PIc's For You Guys
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 1
From: Bellevue, Wa
LOL!!!!
Your right though J.
I don't know of anybody that has taken this setup to the track yet.
Fingers crossed for ya buddy!!!!!
I'll be hitting refresh on Friday night looking for your post
Your right though J.
I don't know of anybody that has taken this setup to the track yet.
Fingers crossed for ya buddy!!!!!
I'll be hitting refresh on Friday night looking for your post
I'm not insane...you're insane..... 
<-me chasing the time booth dude
I was going through the SDCE website, to make sure I didn't tension the belt wrong. And I noticed something. The s/c plate is on the wrong side of the pics. So I reviewed my pics and noticed my scroll is different from their pic. So I immediately doubted my work...thinking I mounted the s/c wrong somehow but nope, after referencing my install manual...I have it right they have it wrong??? I was wondering why my s/c serial number plate was giving me clearance issues and not them....here is a pic off their site.
The scroll goes toward the top of the radiator(right side up snail shell) the have it facing the bottom of the radiator in that pic(upside down snail shell)
Here is a pic of their s/c with the serial # plate on the other side of the s/c.
Its really not a big deal but I did have a problem with that plate and especially the little rivet that holds the plate on hitting the spring tensioner. I remedied it with the dremel, here is my "clearance":
Oh yeah they have two of my pics on their site
<-me chasing the time booth dudeI was going through the SDCE website, to make sure I didn't tension the belt wrong. And I noticed something. The s/c plate is on the wrong side of the pics. So I reviewed my pics and noticed my scroll is different from their pic. So I immediately doubted my work...thinking I mounted the s/c wrong somehow but nope, after referencing my install manual...I have it right they have it wrong??? I was wondering why my s/c serial number plate was giving me clearance issues and not them....here is a pic off their site.
The scroll goes toward the top of the radiator(right side up snail shell) the have it facing the bottom of the radiator in that pic(upside down snail shell)
Here is a pic of their s/c with the serial # plate on the other side of the s/c.
Its really not a big deal but I did have a problem with that plate and especially the little rivet that holds the plate on hitting the spring tensioner. I remedied it with the dremel, here is my "clearance":
Oh yeah they have two of my pics on their site
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 10,331
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Originally Posted by frcefed98
I'm not insane...you're insane..... <-me chasing the time booth dude
I was going through the SDCE website, to make sure I didn't tension the belt wrong. And I noticed something. The s/c plate is on the wrong side of the pics. So I reviewed my pics and noticed my scroll is different from their pic. So I immediately doubted my work...thinking I mounted the s/c wrong somehow but nope, after referencing my install manual...I have it right they have it wrong??? I was wondering why my s/c serial number plate was giving me clearance issues and not them....here is a pic off their site.
The scroll goes toward the top of the radiator(right side up snail shell) the have it facing the bottom of the radiator in that pic(upside down snail shell)
Here is a pic of their s/c with the serial # plate on the other side of the s/c.
Its really not a big deal but I did have a problem with that plate and especially the little rivet that holds the plate on hitting the spring tensioner. I remedied it with the dremel, here is my "clearance":
Oh yeah they have two of my pics on their site
<-me chasing the time booth dudeI was going through the SDCE website, to make sure I didn't tension the belt wrong. And I noticed something. The s/c plate is on the wrong side of the pics. So I reviewed my pics and noticed my scroll is different from their pic. So I immediately doubted my work...thinking I mounted the s/c wrong somehow but nope, after referencing my install manual...I have it right they have it wrong??? I was wondering why my s/c serial number plate was giving me clearance issues and not them....here is a pic off their site.
The scroll goes toward the top of the radiator(right side up snail shell) the have it facing the bottom of the radiator in that pic(upside down snail shell)
Here is a pic of their s/c with the serial # plate on the other side of the s/c.
Its really not a big deal but I did have a problem with that plate and especially the little rivet that holds the plate on hitting the spring tensioner. I remedied it with the dremel, here is my "clearance":
Oh yeah they have two of my pics on their site
SEE....... i told you it was hitting....duh...... you got its on the other side in there pics...........Ill be grinding and checking for clearences and alignment this afternoon when my new tensioner and too arrive....... then Friday ill be dyno tuning and heading to Baytown..HRP that evening for a little track testing on Nitto's and my stock 10 bolt...... thank god im trailoring it to Houston...... the 3 hr tow bill would kill me.
We will get it to work Jer......... Jer another question for you. Did you ever get your tanny rebuilt after that time it gave up the ghost on the dyno with the Cog's???? Just wondering what you did......Ill post up more this afternoon with pics and how it went. Im taking off work all the rest of the week to get this crap taken care of...... thank god i have 47 days onthe books...
Kyle
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 1
From: Bellevue, Wa
SD- If you read this I have a question. in the last pic above. the little rubber piece in the bottom of the tensioner. Is that needed for operation? The cars I have been involved with we took it out in order to get the tensioner tool in there. Should it be put back?
Originally Posted by 1dirtyZ
to tell you the truth forcefed, i have no clue what you said? what do you mean by "scroll"? and what is the arrow indicating?
BTW those arrow pics are not mine, like I said above they are off SDCE website. Those arrows are for a visual on where to put the belt adjustment tool that SDCE drew on there.......
But if someone didn't understand what I was talking about, thats why I put another phrase in >(these things)<
The phrase was "upside down snail shell", Now can you visualize how that would look??
The way our S/C's are mounted on the bracket is "RIGHT SIDE UP SNAIL SHELL".....Visualize or just look at your ATI manual, crawl under the car or reference one of the pics that I have post(not the sdce ones tho)
Kyle, so you had trouble with the samething huh...spring tensioner hitting the plate? Didn't they believe you???
