ls1bumblebee

need to know where to get some hotside turbo tubing. I have looked everywhere just cant seem to find it. What do you guys recommend? 2.25? im doing a truck manifold build, tc78.

eviltwin_1987

iTrader: (18)

Use the search feature of the forum. It works wonders. Or just go here http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...948f612be99896

THADD

iTrader: (12)

I just ordered mine from Columbia River. All stainless and was around $300 for my hot side material

mrstepheneades

Treadstone has pretty reasonable prices. I think 31 or so per bend for stainless.

Camaro9969

iTrader: (12)

Online metals for straights treadstone for bends. Or places mentioned above are fine

slammed99

iTrader: (1)

send me a message

Atomic

iTrader: (37)

You want 304 stainless

Chris@CBR

I can help with manifold flanges power steering lines and alternator relocation bracket.

HexenLord

Columbia sells kits that'll be enough to do your car with extras left over should you decide to do some changes. The full 'ultimate' kit in 2.25" stainless is like $250. Is really hard to beat that price anywhere.

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

Columbia river is excellent.

abnaasefmb

iTrader: (4)

Id use sch 40 mild steel which can be found at ace stainless. Strong and not as prone toward cracking and does not have to be back purged. They have sch 10 and 40 stainless too people like the look of stainless. 2" sch pipe is just over 2" id. Order the straight pipe off ebay

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

I would still backpurge. If you are getting full penetration it will still sugar on the inside. Ace does have good prices.

abnaasefmb

iTrader: (4)

Sorry. On my phone i have a tendency to skip grammar and punctuation; not that i'm that good with it in the first place.
I would use sch 40 mild steel. It has a few qualities that make it good for a typical truck manifold build. Such as, it's strong and resilient. It does not expand and shrink as much as stainless. You don't have to back purge it which saves time and money. The inner diameter of just over 2" will keep the velocity of the exhaust gasses up and the thick wall will retain the heat and carry more of it to the turbine.

You could use the sch 10 stainless as it is pretty strong and should support the weight of the turbo better than the typical 16 gauge tube. The inner diameter of sch 10 is around 2.15" and will support a little more. The price of the bends or the pipe elbows are not too far off.

Here is the crossover i did for a gto in sch 10 2". It uses 21/4" vbands and crimped 21/2 flex bellow. It is back purged.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Ah or maybe I just misread, haha. Yeah mild steel is ok. I just prefer stainless as it holds in the heat a little better, although with sch 40 I imagine it would hold it in pretty well too. If I redo my hotside it will probably be thick wall 316 stainless. Ace has that in sch 10 for pretty reasonable.

Atomic

iTrader: (37)

Mild steel will corrode and crack after a few months of use, especially if it is wrapped.

Camaro9969

iTrader: (12)

Agreed don't use ms it amazes me how people cheap out on this part just use quality stainless so you can have a kit that actually lasts

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Sch 40 stuff would take a long time, lol. I personally use stainless, but even 304 stainless is not ideal. Best bet is 321, but you are talking big money then. That said, a couple of the turbo kits I helped build like 8 years ago out of thin wall 304 are still on the road today and doing fine.

abnaasefmb

iTrader: (4)

Not trying to stir up a bunch of crap but just want to point out the thermal expansion of mild steel is not as great as stainless . less expansion means less chance of cracking. But I get everyone’s real life experiences are different. And it is much easier to cut and grind mild. Coated mild steel is a great product. Stainless does look better, for a few miles anyway.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...pvc-d_782.html

white95gt

U sir are my best friend now. I have been looking for a place to buy turbo piping

Atomic

iTrader: (37)

Yep, and heres a more important one, http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/me...nce-d_491.html

Consider the gas turbo pipes see...superheated carbon dioxide, water, nitrogen, plus some other scarcer stuff like OH, and CO. Corrosion happens much faster the hotter you get as well.

Not trying to stir anything either, just putting out information. I have a mild steel sch40 log and 304 crossoverpipe and downpipe. The log, even being thick *** sch40, has had to be repaired because of cracks and leaks and not to mention looks horrible because of the outside coking and flaking off. The stainless parts look brand new, just goldish in color.