LSA Crankshaft
LSA Crankshaft Anyone here run a LSA crankshaft? They are suppose to be a forged factory crank and hold up better than the cast steel ones. Ive been told they are a "much better crank" than say the K1 or comparable low dollar forged cranks. I know the Flange bolt pattern is different but wasnt sure if anyone ever nailed down wether one was better than the other.
Last edited by oscs; Apr 23, 2015 at 04:13 PM.
Question is, is it better than a K1 or compstar etc. I had a discussion with one of the biggest names in LS engine building this evening and he swears that the GM LSA crank is 10X better than the the K1 etc.. Says he always finds K1 and compstars out of spec and GM seems to have a better track record. I know they are made in China but I don't know if I buy that.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 577
Likes: 1
From: League City, Tx
Compstars are ****..I'll tell you that.
I'd trust the lsa before the Compstar. I have no factual data for you tho.
One thing I have figured out is, don't believe everything you read on the net about HP handling capabilities..lol..
I JUST got my Dragonslayer shipped to me after waiting 16 weeks for it.
I'd trust the lsa before the Compstar. I have no factual data for you tho.
One thing I have figured out is, don't believe everything you read on the net about HP handling capabilities..lol..
I JUST got my Dragonslayer shipped to me after waiting 16 weeks for it.
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9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
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From: Norn Iron
There was a thread recently where a guy had broken the LSA crank, and pretty sure someone else chimed in the same
Plus dont forget they're 8 bolt.
If you're buying outright, just buy a new forged crank.
My last crank was a compstar, not a thing wrong with it, still have it here. Only changed to a shorter stroke.
Plus dont forget they're 8 bolt.
If you're buying outright, just buy a new forged crank.
My last crank was a compstar, not a thing wrong with it, still have it here. Only changed to a shorter stroke.
There was a thread recently where a guy had broken the LSA crank, and pretty sure someone else chimed in the same
Plus dont forget they're 8 bolt.
If you're buying outright, just buy a new forged crank.
My last crank was a compstar, not a thing wrong with it, still have it here. Only changed to a shorter stroke.
Plus dont forget they're 8 bolt.
If you're buying outright, just buy a new forged crank.
My last crank was a compstar, not a thing wrong with it, still have it here. Only changed to a shorter stroke.
Correct me if I am wrong, but Compstar got a bad name when, a long time ago, for LS engines, they were using a non 4340 crank positioned where the compstar crank is currently.
It is a chinese forging just like Eagle or K1. All three good to support more than a stock crank can which we know will last above 1000hp for a while.
Dragonslayer and Magnum cranks are the same damn thing also, save some rounnding on the counter weights I believe.
Lunati Pro is another great crank option if spending the money.
I went with a K1. Heard their finishing machining was better than Eagle and low and behold they forgot to machine the step to allow the timing gear to slide on...
It is a chinese forging just like Eagle or K1. All three good to support more than a stock crank can which we know will last above 1000hp for a while.
Dragonslayer and Magnum cranks are the same damn thing also, save some rounnding on the counter weights I believe.
Lunati Pro is another great crank option if spending the money.
I went with a K1. Heard their finishing machining was better than Eagle and low and behold they forgot to machine the step to allow the timing gear to slide on...
Today i went and dropped off my crank for polishing. While i was there i spoke with the owner and guy who actually does the polishing. This guy does ALL of HKE, LME, G&G and pretty much every major LS engine building shops in the south.
On his shelf he had probably 30 boxes of callies cranks that where brand new. All of these need to be worked he said. He said out of the 30 or so he does a month in the last 4 years he has seen ONLY 5 that have com eout of the box and were to spec.
With that said, When i asked him what would he suggest i use for a forged stock stroke crank, He pointed to the short nose LSA and said with out a doubt that is the one he would use.
He also said the callies **** was ok but always needs to be worked a little in order to be acceptable.
On his shelf he had probably 30 boxes of callies cranks that where brand new. All of these need to be worked he said. He said out of the 30 or so he does a month in the last 4 years he has seen ONLY 5 that have com eout of the box and were to spec.
With that said, When i asked him what would he suggest i use for a forged stock stroke crank, He pointed to the short nose LSA and said with out a doubt that is the one he would use.
He also said the callies **** was ok but always needs to be worked a little in order to be acceptable.
I'd use the LSA over the China stuff like compstar,k1, eagle since the price is right and probably a similar product
But I don't see the point in paying a little less, but then pay for balancing and later on do it again when you could buy a legitimate crank like a dragon or lunati pro from the get go. And balance it once and keep it forever m 2cents
But I don't see the point in paying a little less, but then pay for balancing and later on do it again when you could buy a legitimate crank like a dragon or lunati pro from the get go. And balance it once and keep it forever m 2cents
I wonder why they went with a undercut radius.. Doesn't make sense to me. Although im not to worried about that since this is a turbo car. If i had an F1X it might be different. The thing that worries me about dropping $1400 on a DS crank is i feel like im going to grow out of this motor at some point and step up to at least a 4.0" stroke at some point. I dont want to be married to such a pricey crank.