It amazing that little serial plate would get in the way that much, but when the clearances are tight you need all the space you can get.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: northeast
Originally Posted by Blackbird
SD- If you read this I have a question. in the last pic above. the little rubber piece in the bottom of the tensioner. Is that needed for operation? The cars I have been involved with we took it out in order to get the tensioner tool in there. Should it be put back?
I'm thinking that Scott's pics were just for reference to show the tool clearly...I'll double check on that...it would've been hard for us to take clear pics from underneath the car upsdie down and whatnot so he did it out of the car...stay tuned!
SDCE,
Just giving the other members a heads up when they run into this problem. If they call you guys at SDCE and tell you that its hitting the plate and you take a look at your mock up, you won't see what they are talking about. So now you guys will know that the spring tensioner hits the serial # plate and can either dremel the spring tensioners before shipping or add it as a note into your instructions that it might hit and the spring tensioner housing and the piece of metal that sticks out the bottom of it also needs to be grinded alittle past that rubber dust cover.
trying to help
Just giving the other members a heads up when they run into this problem. If they call you guys at SDCE and tell you that its hitting the plate and you take a look at your mock up, you won't see what they are talking about. So now you guys will know that the spring tensioner hits the serial # plate and can either dremel the spring tensioners before shipping or add it as a note into your instructions that it might hit and the spring tensioner housing and the piece of metal that sticks out the bottom of it also needs to be grinded alittle past that rubber dust cover.
trying to help Last edited by frcefed98; May 25, 2004 at 03:17 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Ok Just got off the phone with Scott and Wendy, The best thing to do to bypass this problem, is to mount the spring tensioner on the bracket BEFORE you mount the s/c to the bracket. That way you can set the tension on the spring tensioner without having the s/c in the way. Also have, I mentioned this a few post back, make sure the idler(old ati tensioner) is loose and all the way bottomed out, this will give you room to move the spring tensioner around when putting it on. Remember mount the s/c last and leave the belt off of the spring tensioner to allow the belt to go on the s/c pulley when mounting it back up.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: northeast
Originally Posted by frcefed98
Ok Just got off the phone with Scott and Wendy, The best thing to do to bypass this problem, is to mount the spring tensioner on the bracket BEFORE you mount the s/c to the bracket. That way you can set the tension on the spring tensioner without having the s/c in the way. Also have, I mentioned this a few post back, make sure the idler(old ati tensioner) is loose and all the way bottomed out, this will give you room to move the spring tensioner around when putting it on. Remember mount the s/c last and leave the belt off of the spring tensioner to allow the belt to go on the s/c pulley when mounting it back up.
I'll be updating the instructions this afternoon to try and clear this up...I may use more of your pics!
Have a great day and keep us posted on your progress!
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 10,331
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Originally Posted by SDCE
Well said Jeremy,
I'll be updating the instructions this afternoon to try and clear this up...I may use more of your pics!
Have a great day and keep us posted on your progress!
I'll be updating the instructions this afternoon to try and clear this up...I may use more of your pics!
Have a great day and keep us posted on your progress!
i saw this and dont need a call i understand.... unless u want to call......thanks wendy for calling earlier. Awsome customer service.....Kyle
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 11,603
Likes: 0
From: Chi-Town, IL
I'm sure something could be worked out if Scott got to take a look at the COG stuff overall with the belt and try different idlers and different size COG tooth counts and different sized belt lengths....Its all in the R&D
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Port Jervis, NY
Originally Posted by frcefed98
The best thing to do to bypass this problem, is to mount the spring tensioner on the bracket BEFORE you mount the s/c to the bracket. That way you can set the tension on the spring tensioner without having the s/c in the way. .
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 10,331
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, TX
Originally Posted by tltdLS1
Man I wish Kyle and I would have thought of that Friday instead of gettting in a hurry and breaking s%&t, oh well you live and learn especially when it comes to the LS1 and FI.
Scott doesnt like Cogs..... he says they are to hard on the crank of the motor and that we dont need them to make the power and tun the times we are wanting.....
Kyle
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 11,603
Likes: 0
From: Chi-Town, IL
Thats what he told me as well, I'm confident in the 8 rib setup.....
I just wish it wouldn't take the us postal service a week to get my bracket to SD when I paid for a 2 day priority.......
Bastards
I just wish it wouldn't take the us postal service a week to get my bracket to SD when I paid for a 2 day priority.......
Bastards
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Port Jervis, NY
Originally Posted by BIGBOS
Thats what he told me as well, I'm confident in the 8 rib setup.....
I just wish it wouldn't take the us postal service a week to get my bracket to SD when I paid for a 2 day priority.......
Bastards
I just wish it wouldn't take the us postal service a week to get my bracket to SD when I paid for a 2 day priority.......
Bastards
Bos, I feel your pain man I have often found myself in the same situation when dealing with the infamous postal service, look at it this way at least they didn't loose your crap like they do most of mine.
Originally Posted by SDCE
Well said Jeremy,
I'll be updating the instructions this afternoon to try and clear this up...I may use more of your pics!
Have a great day and keep us posted on your progress!
I'll be updating the instructions this afternoon to try and clear this up...I may use more of your pics!
Have a great day and keep us posted on your progress!
Not a problem, I just hope I am not getting in the way. I just like to let everyone know what to expect or what to look for when buying something for their LS1 F-body......we got to band together to stay ahead of the competition.
Feel free to use any pic I posted, if you need more at a certain angle let me know, I will shoot some more if need be.Bos, did you have it in a USPS Priority box? If not did you label it with a priority label?? I do all my shipping with the USPS because they get stuff to the place I sent it in three days or less everytime....maybe the box ripped open and the postal service had to fix it?