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I've read the 0411 is the one to go with so I bought one here in the classifieds. I think the gist is no matter what computer you use, don't just take someone's flash file and just upload it to your PCM. The Pro tuners probably have the knowledge regarding which ones are safe to do so but for "joe 6 packs" like myself, I'll just go the safe route till I'm in that arena.
Originally Posted by players 91
Thanks a lot for the reply. I was thinking of going with a mail order tune for starters, but with a few how to posts I've read ( yours & tuning for dummies) it seems like it's doable with some help. Maybe not. What's got me confused is the how to I read on tg.o for building the harness said it didn't matter what computer you had (as long as it's not a 98 model). Re pin the harness for the 411 and reflash the computer for that. Maybe I should just buy a 411.
I've read the 0411 is the one to go with so I bought one here in the classifieds. I think the gist is no matter what computer you use, don't just take someone's flash file and just upload it to your PCM. The Pro tuners probably have the knowledge regarding which ones are safe to do so but for "joe 6 packs" like myself, I'll just go the safe route till I'm in that arena.
Got ya. I've read that before. Not to take somebody's bin from the bank on hpt's forums and think it's good for your combo. There's no tuners with in 1000 miles of here so I have to go mail order. I thought from your posts I could start with a stock 99 -02 din , ad fuel for safety , make the changes as in this how to, data log, make changes, data log and so no until things looked good on the wide band. I'm sure there's a lot more to it than that though. Again, thanks for the info.
Of course, the dyno would be ideal but guys like you and I, typically, will take the approach you describe. Put in a safe baseline, drive it around while logging. Use the Histogram to correct normal driving VE settings, using the knock sensors to bar us from adding too much timing. Also, RTT (Real timing tuning) is available so we can alter fuel/spark while the motor is actually running, then copy those articulated settings to the flash and upload them.
After that, some brief/limited aggressive throttle to see if the fueling/knock sensor levels are happy and incrementally creep up on our best settings. As we grow more confident, raise the RPM levels a bit more, re-evaluate and adjust what's needed. I'm fortunate that I'll have a pro dyno tune it once I get all the pieces in place, but it's still a 45 minute drive to his shop on a 75mph freeway.
Originally Posted by players 91
Got ya. I've read that before. Not to take somebody's bin from the bank on hpt's forums and think it's good for your combo. There's no tuners with in 1000 miles of here so I have to go mail order. I thought from your posts I could start with a stock 99 -02 din , ad fuel for safety , make the changes as in this how to, data log, make changes, data log and so no until things looked good on the wide band. I'm sure there's a lot more to it than that though. Again, thanks for the info.
The 4896 is virtually identical to the 0411.
I'm running it with no issues.
I started with a 99 Camaro manual trans unit. Told it to be a 5.3 and proceeded.
I tried to be tricky and change a bunch of the items in the tune to match 5.3 truck tune. That was a mistake and ended up changing them back to the orig Camaro tune.
I'm running 3bar OS and RTT is not available for it.
Ron,
As always, thanks for the input and clarification. It's always better to have real world experiences contrasting printed material. Do you know why people keep saying the 0411 is the best? Just curious. I took them at their word in since I don't, at this point, have anything personal to compare.
Am I to take from your last note that when one elects to utilize the 3 bar Operating System(OS) that the RTT feature is defeated? If so, that's unfortunate.
Thanks again!
Dave
Originally Posted by RonSSNova
The 4896 is virtually identical to the 0411.
I'm running it with no issues.
I started with a 99 Camaro manual trans unit. Told it to be a 5.3 and proceeded.
I tried to be tricky and change a bunch of the items in the tune to match 5.3 truck tune. That was a mistake and ended up changing them back to the orig Camaro tune.
I'm running 3bar OS and RTT is not available for it.
Ron,
As always, thanks for the input and clarification. It's always better to have real world experiences contrasting printed material. Do you know why people keep saying the 0411 is the best? Just curious. I took them at their word in since I don't, at this point, have anything personal to compare.
Am I to take from your last note that when one elects to utilize the 3 bar Operating System(OS) that the RTT feature is defeated? If so, that's unfortunate.
