When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
loosen the control arm bolts to remove any binding, and double nut them.
Ive had my front end apart so many times I cant count. I say wait till you have the full weight of everything on it, then, AND ONLY THEN, start trimming the coils, and I recommend only 1/2 coil at a time.
I have not experienced the springs "settle" much, if any at all, if you do the double nut trick.
I have also always split the lower ball joint to swap springs, using a coil spring compressor that runs through the upper shock bolt hole, and compresses the spring up into the frame.
Barrett
So another vote for "leave it alone until it's at full weight."
Not sure what you mean by split the lower ball joint. Do you mean take the castle nut off to take the spring out? Not a big for me, it's all been off and is new.
This is digging up old memories I can only shake my head at now but I had friends who I can recall torch heat sagging coils as a way to lower ride height on 2nd gen f bodies. This is always AFTER the 750 double pumper install, of course, along with Moroso chrome. I have also seen torch cut lowering with coil suspension, cutting about a quarter to half a coil per go. Madness.
Anyways PSJ easy as she goes. Patience is a virtue here
Not sure what you mean by split the lower ball joint. Do you mean take the castle nut off to take the spring out? Not a big for me, it's all been off and is new.
I simply mean separating the suspension at the lower ball joint. It sort of seamed like you were removing the control arm bolts and lowering the control arm from there, while leaving the ball joint together? that is definatley the hard way.
3 pedals I had the lower castle nut off. I put spring in, then a chain, then jacked it up while holding the spring in with a bar. Jacked lower ball joint into the spindle, then put on the castle nut.
47ford, I can when I get home, I'm running a new manual steering box.
I forget if I posted this already, but I came across 325s on 15x14s, I am going to do the same thing on my car to start (pic from web):
Yeah he does great work. It's two level, the bottom level has the Holley Dominator bolted to it. This whole thing is going to get bolted up under the passenger side dash.
i appreciate you taking that for me.... my power steering box is a lot bigger and my manifold will not clear.... I had to cut it all up to make it fit and went to a track rental this past weekend and one of the welds blew out ..... hate to lose power steering though
there are kits and or just parts. Not too expensive and does a real good job.
if you like you PS, have you ever tried a fast ratio one?? I hadnt before i swapped one onto my 69 Camaro, that is the single most pleasant improvement i ever did to a MuscleCar!!! Im dead serious at that!!! The difference in firmness and road feel made the car so enjoyeable to drive its impossible to put into words! So if you update, please do yourself a BIG favor and go with a 12 or 14 to 1 ratio box. Youll thank me later,,,
Lead.
Last edited by Hellsx; 11-09-2018 at 07:25 AM.
Reason: spell checked
Yeah that’s going to be a must.... I can’t fit a truck manifold with the big power steering pump with out modifying it... I have had issues with it all summer.... I plan on doing an ict accessory mounting system which puts alt on passenger side and ps pump on driver side basically where the alt is on the truck bracket.... that is an awesome article for us first gen guys I really appreciate it
Yeah that’s going to be a must.... I can’t fit a truck manifold with the big power steering pump with out modifying it... I have had issues with it all summer.... I plan on doing an ict accessory mounting system which puts alt on passenger side and ps pump on driver side basically where the alt is on the truck bracket.... that is an awesome article for us first gen guys I really appreciate it
another option would be to go UP and FWD. Even on just that side if need be. Just sayin.
another option would be to go UP and FWD. Even on just that side if need be. Just sayin.
Lead.
i had manifolds up and forward before and hated it... I always fought plug wires and didn’t want to relocate them... this steering box looks like the ticket for down and forward
Wires on, wp loop on. When I get a chance I need to throw the front shocks on. Other than that I can slot the master maybe for install, but the car needs brake lines and electrical and that's it.
11-05-2018, 11:24 AM
