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Yea you have the mph to run a real low 10... Gonna take some more boost to get in the 9's though..
Coming out on the transbrake with no spinning, I guarantee you that the car will go 145. Right now much of the track is wasted, when I can use the entire track to accelerate.... the trap WILL go up. Right now I'm leaving with 10 inches of vacuum, when that's changed to 10psi..... watch out.
Yea when I figure out how to build boost on the line I will gain a lot of ET, but I don't know how much making boost off the line helps mph.. Unless your turbo is really laggy. Mine makes full boost by 30mph...
Yea when I figure out how to build boost on the line I will gain a lot of ET, but I don't know how much making boost off the line helps mph.. Unless your turbo is really laggy. Mine makes full boost by 30mph...
i went from like 118 with a 2.0 sixty to 122-125 on a 1.8 to 132 on a 1.5. You can definitely pick up a ton of mph if you're not using the whole track and leaving in boost.
You guys are entertaining. I just made my first trip to the track in 10 years. Cam only basically full weight GTO. Second pass about 1750 rpm launch dead hooked. On the 3rd pass I tried 2000 rpm, but the 60' suffered. My reaction time on the 3rd pass on my first time out in 10 years was 0.0649 so it won't be long and I'll have that down. I just need more power!!! I'll go play at one of the late night street races coming up soon and try flashing the converter and see if I can squeeze a little more out of it.
Is there any benefit to going with the race intercooler for my power goals? If I'm going to need it for my 700 rwhp goal I want to get it right up front when I start the build. Same thing with the fuel system...When the fuel system must be done for E85 I want it to be able to support my 700 rwhp goal easily so it's done even when I'm on low boost with the stock motor. Go with the race valve right from the beginning as well?
You guys are entertaining. I just made my first trip to the track in 10 years. Cam only basically full weight GTO. Second pass about 1750 rpm launch dead hooked. On the 3rd pass I tried 2000 rpm, but the 60' suffered. My reaction time on the 3rd pass on my first time out in 10 years was 0.0649 so it won't be long and I'll have that down. I just need more power!!! I'll go play at one of the late night street races coming up soon and try flashing the converter and see if I can squeeze a little more out of it.
Is there any benefit to going with the race intercooler for my power goals? If I'm going to need it for my 700 rwhp goal I want to get it right up front when I start the build. Same thing with the fuel system...When the fuel system must be done for E85 I want it to be able to support my 700 rwhp goal easily so it's done even when I'm on low boost with the stock motor. Go with the race valve right from the beginning as well?
I think he was asking if he should go with the race intercooler over the smaller dual intercoolers
Yes it looks like the GTO kit has a single intercooler with the option of a larger intercooler available that they call the 1300 hp intercooler. Obviously a lot more than my goals. Probably not needed, but just curious if it offers any benefit at 700 rwhp.
I would fit whatevers the largest FMIC you can. There's some interesting info about FMIC's that most of their heat dissipation on street cars is due to the sheer thermal dissipation of the FMIC itself and not the air moving through the fins/tubes. Fabbing up a cold side yourself is cake with all the ebay universal kits out there now. I did my entire cold side and still had HALF the piping left from the kit I bought.
WTF are you talking about, there have been PLENTY of vendors over the years who offered turbo kits with no scavenge pump....there's this cool thing called gravity that when a kit is designed correctly, you dont need a pump.
This.
Originally Posted by ddnspider
considering I disagreed with the rest of this response Id say you're right. Your comment about a 345 not hooking at 80 is a bit funny though....maybe it's less about not making enough power and more about knowing how to make your suspension work.
Please show me a true 850rwhp car that doesn't leave a rubber strip on the road from a lunch, and I'll show you someone who inflated their numbers. Who the hell know, maybe im making more? Actually dyno'd at 870rwhp, but I round down, not up like most people.
2 things that are always hard to argue with - experience and logic. I have both of those.
Originally Posted by sweet99ss
daily driving them daily
Isn't that kind of the definition? If you aren't driving them on a daily basis, then it's not a daily driver, right? This is just one of those topics that I feel will spiral out of control so just think about that.
The base Vortech kit I used from CAPA, that they supply with cogs can fit the cars. Granted, they too will need work, but that is a 50mm Gilmer and quite a wide front pulley. A 12 rib is only around 42mm wide, so should be fairly easy.
Marks Workshop has done quite a few down under, various videos on Youtube etc and some pics on their website. I'd imagine the Procharger pulleys end up in a very similar location ( higher end builds here )
Although again...switching to Gen5 front end parts, would give well developed kits and pull the pulleys all back an inch or so. Win win...aside from the work and cost to change.
