What made you switch from procharger to turbo?
06-12-2017, 08:41 AM
#142
Well, I'm done here. I'll go back to just lurking and reading a mass amount of information from misinformed or inexperienced people. I'd say half (or more) of what is stated as truth comes from people that haven't even tried it on their own.
Best of luck, OP. Just thought I would share some of the ***personal*** experiences I've had with my 7+yrs of owning, working on, and driving a PC setup. Meh, what do I know.
Best of luck, OP. Just thought I would share some of the ***personal*** experiences I've had with my 7+yrs of owning, working on, and driving a PC setup. Meh, what do I know.
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Kfxguy (11-07-2019)
06-12-2017, 09:14 AM
#143
Who said it wasn't hooking? I sure didn't. I was just stating it made enough power/torque to still shove this heavy pig down the road while leaving marks.
Again, I think you are misinterpreting my comments. Exactly my point for going turbo - there is no boost curve for a PC setup. If you set a timing curve on a PC setup with a stock ECU, you are married to it at all speeds, not just when you need the traction.
With a wastegate, boost by speed is a real thing and would definitely be handy to dial in a car. Maybe you're just skimming what I'm saying...? I believe my grammar and punctuation is some of the best out here on this site lol... even from my phone.
Again, I think you are misinterpreting my comments. Exactly my point for going turbo - there is no boost curve for a PC setup. If you set a timing curve on a PC setup with a stock ECU, you are married to it at all speeds, not just when you need the traction.
With a wastegate, boost by speed is a real thing and would definitely be handy to dial in a car. Maybe you're just skimming what I'm saying...? I believe my grammar and punctuation is some of the best out here on this site lol... even from my phone.
06-12-2017, 09:18 AM
#144
Leaving black marks implies you're not getting full traction. I notice you didnt answer my question about tire size.....shocked. Your comment about timing curve is locked regardless of of turbo or blower, so moot point there. Your grammer may be good, but your argument is weak. You pick and choose what to respond to. We're obviously on different pages with different experiences so enjoy your setup and I'll enjoy mine.
06-12-2017, 11:00 AM
#147
Leaving black marks implies you're not getting full traction. I notice you didnt answer my question about tire size.....shocked. Your comment about timing curve is locked regardless of of turbo or blower, so moot point there. Your grammer may be good, but your argument is weak. You pick and choose what to respond to. We're obviously on different pages with different experiences so enjoy your setup and I'll enjoy mine.
No, I chose not to comment on the things that are blatantly false and was hoping others might be able to identify the BS. Since you're pushing the point and grabbing for straws:
If you've ever tuned a car, you would know why. Think back to where I said a wastegated turbo setup is more street friendly in the aspect of being able to dial in boost/power for a street driven car. Well, the base timing curve (if you've ever seen one) is based on manifold pressure and RPM. With a PC, the only way to modulate manifold pressure (outside of the change that naturally occurs with RPM based on a ton of variables - displacement, head unit size, cam specs, etc) is to 1) modulate the throttle or 2) try to run a wastegate on the cold side and run your compressor map all over the place. Unfortunately/fortunately in some cases, most PCd motors don't change boost much depending on the vehicle speed or gear, especially at higher RPMs so you're married to a timing table. Your base timing table is married to the aforementioned parameters, and in doing so makes a properly setup turbo car more manageable from a power standpoint because as the boost increases or decreases allows the tuner to adjust the timing table based on the boost level. There is NO having to worry about modulating the throttle. Just pedal to the floor and go.
Keep grabbing for straws. I'm already dreading my reply after I said I was leaving because I'm sure you'll nit-pick my comment and modify it into something else. Please PM me if you have any further discussion.
06-12-2017, 11:05 AM
#148
No, I just don't try to convince people of things that I haven't experienced. Apparently my 9.7sec 3900# car on DRs isn't setup correctly, and I need to burn it to the ground. I wish I had a dollar for every time someone told me that I wasn't doing something right. Just because I believe something different doesn't mean I'm wrong.
