MMS Pulley, Belt Snapped
Tighten the belt so it would twist 90 degrees.
Took it for a test drive, was able to hit 6-7#
After the 3rd run. Belt was shredded. I made sure I installed the ATI pulley the correct way. Did I tighten it too tight?
Last edited by Ed Blown Vert; Jun 6, 2004 at 08:31 PM.
Tighten the belt so it would twist 90 degrees.
Took it for a test drive, was able to hit 6-7#
After the 3rd run. Belt snapped. I made sure I installed the ATI pulley the correct way. Did I tighten it too tight?
Just check the tightness of the belt..... it might of been to tight.
Kyle
But I think the part number is 4060407I will try getting another one and not tighten it as tight.
Anything else that could shred it? I am pretty sure I got the crank bolt tight. Busted my Flex-Handle
Last edited by Ed Blown Vert; Jun 6, 2004 at 08:31 PM.
Mark
Last edited by Ed Blown Vert; Jun 7, 2004 at 10:06 AM.
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Also, when you put a new belt on, tighten it where you can bend it about 90 degrees or so with you rfingers, then run it for 5 minutes or so. Stop the car. Tighten it the same way, again. Drive it a bit... only WOT for a little, a couple times. When you get home, tighten it once more before you start trouncing on it.
When I've had a belt shred to pieces, it was because of alignment. But, I could see abnormal wear before hand. Later, I saw the belt was actually hitting the outer lip of the idler (bracket side).
Also, I had to space my MMS pulley by one washer, which tells me the thickness was slightly less at the bolt-on point than the ATI pulley. On hte flip side, I had to re-align the pulleys by spacing my SC bracket with washers when I installed the Superdamper.
Finally, try Goodyear Gatorback (not to fix your problem, just for longevity in general). Those are the toughest belts I've used.
Any spacing I have done has been with the bracket and supercharger pulley.
Even though I had the shifts set @ 6200.I am going to double-check EDIT, and set the shifts to 6000. I would rather bring boost in sooner and not shift so high.
Make sure your RPM AND your MPH thresholds are reached for your desired shiftpoints (both are required before shift occurs).
If you set the MPH thresholds quite low, all you have to worry about is setting the RPM thresholds to fine-tune your shiftpoints. Start at around 200 to 300 RPM's lower than where you want it to shift the A4.
Hope that helps.
Tighten the belt last night drove it for a few. Tighten it again.
Let it sit overnight, drove it in the morning. Tighten it again.
WOT blast and ate another belt. Argggg!!
I was hoping to get this to work before my Fri dyno. Guess I will be going back to the stock pulley.
Last edited by Ed Blown Vert; Jun 7, 2004 at 03:33 PM.
I shredded one before I aligned my Superdamper. It was literally link a tiger raked it to shreds. Once I got it aligned, it has run fine. If you can eyeball a misalignment, it definitely needs work.

Don't rush it. That's the worst thiing you can do. I know; I've been there. I disregarded my own advice and did exactly the thing you just did. I went back and at least got what I needed to align it correctly.
I was able to shim it pretty accurately by making sure it was running perpendicular across the idler. At first, mine was touching the lip of the idler. I couldn't tell after install, but I could tell when it was cranked and running.
I had to get the idler off my alternator belt. Then, since my Superdamper/ATI 8-Rib was a tad farther out, I had to move the bracket out that much AND shim the SC pulley back into alignment with the CP.

Since I need the car to get to work. I will have to put back the stock ATI CP till I can figure out how to fix it. Unless I can do it tonight. I just don't understand why the stock CP worked fine. Unless it sticks out further.



