Fab tubing for hotside?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 85
Likes: 2
From: manteno illionois
Fab tubing for hotside? need to know where to get some hotside turbo tubing. I have looked everywhere just cant seem to find it. What do you guys recommend? 2.25? im doing a truck manifold build, tc78.
Use the search feature of the forum. It works wonders. Or just go here http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...948f612be99896
I just ordered mine from Columbia River. All stainless and was around $300 for my hot side material
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 728
Likes: 3
Columbia sells kits that'll be enough to do your car with extras left over should you decide to do some changes. The full 'ultimate' kit in 2.25" stainless is like $250. Is really hard to beat that price anywhere.
Id use sch 40 mild steel which can be found at ace stainless. Strong and not as prone toward cracking and does not have to be back purged. They have sch 10 and 40 stainless too people like the look of stainless. 2" sch pipe is just over 2" id. Order the straight pipe off ebay
Sorry. On my phone i have a tendency to skip grammar and punctuation; not that i'm that good with it in the first place.
I would use sch 40 mild steel. It has a few qualities that make it good for a typical truck manifold build. Such as, it's strong and resilient. It does not expand and shrink as much as stainless. You don't have to back purge it which saves time and money. The inner diameter of just over 2" will keep the velocity of the exhaust gasses up and the thick wall will retain the heat and carry more of it to the turbine.
You could use the sch 10 stainless as it is pretty strong and should support the weight of the turbo better than the typical 16 gauge tube. The inner diameter of sch 10 is around 2.15" and will support a little more. The price of the bends or the pipe elbows are not too far off.
Here is the crossover i did for a gto in sch 10 2". It uses 21/4" vbands and crimped 21/2 flex bellow. It is back purged.
I would use sch 40 mild steel. It has a few qualities that make it good for a typical truck manifold build. Such as, it's strong and resilient. It does not expand and shrink as much as stainless. You don't have to back purge it which saves time and money. The inner diameter of just over 2" will keep the velocity of the exhaust gasses up and the thick wall will retain the heat and carry more of it to the turbine.
You could use the sch 10 stainless as it is pretty strong and should support the weight of the turbo better than the typical 16 gauge tube. The inner diameter of sch 10 is around 2.15" and will support a little more. The price of the bends or the pipe elbows are not too far off.
Here is the crossover i did for a gto in sch 10 2". It uses 21/4" vbands and crimped 21/2 flex bellow. It is back purged.
Ah or maybe I just misread, haha. Yeah mild steel is ok. I just prefer stainless as it holds in the heat a little better, although with sch 40 I imagine it would hold it in pretty well too. If I redo my hotside it will probably be thick wall 316 stainless. Ace has that in sch 10 for pretty reasonable.
Sch 40 stuff would take a long time, lol. I personally use stainless, but even 304 stainless is not ideal. Best bet is 321, but you are talking big money then. That said, a couple of the turbo kits I helped build like 8 years ago out of thin wall 304 are still on the road today and doing fine.
Not trying to stir up a bunch of crap but just want to point out the thermal expansion of mild steel is not as great as stainless . less expansion means less chance of cracking. But I get everyone’s real life experiences are different. And it is much easier to cut and grind mild. Coated mild steel is a great product. Stainless does look better, for a few miles anyway.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...pvc-d_782.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...pvc-d_782.html
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: dalton ga
Use the search feature of the forum. It works wonders. Or just go here http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...948f612be99896
Not trying to stir up a bunch of crap but just want to point out the thermal expansion of mild steel is not as great as stainless . less expansion means less chance of cracking. But I get everyone’s real life experiences are different. And it is much easier to cut and grind mild. Coated mild steel is a great product. Stainless does look better, for a few miles anyway.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...pvc-d_782.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...pvc-d_782.html
Consider the gas turbo pipes see...superheated carbon dioxide, water, nitrogen, plus some other scarcer stuff like OH, and CO. Corrosion happens much faster the hotter you get as well.
Not trying to stir anything either, just putting out information. I have a mild steel sch40 log and 304 crossoverpipe and downpipe. The log, even being thick *** sch40, has had to be repaired because of cracks and leaks and not to mention looks horrible because of the outside coking and flaking off. The stainless parts look brand new, just goldish in color.