06-12-2017, 11:24 AM
#149
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
This is very much a budget build I'm just trying to address the entire car in one shot to have the best total package within my budget. So for budget reasons I want to stick with a "kit" made specific for the gto. I want to stick with a well built 4l60e by either RPM or FLT. I want to stick with the factory IRS with high quality "bolt on" parts most likely drive shaft shop stuff and a Kaaz posi for the stock differential. All of that contributed to my decision to set my goal at 700 rwhp because after that it seems to multiply the cost of the build quick. It also seems most of the problems with a procharger are by guys that were really pushing the limits horse power wise. I think 700 rwhp on E85 should be pretty comfortable for a procharger so with a bigger diameter 8 rib crank pulley at that power level I should avoid a lot of the issues people have when pushing the limits.
06-12-2017, 11:31 AM
#150
That's completely false. Using your idea, tires on cars would never wear unless you spin them. Tires always leave deposits of rubber in the road... when you accelerate a vehicle with a great deal of HP, the tire will leave behind even more rubber. Concrete shows this very clearly, and if you don't believe me, go watch a handful of street racing videos. Tire spins at this level is what most people relate to "hooking". Full traction (by your definition) + fast car = impossible. Hell, even look at super hooking cars at a prepped track and tell them their car isn't setup correctly when you see their tires spin slightly as they accelerate.
No, I chose not to comment on the things that are blatantly false and was hoping others might be able to identify the BS. Since you're pushing the point and grabbing for straws:
If you've ever tuned a car, you would know why. Think back to where I said a wastegated turbo setup is more street friendly in the aspect of being able to dial in boost/power for a street driven car. Well, the base timing curve (if you've ever seen one) is based on manifold pressure and RPM. With a PC, the only way to modulate manifold pressure (outside of the change that naturally occurs with RPM based on a ton of variables - displacement, head unit size, cam specs, etc) is to 1) modulate the throttle or 2) try to run a wastegate on the cold side and run your compressor map all over the place. Unfortunately/fortunately in some cases, most PCd motors don't change boost much depending on the vehicle speed or gear, especially at higher RPMs so you're married to a timing table. Your base timing table is married to the aforementioned parameters, and in doing so makes a properly setup turbo car more manageable from a power standpoint because as the boost increases or decreases allows the tuner to adjust the timing table based on the boost level. There is NO having to worry about modulating the throttle. Just pedal to the floor and go.
Keep grabbing for straws. I'm already dreading my reply after I said I was leaving because I'm sure you'll nit-pick my comment and modify it into something else. Please PM me if you have any further discussion.
No, I chose not to comment on the things that are blatantly false and was hoping others might be able to identify the BS. Since you're pushing the point and grabbing for straws:
If you've ever tuned a car, you would know why. Think back to where I said a wastegated turbo setup is more street friendly in the aspect of being able to dial in boost/power for a street driven car. Well, the base timing curve (if you've ever seen one) is based on manifold pressure and RPM. With a PC, the only way to modulate manifold pressure (outside of the change that naturally occurs with RPM based on a ton of variables - displacement, head unit size, cam specs, etc) is to 1) modulate the throttle or 2) try to run a wastegate on the cold side and run your compressor map all over the place. Unfortunately/fortunately in some cases, most PCd motors don't change boost much depending on the vehicle speed or gear, especially at higher RPMs so you're married to a timing table. Your base timing table is married to the aforementioned parameters, and in doing so makes a properly setup turbo car more manageable from a power standpoint because as the boost increases or decreases allows the tuner to adjust the timing table based on the boost level. There is NO having to worry about modulating the throttle. Just pedal to the floor and go.
Keep grabbing for straws. I'm already dreading my reply after I said I was leaving because I'm sure you'll nit-pick my comment and modify it into something else. Please PM me if you have any further discussion.
guy is hilarious.
06-12-2017, 01:20 PM
#154
Well, I'm done here. I'll go back to just lurking and reading a mass amount of information from misinformed or inexperienced people. I'd say half (or more) of what is stated as truth comes from people that haven't even tried it on their own.
