Has anyone ran a f1r blower and 1100hp+ with it. I like the simplicity as its a direct bolt on. This would be my exact setup if I go blower. 404cid iron block 230/246 2-7200 rpm 113lsa 90mm tb edelbrock pro flo xt intake trick flow 230 heads on it. Also an a2a intercooler on pump gas and e85 on high boost levels. O 9.25:1 cr maybe 9.5

 

Maybe 1100 crank hp but not rear wheel HP.. You better step up to an F1X. Most F1Rs are done by 950rwhp or so..(stick tranny) on pump gas/meth. Race fuel and an aggressive tune you can hit 1000 but... It's not often or common. Everything has to be maximized to the fullest.

You're gonna need more compression and more cam. Just put the X on it and be done.

 

Well I'm shorting for more the 1000k with a f1r buts it's on a gear drive. And more cubes and compression.

 

Ok gotcha but here's the thing. The f1x will not fit my car due to my fenders. See I have an 84 camaro and u cant cut em out . I might as well add more cubes loke a 427 or 434 and a bigger cam 235/251 113lsa .621/.621

 

The larger engine will be more efficient for sure, but the F1R is only going to flow so much air. The bigger engine would likely make similar power to your current combo, only you would see less boost.. The blower is the air flow bottle neck, not the engine...

There is definitely more extreme combos that make 1000+ with an F1R, but they are not your normal street cars.. Class race cars (like Renegade for example) may be using an F1R to fit in class rules and running high 4 sec 1/8 miles, (which is well over 1k hp) but they are doing a lot of tricks to get there.. Stuff that you wouldn't likely do on a street car. Custom volutes, gear drives, air to water intercooler(ice water), alcohol etc etc..


Remember it takes around 250 hp to run an F1R at max impeller speed at 24 psi... That's 250hp that's NOT going to the tires..

I wouldn't get too caught up in the dyno numbers.. A maxed F1R is enough to get a 3600lb street car in the 8s... If that's fast enough for you, you'll be happy with an F1R..

 

I guess it takes power to make power but I can live with that. Im wondering if you lose that much power how much are putting to the tires? My thing is I want to go the fastest I can with an a2a intercooler. Also there are turbo cars running fast if not faster with the exact kind of build i got goin on.

 

I'm ProCharger fan for sure, but you can make more power with a turbo. What I mean by that is, If you take a turbo the same size as the F1R. You will be able to move more air, because the turbo is able to spin WAY more impeller RPMs than the F1R can. The F1R max recommended impeller speed is 68K RPMs. Where as the turbo of the same size would probably be around 80-100K RPMs (just guessing). So it has the ability to move a lot more air.

Down side to the turbos though, they make a lot more heat and are more complex. I much rather have my ProCharger on my F-Body. If I had something that had a lot more under hood room, I wouldn't mind running a turbo setup.

 

Yes there are definitely turbo cars making more power and going faster then supercharged stuff.. The biggest advantage with the turbo is you don't have to use the crank (HP) to turn the impeller...That frees up TONS of HP... However there is no free lunch. If you don't get the turbine side and down pipe sized correctly, the back pressure you'll encounter will kill a ton of power as well.

Blower set ups are great where there is packaging issues.. Also IATs tend to be lower with centrifugal blower setups because there is no exhaust heat right beside the compressor.

Not going into the centrifugal vs turbo debate here.

As for your procharger questions, depending on how fast you want to go, you CAN get it done with a procharger. Just knowing its likely going to cost you more then an ebay turbo setup and know that you'll have to contend to the belt drive issues that can occur and blower drive parasitics.

If you're just chasing a dyno number, you're probably better off with turbos. IF you want a relatively simple and very reliable setup, centrifugal blowers work great, and they run decent at the track too..

As for mine, I made 900rwhp SAE when it had the stick tranny in it. That's with the F1R right at max impeller speed (69,120 for me), velocity stack on the blower and 17* timing. This is with a small 226/238 cam, stock ls6 intake. Around 22 psi of boost. 93 oct/lots of meth. With a bigger cam/better intake and more aggressive tune, I probably could have made 950 rwhp SAE but that would be about it with this blower IMOP.

I normally run(street setup) it thru the 4" inlet pipe/DP Big Mouth air filter and 15* timing, it makes around 830-840 rwhp like this.. I have trapped 151 mph at 3650lbs on this street setup.


An F1X would throw 200+rwhp on top of this setup faster then you could shake a stick at..

My best advice for you is buy the biggest and best belt drive setup you can for the blower... Aster bracket/10 rib/cog, whatever will fit... Really over engineer the belt drive. Also put the biggest, straightest air filter/air inlet pipe on it that you can fit. The F series blowers hate ANYTHING in front of the inlets, especially bends, even big smooth ones. Also F1Rs will create a lot of heat if you over spin them TOO hard... The hardest I would spin one would be 4.0" blower and 8" crank pulleys.... I actually only use a 4.25" blower pulley and I just exceed max impeller speed at 6800-6900 crank rpm.


Hope all this info helps

 

Well, if it didn't help him any, you sure did learnt me something! Appreciate the info.

I so wish I could run an X on my F-Body. I mean I'm sure I could with a lot of fab, machining, and fitting work. If I had a vertical mill at my disposal, I wouldn't mind giving it a shot.

 

MAN! I learned a lot myself from the both of u. I wish I could stick a X in my 3rd gen as well. Yeah I was goin to spin it hard anyway on e85 but its a street strip car and it wasnt goin to pushed hArd all the time. I thought heat issues were for turbos never thought a blower would create that much heat. Another thing is what determines the turbine side and downpipe sizes? Personally dyno numbers don't interest me but I dont want to leave out any power. I want to get the most out of my motor be it blower or turbo and the power adder be reliable responsive and efficient

 

In all honesty, you're going to get more power per dollar out of a turbo setup. ProChargers are expensive when you start turning the F1 and up series blowers ie; head unit cost, bracket setups

If your main goal is strip performance, I would probably lean more towards a turbo setup. Reason being you can run a big turbo, get awesome power, and at the strip you're no so concerned with lag or heat really.

I went ProCharger because 1) Main reason I love the sound, 2) on a car mainly driven on the street there is ton less heat created, 3) No lag to deal with on the street, and 4) simplicity on a 4th gen F-Body.

Just be honest with yourself about what you want to pay for. Because if you cheap out on the drive set up on the ProCharger, you will be fighting belt issue from day one. Then you will hate it!

 

cog drive!!!

 

Raise the static to high 10's and a little bigger cam. Should get you over 1000 with a stick. Auto's just chew up dyno numbers.

 

Btlbaby I agree with you I love that procharger sound as well. Theres nothing like it. I came across a guy who runs lsx true street and he designed a bracket for the f series that allows the head unit to fit 3rd gens. I googled procharged 3rd gen and he came up. Just not the x or 2 they are too big and hit the inner fenders. Again its like u im wanting a street strip car. So how's your blower motor on the street. Any heat issues? Also I seen guys who ran centris and turn around n go turbo

 

Sorry, didnt realize how old this original post was. Hope the info is still useful LOL


well I have right at 1015 RWHP with my F1R on an LS3 running 21 pounds of boost on E85 and Methanol injection on a 2010 Camaro. Pulley size is 4.25 on blower and this is MAXED out. I had what I believe to be the best tuner in the country Sam Miller over at www.advancedmodernperformance tune the car. The car makes this power starting at 6400 RPM and doesnt drop off even at 7400 RPM redline. This also tells me that it WONT make any more power even if I spin it faster since 7400 RPM doesnt make any more power than 6400 RPM.