: My fuel pressure gauge on the left is actually a "Water pressure" gauge which I suspect is the same as a fuel pressure gauge, just labeled different. They use the same everything. This is the "elite" version, it flashes red if it goes into warning mode, and also can be used to trigger a relay or something - real nice. Got it cheap is why I'm using it.
2 switches below the gauges are for the 2 step/boost builder and the other is boost scramble (high boost).
Will be trying for some track or dyno time soon, dam snow is killing us
03-09-2015, 08:27 AM
#140
Thanks. I was a little afraid it would be too loud with the 2.5"x14" mufflers but its fine. If these were 3" mufflers I think this would of been too loud. I really wanted 18" muffs but it was just too tight with the triangulation braces that were welded to the 8.8 rear axle.