Dry sump?
Dry sump? I'm putting together a 600hp forged 5.3 in a touring/road coarse/track car and I was wondering..
how far can you push a conventional wet sump oil system? I'm sure baffles will help tremendously but I was looking into drysump kits and boy are they expensive.
do you think a simple high pressure oil pump and baffled oil pan will handle it? This car will be a daily driver and will be pushed pretty hard on street.
any help is appreciated. Thanks
how far can you push a conventional wet sump oil system? I'm sure baffles will help tremendously but I was looking into drysump kits and boy are they expensive.
do you think a simple high pressure oil pump and baffled oil pan will handle it? This car will be a daily driver and will be pushed pretty hard on street.
any help is appreciated. Thanks
Last edited by moekluse; Dec 17, 2016 at 12:44 PM.
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From: Norn Iron
I'm putting together a 600hp forged 5.3 in a touring/road coarse/track car and I was wondering..
how far can you push a conventional wet sump oil system? I'm sure baffles will help tremendously but I was looking into drysump kits and boy are they expensive.
do you think a simple high pressure oil pump and baffled oil pan will handle it? This car will be a daily driver and will be pushed pretty hard on street.
any help is appreciated. Thanks
how far can you push a conventional wet sump oil system? I'm sure baffles will help tremendously but I was looking into drysump kits and boy are they expensive.
do you think a simple high pressure oil pump and baffled oil pan will handle it? This car will be a daily driver and will be pushed pretty hard on street.
any help is appreciated. Thanks
You dont mention what car, what tyres, what sort of g's you might see and for what duration, what pan you intend to use etc etc.
Far far too many variables to say one way or another.
my local autox track has very sharp turns coming out of fast straights as well as a few zigzag parts to it as well. G's will be pretty high due to how light the car is. I have not picked a pan, I need a shallow pan, that's probably the biggest reason I wanted to go drysump because of a small pan. The internals are being balanced then motors ready to go in. First got to mention it's getting a t56. I have no whindage tray, pan, sump, oil pump..etc so Im open right now to the idea of drysump. Just wish they weren't so pricey lol
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From: Norn Iron
Light well balanced chassis with sticky tyres that does see hard track use often, a dry sump is the only sensible option.
That isnt to say the likes of an LS6 or other wont work too....GM deemed it ok for their Vette but sticky tyres can make a huge difference vs regular road tyres.
That said....there is also a good difference between sticky road tyres and slicks too, and you seem to have fairly narrow tyres still.
I doubt any other low profile type sump would be worth considering though, and if ground clearance is a problem, then again dry sump will assist you here.
Given you're building it from the ground up....it would be worth doing it right from the outset, rather than trying to figure out a dry sump kit afterwards
That isnt to say the likes of an LS6 or other wont work too....GM deemed it ok for their Vette but sticky tyres can make a huge difference vs regular road tyres.
That said....there is also a good difference between sticky road tyres and slicks too, and you seem to have fairly narrow tyres still.
I doubt any other low profile type sump would be worth considering though, and if ground clearance is a problem, then again dry sump will assist you here.
Given you're building it from the ground up....it would be worth doing it right from the outset, rather than trying to figure out a dry sump kit afterwards
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Verdad Gallardo I got a quote from ARE for a complete drysump kit for 4200 dollars. Would you recommend ARE? Any other comoon reputable brands?
Last edited by moekluse; Dec 17, 2016 at 02:15 PM.
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From: Norn Iron
It would probably be the best wet sump setup....but for a proper track car that will see a lot of g's in every direction, it will be no match for a dry sump.
Although it's a damn sight cheaper. It really does depend on how hard it will be going around corners and changing direction etc and of course under braking.
But if the car is built around the wet sump and needs to change later to dry sump, it can be a huge amount of work finding the room for everything and taking it all apart again.
Although it's a damn sight cheaper. It really does depend on how hard it will be going around corners and changing direction etc and of course under braking.
But if the car is built around the wet sump and needs to change later to dry sump, it can be a huge amount of work finding the room for everything and taking it all apart again.
Originally Posted by stevieturbo
It would probably be the best wet sump setup....but for a proper track car that will see a lot of g's in every direction, it will be no match for a dry sump.
Although it's a damn sight cheaper. It really does depend on how hard it will be going around corners and changing direction etc and of course under braking.
But if the car is built around the wet sump and needs to change later to dry sump, it can be a huge amount of work finding the room for everything and taking it all apart again.
Although it's a damn sight cheaper. It really does depend on how hard it will be going around corners and changing direction etc and of course under braking.
But if the car is built around the wet sump and needs to change later to dry sump, it can be a huge amount of work finding the room for everything and taking it all apart again.
C5 batwing would be my choice as long as you don't have sustained high g'2 in one direction for extended periods of time. I worked on the development of that pan many years ago and it is damn capable. I'd opt for the 2 piece design over the one piece if you can find one.