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SN95 5.3 TH400 3.27 build thread - 10.88/134.86 - NOW LQ9

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Old 06-02-2015 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Bowtiedford
Weldcraft Wheels did it. pricey 200.00 a rim plus shipping. But priceless for the sleeper look I wanted to achieve.
How do they fit the car.
Old 06-03-2015 | 06:39 AM
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Fits perfect
Old 06-03-2015 | 08:35 AM
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400.00 is kinda steep but I guess it depends on what the intention is. I was thinking of a set of 17" Cobra wheels knock-offs so then I can get the Cobra brakes in there. These factory brakes are marginal, at least it my case despite EBC brakes and new rotors.
Old 06-03-2015 | 09:17 AM
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I have about 600 in them, had them re drilled for 5 lug. I have Wilwood brakes all around to stop lol. But as you said "intentions". My car looks factory stock, no visible gauges at all and interior looks total factory stock. Sleeper!
Old 06-09-2015 | 09:25 AM
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I'm at the beginning stages of doing a 5.3l swap into my 98 v6 mustang and I have a question about your gauges. It looks like you've swapped out gauges a lot and I know the Dakota digital stuff isn't cheap. Would it have been cheaper and easier just to go with a gauge cluster kit from Florida50 or Speedhut? Also, I'm planning on using Holley HP EFI also.

Subscribing to your thread, lots of good info.

Last edited by Sube; 06-09-2015 at 11:26 AM.
Old 06-09-2015 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Sube
I'm at the beginning stages of doing a 5.3l swap into my 98 v6 mustang and I have a question about your gauges. It looks like you've swapped out gauges a lot and I know the Dakota digital stuff isn't cheap. Would it have been cheaper and easier just to go with a gauge cluster kit from Florida50 or Speedhut? Also, I'm planning on using Holley HP EFI also.

Subscribing to your thread, lots of good info.
I'm not sure what the Florida or Speedhut gauges cost, but it only takes 160.00 via a couple of Dakota Digitial boxes to get all the factory gauges working. If you want to add a fuel pressure gauge, boost gauge etc that would all be extra. The little 3.5" Holley touch screen I purchased will let me eliminate the fuel pressure gauge and the triple gauges I have mounted down low. Its a nice piece for sure.
Old 06-09-2015 | 02:11 PM
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Yeah either one is about 700 with a cluster surround that will work with a SN95. I would want just the stock setup for right now: tach, speedo, volt, water temp, fuel level, and oil pressure.

From what I saw in your thread, you got everything to work with the factory stuff except the oil pressure and water temp? Also, did you have any problems with the Ford PATS stuff?
Old 06-09-2015 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sube
Yeah either one is about 700 with a cluster surround that will work with a SN95. I would want just the stock setup for right now: tach, speedo, volt, water temp, fuel level, and oil pressure.

From what I saw in your thread, you got everything to work with the factory stuff except the oil pressure and water temp? Also, did you have any problems with the Ford PATS stuff?
Got everything working except the water temp...something is wrong with the gauge b/c I tried 2 different sending units. When you remove your engine harness just lable everything so you can connect it to the new engine. Another reason I wanted to keep the factory gauges is b/c I wasn't sure if the aftermarket setups handled the turn signals, high beams, brake lights, etc etc.

No issues with the PATS - not even sure what that is. I had no trouble with ANYTHING. My airbags are still functional. But, this is a '96....things could be different for yours.
Old 06-09-2015 | 03:41 PM
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PATS is the ford's version anti theft, similar to GM's VATS. Went into affect on the 1996's. From what I read, I think you only have problems with it if you change out your cluster which you obviously didn't do which is why you didn't have problems with it.

So all I would need is the Dakota digital boxes for the speedo and tach, and then maybe do separate gauges for water temp and oil pressue for more accuracy?
Old 06-09-2015 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Sube
PATS is the ford's version anti theft, similar to GM's VATS. Went into affect on the 1996's. From what I read, I think you only have problems with it if you change out your cluster which you obviously didn't do which is why you didn't have problems with it.

So all I would need is the Dakota digital boxes for the speedo and tach, and then maybe do separate gauges for water temp and oil pressue for more accuracy?
Yep. The oil pressure is on/off, so that's not accurate, but I use that to measure oil pressure to the turbo.