Thanks again!
Dave
Just a question on map sensors. From what I've read the idea I've gotten is the higher bar sensor you run, the less accurate they are, more info to process. If your not running over 14.7 psi use 1 bar, 14.7 - 29.4 for 2 bar, and 29.4 - 44 psi for 3 bar. Is this right ? As far as I know I'll never run over 15 psi so 2 bar would be best for me.
Just a question on map sensors. From what I've read the idea I've gotten is the higher bar sensor you run, the less accurate they are, more info to process. If your not running over 14.7 psi use 1 bar, 14.7 - 29.4 for 2 bar, and 29.4 - 44 psi for 3 bar. Is this right ? As far as I know I'll never run over 15 psi so 2 bar would be best for me.
Ron , thanks for the info. Is it correct from your post that I can put a 411 file on my 4896 pcm? Looking at the pin outs again, the main difference is a few injectors and a few coils are reversed ( inj 1 then 3 is 3 then 1) from 1 computer to another. That's just an example, not really the right #, but you get the gist.
I'm sure different tuners will have valid reasons to go with one threshold over another. Since 1 bar is for Normally aspirated cars, I would think that, yes, if you're only boosting a moderate amount, you could stick with that and still use the MAF as well. Dan states this in his book. However, he does go on further to say that for his case study 9psi turbo car in the book, he wanted to go to the 2 bar Speed Density for better control of fueling. I'm probably spoiled but 9 psi and below seem timid I've ran my LT1 at 21 psi many times so anything less than 15psi is just not exciting any more
On the less accurate/more info to process aspect, I'm led to believe that these 0411, etc PCM's are capable of administering fuel/spark very capably. I know on my LT1 PCM, what you're saying was absolutely true when going to 2 bar. You had to work within the 100 KPA definition so basically, your 20 to 50 KPA cells were off boost, 55 to 100KPA cells were boost fueling so you had rather large jumps in values in the VE. Add to that the slower processors.
Originally Posted by players 91
Just a question on map sensors. From what I've read the idea I've gotten is the higher bar sensor you run, the less accurate they are, more info to process. If your not running over 14.7 psi use 1 bar, 14.7 - 29.4 for 2 bar, and 29.4 - 44 psi for 3 bar. Is this right ? As far as I know I'll never run over 15 psi so 2 bar would be best for me.
Ron, I've been trying to locate a notice anywhere that states the RTT is disabled in 3 bar but can't so far. The following is from the HPTuners Help screens on RTT. Perhaps when they put this up, the 3 bar hadn't been enabled?
RTT was not available in my PCM for 3BAR. I really don't know why?
"Manage Attachments" does not work for me on this site either......F***
But as you can see, 3 BAR shows no RTT for me.
However, my C5 Corvette, which uses the same 4896 PCM but with a DBW Auto trans OS does show it as available. So who knows? I'm sure someone does......
It is true that you lose resolution with the higher pressure MAP sensors. But this is also dependent on what OS you are adding 2 or 3 bar to.
I get a nice large VE table with my setup and 3 BAR. I converted a friends OS in his 03 flex fuel PCM to 2 BAR and the VE table is pathetically small. It ended up the same size as the orig VE, but covers to 210 KPA. It doesn't even go below 30kpa. I think it's going to be a bitch to tune.
Someone must know which PCM's update the best to a custom OS. I don't know where that info is. My buddies BTW is a red/green unit....best to be avoided I think. Sadly, you get to burn the credits to find out.
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Jan 13, 2015 at 03:50 PM.
Just a question on map sensors. From what I've read the idea I've gotten is the higher bar sensor you run, the less accurate they are, more info to process. If your not running over 14.7 psi use 1 bar, 14.7 - 29.4 for 2 bar, and 29.4 - 44 psi for 3 bar. Is this right ? As far as I know I'll never run over 15 psi so 2 bar would be best for me.
A 1 bar sensor is what we have for NA. A 2 bar is for up to 15 psi of boost. A 3 bar is for up to 30 psi of boost.
Ron
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I've ran my LT1 at 21 psi many times so anything less than 15psi is just not exciting any more 
