Project Hairy Banana (1967 Camaro single turbo)
#241
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
zboss if I can bring mine to LS Fest, it will be a 10 footer for sure.
Okay so I might as well do an update:
My goal is to get the wiring at least 70% done in next 7 days.
Okay so I might as well do an update:
- Sensors getting most of them from brotha Cam. Thanks sir.
- Just ordered headlight and taillight harnesses (nice used) from Ralph @ Chicago Motor Car Parts. My front harness ls cut off, and the rear looks sketchy and broken.
- I am going to order another radiator (great idea Mario!), I will take some measurements and get one like the one you suggested.
- Classic Dash makes a Holley Dash custom version, will order this:
-
- I am going to paint the other valve covers when they show up, then mount the smart coils on the ICT brackets.
- Once I have sensors I will will install as much of the Holley harness as possible.
My goal is to get the wiring at least 70% done in next 7 days.
#245
LS1Tech Co-Founder
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have an air compressor, I should hook it up.
Had a friend stop by, happened to be near my house, he's on the board too. Anyway Jim N. gave me his advice on how to tackle the wiring. I'm going to see if I can find an stock harness for the car and then avoid a ton of custom wiring. I will call my guy tomorrow.
Had a friend stop by, happened to be near my house, he's on the board too. Anyway Jim N. gave me his advice on how to tackle the wiring. I'm going to see if I can find an stock harness for the car and then avoid a ton of custom wiring. I will call my guy tomorrow.
#246
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (9)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The wiring isnt hard really, its fiddly and takes time is all. Starting with a stock harness isnt a bad plan, thats how I do mine but as my harnesses have gotten neater its not much of a time saver as I redo it all neat and tidy now anyways. One thing I do solidly recommend is the newer style fabric harness tape. I love this stuff
https://www.eficonnection.com/home/p...phigh-abrasion
https://www.eficonnection.com/home/p...phigh-abrasion
#247
LS1Tech Co-Founder
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bookmarking that tape.
Jim N pointed out that the stock harness would accept make all the basic stuff plug and play, and then we are only custom wiring the Holley and stuff like that (trans brake).
Jim N pointed out that the stock harness would accept make all the basic stuff plug and play, and then we are only custom wiring the Holley and stuff like that (trans brake).
#248
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (9)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes thats correct but the routing and length is seldom correct so your going to be cutting and splicing most of the leads anyways. Start by unwrapping the entire harness and lay out each individual sensor feed on its own. What helps a lot is rather than look at the harness as a whole and get over whelmed you simply pick a circuit, and one wire at a time starting at the sensor location you route it where you want, and take it all the way to the ECM ( PCM? ) not sure what the Holley is called regardless the computer, or to the power source or ground. Each sensor will have a power supply, a ground, and a data feed to the PCM ( some have more than one ) so its not that difficult but a proper plan of location for each destination that is safe ( no fire, abrasion, etc ) and easy to access along with appearance need to be considered before you start looming them in. I like to use the very small 4" or 3" long thin zip ties and simply keep tying the wire feeds over one another where nec and keep adding and adding zip ties and feeds laid over one another to keep it together tight until its up and running. Then I cut the zip ties off one a time as I chase down the harness wrap the harness with that tape good and tight cutting zip ties off as I go but leaving them to hold the wires to wrap. Ends up clean and organized without having to wrestle with a handful of wires falling all over. I know solder is one of those things that has a bit of an odd reputation with the auto harness crowd but it is the ONLY way to go imo so I suggest you pony up for a high quality soldering tool, I highly recommend the "Wall Lenk LG400C" soldering gun it is one of my favorite tools in fact its so good. Solder your going to want to use Rosin Core solder ( I like Kester 44 size about 1/16" ) and then to protect the connections I use dual wall heat shrinks with a heat gun. The dual wall is the only way to go as they are durable whereas the single wall are too thin for this and I have worn through them with nary a rub. Hope that all makes sense, to recap; One sensor at a time, one wire at a time until each wire is all the way home, lengthen/shorten as needed.
#249
LS1Tech Co-Founder
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The stock stuff would be the right length for the car (since it was a stock application). I'm only talking headlight, tailight, and in-dash harness. The engine harness and some other ones are separate.
My source thinks he has one for the '67 too, this might really simplify the wiring!
My source thinks he has one for the '67 too, this might really simplify the wiring!
#252
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My pleasure!!
Hey, about that dash insert you were showing, i dont know how much it goes for and or if you’re into carbon fiber look? Cause a local (to me) guy has one for sale, new, uncut, with carbon look, asking 150$ Obo (and thats in our Monopoly money!) tought id share. Maybe it could be of interest. He has it on fb.
Post up that rad in its place!!
Hey, about that dash insert you were showing, i dont know how much it goes for and or if you’re into carbon fiber look? Cause a local (to me) guy has one for sale, new, uncut, with carbon look, asking 150$ Obo (and thats in our Monopoly money!) tought id share. Maybe it could be of interest. He has it on fb.
Post up that rad in its place!!
#253
LS1Tech Co-Founder
Thread Starter
iTrader: (34)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
He has the holley dash insert or the plain one that goes where the radio and a/c controls go? The latter I could have some interest. Is it this? https://www.classicindustries.com/product/c67051s.html
I cannot post a pic of the radatior mounted because it needs mounting tabs added to it.
I cannot post a pic of the radatior mounted because it needs mounting tabs added to it.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
#254
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
He has the holley dash insert or the plain one that goes where the radio and a/c controls go? The latter I could have some interest. Is it this? https://www.classicindustries.com/product/c67051s.html
I cannot post a pic of the radatior mounted because it needs mounting tabs added to it.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I cannot post a pic of the radatior mounted because it needs mounting tabs added to it.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
‘Morning!
its the plain one (no holes cut) but, it goes where the original gauges did. Not in the middle where radio/ ac is.... never seen that done.
But, You want to put your Holley dash in the center?? So what, youd still use the old (clunky) gauges, on top of the (awesome) digital dash?? 😉. Trying to picture this. If its because of the wires... just wrap the harness behind the dash and forget about it!!
i sent you the link for the dash via messenger. I had lost it (man i hate it when that happens, i could really become crazy looking for lost stuff!!) and i just found it back.
M.