But there's no bolts nor instructions on how this bolts together. Does in come with any when new? I've scanned and searched for a document or .pdf but have yet to find any.
Thanks,
Dave

 

I'd sent a msg to Huron and they, being good guys, sent these pic's. This helps but it looks like from these pictures, they only use the long 2 hole piece and the galvanized spacer. My kit has a 3rd piece with 3 bolt holes. I'll send a picture of the 3 pieces shortly. Here's what Huron sent me...(I've added the circles for emphasis, plus I have a question on one)

 

Believe that is your idler pulley.. Looks like hey just moved it up with a custom bracket.

 

After looking at some pictures for awhile, I believe I know what the 3 pieces in the kit are for.
Two bolt hole brace - Attaches to the passenger head on one end, the alternator on the other end.

Silver tube - Spacer between the low alternator attachment point and the head

Three bolt hole brace - Mounts down low on the drivers side, assuming where the Alternator used to be and the idler/belt tensioner rides on that.

I have to measure the holes bolt sizes and length and go get them.

Thanks!

 

I used one on my build. The ac compressor bolts will work if your not using them.

Be prepared, it's a piece of ****. I know they are a good company and I wont take that away from them but it was a horrible design.. When I posted it on my build, 2 people sent a pm telling be about it. Sure enough, when I got it bolted up, it was crooked as hell on the idler pulley. Just rolling the car over in an attempt to start it would jump 2 ribs on the belt off the crank. One guy said he cut and welded his to make it fit. Another said use a huge pry bar yo get it aligned. My computer bricked so I sent it to a local guy to have a 99+ PCM and be repinned. Guess what else he is going to try and fix??

 

Didn't realize there were issues. I bought one used off a member here and it's been great so far.

OP if you need more pics I can take some tomorrow. Or check my build thread also. I ended up swapping the belt tensione pulley to one a slightly larger diameter and smooth.

 

That's exactly what I did Kyle about swapping the pulley to a larger one. It also had to be smooth because it swaps sides of the belt.

I don't know, maybe me and those other guys caught a bad batch? It was visual though as soon as I connected the bracket/tensioner to the block. It was very "twisted" leaning more towards the drivers side. I would post a pic but my car isn't here.

 

Yikes! I'll make sure the alignment is spot on. Thanks for the warning!

 

I'm still not extra clear on how the thing is supposed to be setup. I sent an email to Huron and they responded with a customers engine that had somewhat of portrayal of the alternator side. But it didn't address the idler pulley setup. It's my impression that the long two bolt hole brace attaches to the passenger head on the outer most/highest 10mm bolt hole. The other bolt hole in the Alternator passes thru a spacer before going to the head too. But immediately, it's apparent that's not going to fly with the fabbed valve covers because the plastic vent housing on the back of the alternator is glaringly in the way. I took the plastic cowl off the back of the alternator just to see if it was possible in any way to mount the Alternator with this setup. While it could barely fit, the exposed terminals on the Alternator were right upon the oil fill cap of the valve covers. So much so that it would be almost impossible to remove/install the oil fill cap. Next, my FAST rails have -8AN fittings all round. Maybe I could still install the -8 AN connector next to the alternator, but I'm not betting money.
Finally, where the heck does the idler/belt tensioner bolt up? Facing the motor, I thought it would be on the bottom/lower right of the block. There's one 10mm bolt hole there. I assume that the other bolt used in the Huron bracket is one of the timing cover bolts. The Huron bracket has three holes and one of the spacers is shorter than the other two, I'm presuming to account for the thickness of the timing cover. I wish I could see and existing setup on an engine on an engine stand.

I've done some research/looking around and it appears that with this kit, I might have to give up the fabbed valve covers to get the alternator to clear. Even with that, I've read that some guys have had to try to re-clock their oil fill tube (one guy said he just took the tube off and put the cap directly on the oil fill hole).

Is there a relocation kit you know of that works with the fabbed valve covers, is short enough to clear the stock 4th Gen hood and can be out of the way of my hotside?

 

I cant help you with any if the questions regarding the other kits. I will say that the back of my alternator had to be cut to clear the head. Just the plastic piece had to be trimmed.

If you'll look at the lower bracket, only two of the holes will line up with the holes in the block. Thr only hole that's left, I went to the hardware store and grabbed a bolt, couple washers and a nut for to hold the tensioner. Hope you have better luck with yours than I did mine. It's kinda odd to me though that HSP is in this section daily and not commented on thus post..

 

I don't know how well you can see this but the lower circle is the ONLY existing bolt hole down there on my 5.3 block.

 

I should have my car back in th not couple days. If you've not figured it out by then, I'll post a pic. I believe their is 2 holes in my block though?

 

That was my impression too. THat some blocks have the two bolt holes. I've seen posts where guys said the drilled and tapped the second bolt hole but I always assumed there was room on that metal ear on the block where the current bolt hole is located. There's definitely no room there. I'd have to drill into the waterjacket/cylinder to put a second bolt hole in there. Not doing that
Thanks for helping.