7.75@181 street car wheelie machine. 60 and 330 work needed.
#102
I tried 3.300 and 3,400 and itd make 10-11 psi. I cut a couple 1.22 at best because it would wheelie hard and Id let out before it got too high. It makes power quick. Itll make 20 psi on 4,000 2 step
#104
Then clipping the wall from loss of steering. Not sure if tire blew or the oem steering rack messed up. Felt locked out and couldnt steer the car left. Wheel felt like it had a column lock although it didnt. Hard to tell at 177 what happened first.
#106
Well no wonder you were stuck at 10.0's. You had your wheels on backwards.
#109
#110
#111
Damn that sucks. At least it's not that bad a crash, nobody hurt. What brand/type tires were on the front? Could the 200mph runs you been doing possibly have contributed to a tire failing I wonder.
I really doubt the steering rack failed. And wheel align going out of wack a little won't lock up the steering like that.
I really doubt the steering rack failed. And wheel align going out of wack a little won't lock up the steering like that.
Last edited by Launch; 08-04-2018 at 05:10 AM.
#113
Damn that sucks. At least it's not that bad a crash, nobody hurt. What brand/type tires were on the front? Could the 200mph runs you been doing possibly have contributed to a tire failing I wonder.
I really doubt the steering rack failed. And wheel align going out of wack a little won't lock up the steering like that.
I really doubt the steering rack failed. And wheel align going out of wack a little won't lock up the steering like that.
That was a brand new tire. Less then 15 miles. First 1/4 pass. First time over 150mph. According to the marks at the track the tire definitely blew first. Car rested on the lower control arm. Im assuming that is why it was tough to steer. Just dug in to the pavement and took priority.
So hopefully I hit something on the track and it wont happen again. Ill find out soon enough. A little more welding and itll be done. Ill have it on the road tonight or tomorrow.
Everything repaired besides the rear 1/4.
#114
#116
#117
That was a brand new tire. Less then 15 miles. First 1/4 pass. First time over 150mph. According to the marks at the track the tire definitely blew first. Car rested on the lower control arm. Im assuming that is why it was tough to steer. Just dug in to the pavement and took priority.
So hopefully I hit something on the track and it wont happen again. Ill find out soon enough. A little more welding and itll be done. Ill have it on the road tonight or tomorrow.
Everything repaired besides the rear 1/4.
So hopefully I hit something on the track and it wont happen again. Ill find out soon enough. A little more welding and itll be done. Ill have it on the road tonight or tomorrow.
Everything repaired besides the rear 1/4.
I don't know the track rules etc where you race, and I understand you don't want to mention brands etc, so I don't know what tires you had, but I'm myself more confident with having high speed rated radial front tires on mine, rather than the drag type bias ply front tires. I have 15x5" weld wheels with Toyo 185 radial tires on the front of mine. Really they weigh nothing more than a 15x4" or 15x3" wheel and drag type "light" tire.. not enough to show any difference in ET.. been there done that in the past on other cars.
In fact I think I should have gone with the 15x6 welds on the front, and run a 205/60 brand name radial front tire. Drag skinnies just wont pick up anything noticeable at the track, it's not worth the risk to me, they are just easier punctured and wouldn't have the same load rating as a good quality high speed rated radial tire.
Just my 2 cents. Also I think we should have tire pressure monitors, something we neglect, myself included. Not that that will help if a tire blows, but if it got punctured earlier on and was deflating..... you'd know it with a tire pressure monitor.
Last edited by Launch; 08-04-2018 at 07:44 PM.
#118
I appreciate you sharing this with me. I'm running 3.25s with a TH400 and wondering if the jump to a glide is going to be an improvement.
#119
So the tire got punctured somehow. All good man, you have done awesome with this car. I hate seeing crashes I always want to know what contributed.
I don't know the track rules etc where you race, and I understand you don't want to mention brands etc, so I don't know what tires you had, but I'm myself more confident with having high speed rated radial front tires on mine, rather than the drag type bias ply front tires. I have 15x5" weld wheels with Toyo 185 radial tires on the front of mine. Really they weigh nothing more than a 15x4" or 15x3" wheel and drag type "light" tire.. not enough to show any difference in ET.. been there done that in the past on other cars.
In fact I think I should have gone with the 15x6 welds on the front, and run a 205/60 brand name radial front tire. Drag skinnies just wont pick up anything noticeable at the track, it's not worth the risk to me, they are just easier punctured and wouldn't have the same load rating as a good quality high speed rated radial tire.
Just my 2 cents. Also I think we should have tire pressure monitors, something we neglect, myself included. Not that that will help if a tire blows, but if it got punctured earlier on and was deflating..... you'd know it with a tire pressure monitor.
I don't know the track rules etc where you race, and I understand you don't want to mention brands etc, so I don't know what tires you had, but I'm myself more confident with having high speed rated radial front tires on mine, rather than the drag type bias ply front tires. I have 15x5" weld wheels with Toyo 185 radial tires on the front of mine. Really they weigh nothing more than a 15x4" or 15x3" wheel and drag type "light" tire.. not enough to show any difference in ET.. been there done that in the past on other cars.
In fact I think I should have gone with the 15x6 welds on the front, and run a 205/60 brand name radial front tire. Drag skinnies just wont pick up anything noticeable at the track, it's not worth the risk to me, they are just easier punctured and wouldn't have the same load rating as a good quality high speed rated radial tire.
Just my 2 cents. Also I think we should have tire pressure monitors, something we neglect, myself included. Not that that will help if a tire blows, but if it got punctured earlier on and was deflating..... you'd know it with a tire pressure monitor.
But you are right. After this Im a little more leery on the situation. I also do not like my control arms and how low they hang. If the wheel was riding on the ground I may have been able to steer it. The control arm was what the car was resting on on the passenger side.
#120
Im actually really happy switching from the 400 to the glide. The car drives better and is easier to manage. Spins less on the street. I was really happy with the 3.45 as soon as the new 3.40 I ordered comes in I will put that back in.