I would get the Dakota boxes and get the Holley 3.5" screen with the money you saved over the custom dash gauges. Now you can monitor all the vitals and make minor tuning changes too.
Old 07-02-2015 | 12:14 PM
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sub'd!
Old 07-02-2015 | 05:00 PM
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Not much to update, been driving this things *** off, just runs so nice all the time. Converter is back in after a restall (slightly loosened). Waiting on another decent day to see what kind of track times this thing will pull down at ~17psi.

I did add a Summit driveshaft loop. For 40.00 shipped, it is a decent piece/fit. Shouldn't need it but you never know!!!!

Old 07-02-2015 | 05:55 PM
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Have you had a chance to see if the 6.0 is really a bigger diff over the 5.3
I have been looking for a spare 6.0, but their getting scares, but 5.3's are pretty plentiful
I think we have close to the same turbo, although I think I have a 92
turbine, still a T4-i have been driving the heck out of it, more or less keeping it together for the summer, but have taken a couple hits for the data log
Old 07-03-2015 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by forcd ind
Have you had a chance to see if the 6.0 is really a bigger diff over the 5.3
I have been looking for a spare 6.0, but their getting scares, but 5.3's are pretty plentiful
I think we have close to the same turbo, although I think I have a 92
turbine, still a T4-i have been driving the heck out of it, more or less keeping it together for the summer, but have taken a couple hits for the data log
Surprisingly not a whole lotta seat of the pants difference between the 5.3/6.0. Now, during the switch I had a looser converter which I think covered up the 5.3's lack of low-end (as compared to the 6.0). Now with the tighter converter, I think you would feel the difference more so. Still don't think it would be a night and day difference though.
Old 08-26-2015 | 06:44 PM
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Cool post, I was wondering what thermostat housing you used? I have a 4.8 going into a 2000 GT and that would work perfect.
Old 08-27-2015 | 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by zipster
Cool post, I was wondering what thermostat housing you used? I have a 4.8 going into a 2000 GT and that would work perfect.
Thanks. The t-stat housing is by CBM:


http://store.custombuiltmotors.com/e...ng-t-stat.html

Last edited by 69-chvl; 08-30-2015 at 07:33 PM.
Old 09-01-2015 | 08:24 PM
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We'll, the LQ9 blew-up for reasons unknown at the track, rods/pistons came out and all Never blew an engine up before! Engine was a total loss including the oil pan. Turbo had alum go through the turbine but it appears undamaged. After carefully flushing out the hot side, checked the wastegates for debris, throttle body (had some garbage in it) etc everything was reinstalled.

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Just glad I didnt wreck at the engine blew up at about 130mph and oil all over the car.

Picked-up this gem - an '02 5.3, ~120k miles for $300.00. I got 350.00 selling off all the parts I didnt need off it lol!! And I still have the exh manifolds, pan, cam and some other parts. Gotta love LS motors!

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Installed headstuds, springs and pushrods. Stock cam for a little while (a week lol).

And she's alive...

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Feels a little slow compared to the prior engines...both the 5.3 and LQ9, but they had LS6 cams. Went ahead yesterday and installed the Trick Flow 216/220 .560 114lsa. Only did some prelim tuning, but idle is rougher and making about 16psi of vac (is this right???) at 800 rpm. The good news is that she seems to be making about another 100 hp up top based on fuel consumption - WOW!!!!

Still feels flat in high gear though...someday I'll put a looser converter in there. But for now, I dont see running any more that 16psi on this motor as it has the non-floating rods and its PLENTY fast for what I do around here.
Old 09-01-2015 | 08:28 PM
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And interestingly, I cant feel NO DIFFERENCE between the 5.3 or 6.0 just driving around. Spool-up is exactly the same...right down to the rpm. Save your money folks and go 5.3!!!!
Old 09-03-2015 | 04:26 PM
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Man, that's tough! And what a find on that motor. lol Thinking about going 5.3 for awhile til I save up more moneys to build the 6.0 like I want it.
Old 09-03-2015 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Grouchy
Man, that's tough! And what a find on that motor. lol Thinking about going 5.3 for awhile til I save up more moneys to build the 6.0 like I want it.

**** happens and you just move on! If I didnt have to buy an oil pan and opted for a cam, this swap wouldnt of cost anything! Got a new CTS-V pan for like 160.00 shipped, and then the TFS cam for 280.00, so for ~460.00 after some oil/filter I'm back in business.

This 5.3 feels GREAT! Maybe b/c it has a cam and the turbo is better suited to a smaller motor, but it feels just as strong as the 6.0. My 6.0 may of been hurt so maybe I didnt get the full benefit of what that motor was capable of.


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