Best of luck, OP. Just thought I would share some of the ***personal*** experiences I've had with my 7+yrs of owning, working on, and driving a PC setup. Meh, what do I know.
Best of luck, OP. Just thought I would share some of the ***personal*** experiences I've had with my 7+yrs of owning, working on, and driving a PC setup. Meh, what do I know.
After I run 9's in my SS I will likely start looking for a clean 08+ silverado. As soon as I go that route it will get a 4l80e and a turbo kit. Exactly what I recommend op do with his gto, but since he has already decided on going procharger may as well give my .02
06-12-2017, 02:24 PM
#155
I have built and owned 3 different procharged cars... And I switched to turbo because I like it better which is exactly what OP was asking for. I still think prochargers have there place, but IMO nothing like the sound, pull, and ability to make power easily with a turbo... Really the sound of slight throttle spooling of a turbo makes it worth going turbo over procharger lol
After I run 9's in my SS I will likely start looking for a clean 08+ silverado. As soon as I go that route it will get a 4l80e and a turbo kit. Exactly what I recommend op do with his gto, but since he has already decided on going procharger may as well give my .02
After I run 9's in my SS I will likely start looking for a clean 08+ silverado. As soon as I go that route it will get a 4l80e and a turbo kit. Exactly what I recommend op do with his gto, but since he has already decided on going procharger may as well give my .02
I'm a procharger fan and have another thread running about the cost. That is a factor obv. So sticking to the original purpose of this thread cost shouldn't be a factor because OP is asking why people switch from PC's to turbo's. Does that make sense?
06-12-2017, 02:51 PM
#156
Turbo spool is cool, but what about the sound of the procharger? They just sound evil in my opinion.
I'm a procharger fan and have another thread running about the cost. That is a factor obv. So sticking to the original purpose of this thread cost shouldn't be a factor because OP is asking why people switch from PC's to turbo's. Does that make sense?
I'm a procharger fan and have another thread running about the cost. That is a factor obv. So sticking to the original purpose of this thread cost shouldn't be a factor because OP is asking why people switch from PC's to turbo's. Does that make sense?
Cost will be within a few k depending on what you do. With all these nice kits huron speed is making for f-body's and the low price of turbo's that can make 900rwhp with a 1 year warranty I just couldn't ever put a procharger on an f-body..
06-12-2017, 02:56 PM
#157
To me the noise isn't even somewhat comparable. A procharger sounds like bad tensioner at idle and then once you go WOT you can't really hear it. My turbo car sounds like a damn jet taking off and then the power hits so instantly it feels again like a jet taking off lol. And when you stomp it in a procharger car it feels like a big n/a motor imo..
Cost will be within a few k depending on what you do. With all these nice kits huron speed is making for f-body's and the low price of turbo's that can make 900rwhp with a 1 year warranty I just couldn't ever put a procharger on an f-body..
Cost will be within a few k depending on what you do. With all these nice kits huron speed is making for f-body's and the low price of turbo's that can make 900rwhp with a 1 year warranty I just couldn't ever put a procharger on an f-body..
Except it feels like a big NA engine but without the throttle response.
06-12-2017, 03:02 PM
#160
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Wow...makes me wonder how procharger is even still in business since they suck so bad.
As far as I know Huron doesn't make a turbo kit for GTO's. I don't think the APS twin turbo kit is being made anymore either. The only decent looking turbo kit I found for the GTO was the UPP kit here...If you can take a break from the pissing match and give an honest opinion of this kit it would be appreciated.
http://uppturbo.com/parts/upp-05-06-gto-twin-turbo-kit/
As far as I know Huron doesn't make a turbo kit for GTO's. I don't think the APS twin turbo kit is being made anymore either. The only decent looking turbo kit I found for the GTO was the UPP kit here...If you can take a break from the pissing match and give an honest opinion of this kit it would be appreciated.
http://uppturbo.com/parts/upp-05-06-gto-twin-turbo-kit/