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05 colorado SBE 6.0/C480/4l80e 9.78@143 foot brake 3850lbs

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Old 03-20-2016, 06:31 PM
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:31 PM
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:10 AM
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Nice to see an 04 motor with the floating rods. They are floaters right? I know there were some engines that had the "I beam" rods but were still a press fit deal.

My 02 LQ9 had the floating I beams thankfully.
Old 03-21-2016, 08:36 AM
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yeah its the ls2 style rotating assembly floating and the stronger rods
Old 03-21-2016, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by denmah
yeah its the ls2 style rotating assembly floating and the stronger rods
Hey denmah, upon your tear down and rebuild did you happen to notice the rod orientation? As far as I know on those type rods the dimples on the rod all face towards the back of the engine. I think in your video when you show the little dot on the piston that faces forward, the dimple on the rod faces toward the rear. Just want to make sure because I have an engine to put together, it is my first LS build and I paid no attention whatsoever to rod orientation when I tore the thing down well over a year ago. Also, it is an L76 engine and has the floating wristpin rods and all. I think the big end of the rod is slightly different on either side of the rod as well, right where the cap is cracked from the factory. I think the side facing the front of the engine is bigger than the side facing the rear. Hope this makes sense?
Old 03-22-2016, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ringgold
Hey denmah, upon your tear down and rebuild did you happen to notice the rod orientation? As far as I know on those type rods the dimples on the rod all face towards the back of the engine. I think in your video when you show the little dot on the piston that faces forward, the dimple on the rod faces toward the rear. Just want to make sure because I have an engine to put together, it is my first LS build and I paid no attention whatsoever to rod orientation when I tore the thing down well over a year ago. Also, it is an L76 engine and has the floating wristpin rods and all. I think the big end of the rod is slightly different on either side of the rod as well, right where the cap is cracked from the factory. I think the side facing the front of the engine is bigger than the side facing the rear. Hope this makes sense?
Typically there is a chamfer (fillet) on the big end of the rod. You want that to face toward the counter weight. The chamfer on the rods on the journal should face away from each other. That is to accommodate the small radius on the journal corner left from machining.


Old 03-22-2016, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ringgold
Hey denmah, upon your tear down and rebuild did you happen to notice the rod orientation? As far as I know on those type rods the dimples on the rod all face towards the back of the engine. I think in your video when you show the little dot on the piston that faces forward, the dimple on the rod faces toward the rear. Just want to make sure because I have an engine to put together, it is my first LS build and I paid no attention whatsoever to rod orientation when I tore the thing down well over a year ago. Also, it is an L76 engine and has the floating wristpin rods and all. I think the big end of the rod is slightly different on either side of the rod as well, right where the cap is cracked from the factory. I think the side facing the front of the engine is bigger than the side facing the rear. Hope this makes sense?
I have an 05 lq4 apart right now, just looked & the dimple on all the rods
are facing away from the dot on the piston. So yes they would face the rear
of the engine.
Old 03-22-2016, 11:18 PM
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:36 PM
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:45 AM
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High speed through the filler parts of assembly and so some detail for bearing clearance, oil pump assembly, maybe some torque specs throughout. What ever it ends up being we will all watch.
Old 03-23-2016, 01:18 AM
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I like the high speed build. :thumbsup:
Old 03-23-2016, 05:54 AM
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Hell yes. This video is great.
Your voice over with the music is cool.
Old 03-23-2016, 01:32 PM
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I thought you are suppose to set up a spring to the spec'd height that the spring manufacturer supplies with the springs.

I'm so clueless here . I plan on changing out my stock L92 intake valves (30K miles LY6 engine) for LS3 hollow stem valves. Do I need to do anything besides lapping the valves? FWIW Stock VVT cam and springs.

thanks,
Jim
Old 03-23-2016, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
I thought you are suppose to set up a spring to the spec'd height that the spring manufacturer supplies with the springs.

I'm so clueless here . I plan on changing out my stock L92 intake valves (30K miles LY6 engine) for LS3 hollow stem valves. Do I need to do anything besides lapping the valves? FWIW Stock VVT cam and springs.

thanks,
Jim
You are. Even without shiming those springs are going to be way better than stock. If you are runing a mild cam 99% of the time it won't matter.
Old 03-23-2016, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyrperformance
High speed through the filler parts of assembly and so some detail for bearing clearance, oil pump assembly, maybe some torque specs throughout. What ever it ends up being we will all watch.
You really should think about what you just said....and the thread you posted it in.

Torque specs? We don't need no stinkin' torque spec's.

Old 03-24-2016, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
You really should think about what you just said....and the thread you posted it in.

Torque specs? We don't need no stinkin' torque spec's.

Clearly using precise German tq specs... goodentight!
Old 03-24-2016, 02:06 PM
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i believe we covered the tq spec's brap, dinks, and brap brap when i did the rear building video
Old 03-24-2016, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by denmah
i believe we covered the tq spec's brap, dinks, and brap brap when i did the rear building video
Can't get anymore precise than that!


The high speed vids are pretty cool but half the reason I watch your vids is for the interim commentary
Old 03-24-2016, 10:08 PM
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I've never tried oven cleaner on heads before, but have had AWESOME results using Aircraft Paint Stripper on carbon deposits and such. If you try it, do not get the spray, get the jel in the can.

Thanks for all the good info over the years Matt.
Old 03-25-2016, 12:09 AM
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The bad part about the oven cleaner is it will turn the aluminum a nasty gray color instead of being bright silver. It works great though.


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