Or for turbos, UPP is a US based bit, bit for a long time GenTT offered both single and turbo its in Oz. How well they might work on a LHD vehicle though...dont know.
Likewise AVO Turbo world did kits, and APS.
Off the back of those, one that popped up a year or two ago was Goat Performance again doing lowish mounted twins etc
Another option to consider vs the high front twins, which are messy for access etc
Yes, I'm very aware of Mark's shop (they build some badass rides), APS, UPP, CX Racing and GenTT (they were the original twin turbo tom mount mfg for GTOs here in the states. I've never heard of goat performance.
Again, this thread was somewhat based around a budget build. If someone was that determined, they could move the motor back and swap accessories, but that's only nice if money wasn't an issue.
Additionally, I'm not sure if anyone has tried to DD a COG driven procharger (or Vortech), but the few people I've known with them are pretty ridiculous. They do a tremendous amount of damage when they fail too
2 things that are always hard to argue with - experience and logic. I have both of those.
I'm seriously starting to doubt one of those, but I haven't decided which yet. Just like the leaving tire marks at lunch comment. No crap anyone can spin their tires if they want to from a dig or low roll. But a well setup car, especially with a real sized drag radial can hook at 80mph. I don't need to search for you. There's plenty of people on this site and in this section that can do it. Sorry if your GTO isn't one of them.
I'm seriously starting to doubt one of those, but I haven't decided which yet. Just like the leaving tire marks at lunch comment. No crap anyone can spin their tires if they want to from a dig or low roll. But a well setup car, especially with a real sized drag radial can hook at 80mph. I don't need to search for you. There's plenty of people on this site and in this section that can do it. Sorry if your GTO isn't one of them.
Maybe your streets are much better than what I drive on, you've never been in a higher HP car (or paid attention to the marks I keep describing?), or you're misinterpreting what I'm saying? Just because a car leaves black marks on the road doesn't mean that I'm doing a rolling burnout and rolling smoke.
My MT 345 DRs definitely leave marks on the highway from an 80 punch. My 28x10.5 DRs will nearly dead hook from 10-15mph if I roll into the throttle gradually. Again, these tires will also leave black strips... which is a product of traction. Not sure why that's so hard to believe.
Sorry for taking this topic off track, OP. This is a prime example as to why I don't post much here on Tech. People will argue with facts all day long no matter the amount of proof that's provided.
Maybe your streets are much better than what I drive on, you've never been in a higher HP car (or paid attention to the marks I keep describing?), or you're misinterpreting what I'm saying? Just because a car leaves black marks on the road doesn't mean that I'm doing a rolling burnout and rolling smoke.
My MT 345 DRs definitely leave marks on the highway from an 80 punch. My 28x10.5 DRs will nearly dead hook from 10-15mph if I roll into the throttle gradually. Again, these tires will also leave black strips... which is a product of traction. Not sure why that's so hard to believe.
Sorry for taking this topic off track, OP. This is a prime example as to why I don't post much here on Tech. People will argue with facts all day long no matter the amount of proof that's provided.
You can't claim them as fact/proof if people's own experience is entirely contrary to yours. Just because you can't hook your car, doesn't mean the rest of us have that problem. You keep referencing 345 drag radials....whats the sidewall and diameter of the wheel? If you say 17 or 18 then LOLOL. I've been in plenty of high HP cars and its entirely about knowing how to setup the car, including the tune and boost/timing curve.
You can't claim them as fact/proof if people's own experience is entirely contrary to yours. Just because you can't hook your car, doesn't mean the rest of us have that problem. You keep referencing 345 drag radials....whats the sidewall and diameter of the wheel? If you say 17 or 18 then LOLOL. I've been in plenty of high HP cars and its entirely about knowing how to setup the car, including the tune and boost/timing curve.
Who said it wasn't hooking? I sure didn't. I was just stating it made enough power/torque to still shove this heavy pig down the road while leaving marks.
Again, I think you are misinterpreting my comments. Exactly my point for going turbo - there is no boost curve for a PC setup. If you set a timing curve on a PC setup with a stock ECU, you are married to it at all speeds, not just when you need the traction.
With a wastegate, boost by speed is a real thing and would definitely be handy to dial in a car. Maybe you're just skimming what I'm saying...? I believe my grammar and punctuation is some of the best out here on this site lol... even from my phone.
06-11-2017, 06:19 PM
