Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Just installed my MMS pulley with the ATI 4.10 pulley.
Tighten the belt so it would twist 90 degrees.
Took it for a test drive, was able to hit 6-7#
After the 3rd run. Belt was shredded. I made sure I installed the ATI pulley the correct way. Did I tighten it too tight?

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

I did that before with my stock motor and the 4" blower pulley..... @ 130 mph.... i wenty back and picked up the belt and took it back and got a new one.......... i was seeing 11 psi with a baby can and LT's........
Just check the tightness of the belt..... it might of been to tight.
Kyle

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Belt was shredded. But I think the part number is 4060407
I will try getting another one and not tighten it as tight.

Anything else that could shred it? I am pretty sure I got the crank bolt tight. Busted my Flex-Handle

BlwnTA

iTrader: (18)

Is it shredded or ripped in half. If it shredded, likely it was a little loose and the set-up spun faster than the belt. I lived that deal for a while before I went to the Cog R&D program. You may want to pick your boost level and order a Reichard Racing Ultragrip Pulley. I made 12PSI with no slip on an MMS and 3.5 Ultragrip.

Mark

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Opps, it was shredded. Pieces were everywhere.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I installed another belt. But it looks like the MMS pulley sits deeper in the crank. Making the alignment of the belt off. Any suggestion to lining them up??

BIGBOS

I don't think there is a way to shim out the crank pulley, usually you have to space out the blower by putting spacers on the standoffs

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Ya, I wouldn't want to touch the CP. But I guess I will have to grind off some of the standoffs.

Is the MMS CP a different depth than the ATI CP??

Black LS1 T/A

Definitely check the alignment between pulleys.

Also, when you put a new belt on, tighten it where you can bend it about 90 degrees or so with you rfingers, then run it for 5 minutes or so. Stop the car. Tighten it the same way, again. Drive it a bit... only WOT for a little, a couple times. When you get home, tighten it once more before you start trouncing on it.

When I've had a belt shred to pieces, it was because of alignment. But, I could see abnormal wear before hand. Later, I saw the belt was actually hitting the outer lip of the idler (bracket side).

Also, I had to space my MMS pulley by one washer, which tells me the thickness was slightly less at the bolt-on point than the ATI pulley. On hte flip side, I had to re-align the pulleys by spacing my SC bracket with washers when I installed the Superdamper.

Finally, try Goodyear Gatorback (not to fix your problem, just for longevity in general). Those are the toughest belts I've used.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

You didn't have an issue with a washer between the MMS pulley and stock damper? What size is the washer?

Black LS1 T/A

I did not put a washer between the damper and the CP. Sorry... I just read what I wrote and it does sound that way. I put an extra washer on the bolt to keep it from bottoming out.

Any spacing I have done has been with the bracket and supercharger pulley.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Whew, I didn't want to put a washer there.

I may have to grind the standoffs. Thanks.

BIGBOS

Be careful grinding, if you are uneven your right back in the same boat, even if its (thousandths) of an inch off

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I am almost tempted to install the stock ATI CP back on.

Maybe I will work on the tension first. I just don't want to tighten it too tight.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

According to EFI, on the runs I torn the belt. I touched the rev limiter @ 6800. Even though I had the shifts set @ 6200.

I am going to double-check EDIT, and set the shifts to 6000. I would rather bring boost in sooner and not shift so high.

Black LS1 T/A

I have found that the higher my boost, the faster the engine will rev, the more it will overshoot the shift points.

Make sure your RPM AND your MPH thresholds are reached for your desired shiftpoints (both are required before shift occurs).

If you set the MPH thresholds quite low, all you have to worry about is setting the RPM thresholds to fine-tune your shiftpoints. Start at around 200 to 300 RPM's lower than where you want it to shift the A4.

Hope that helps.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

I got the shifts down to 6200. Weird that I had to change them. Ran these shift points on a 150 shot.

Tighten the belt last night drove it for a few. Tighten it again.
Let it sit overnight, drove it in the morning. Tighten it again.

WOT blast and ate another belt. Argggg!!

I was hoping to get this to work before my Fri dyno. Guess I will be going back to the stock pulley.

Black LS1 T/A

This procedure has given me longevity for my belts, but doesn't fix misaligned pulleys, siezed idlers, etc. You still have to align the pulleys.

I shredded one before I aligned my Superdamper. It was literally link a tiger raked it to shreds. Once I got it aligned, it has run fine. If you can eyeball a misalignment, it definitely needs work.

Don't rush it. That's the worst thiing you can do. I know; I've been there. I disregarded my own advice and did exactly the thing you just did. I went back and at least got what I needed to align it correctly.

Black LS1 T/A

If it is ripping it like that, you should also see fraying at the edge after regular driving. I actually cranked up and crawled under the car enough to see how it's tracking. That helps too. If it looks like it's trying to ride up the SC pulley to jump a rib, or the belt is touching the outer lip of the idler, you need to shim it.

I was able to shim it pretty accurately by making sure it was running perpendicular across the idler. At first, mine was touching the lip of the idler. I couldn't tell after install, but I could tell when it was cranked and running.

I had to get the idler off my alternator belt. Then, since my Superdamper/ATI 8-Rib was a tad farther out, I had to move the bracket out that much AND shim the SC pulley back into alignment with the CP.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Yes the pullies are mis-aligned. The SC is sitting too far to the front of the car. For me to align it, I would need to grind the standoffs.

Since I need the car to get to work. I will have to put back the stock ATI CP till I can figure out how to fix it. Unless I can do it tonight. I just don't understand why the stock CP worked fine. Unless it sticks out further.