customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

240 pump!? Why... lol. U should have at minimum a 340or a 450 if u want any power. Not sure about what boost your running but my 5.3 with a cam and ported stock heads is maxing 90% Injector DC at about 14psi via a cast 78/75 and that is with 60lb dekas but at 43psi, at 58psi they are 72lb and should handle 700hp. But I’m running a walbro 450. I did run a aermotive stealth 340 but I wasn’t happy with the flow vs pressure as I was running 58psi base and 12psi put me in the cliff where the aeromotive flow drops like a rock and didn’t feel like leaning out if I bumped more boost.

Who rebuilds starters anymore? Get them off DB electrical brand new for $50 and let it eat. Been running them for years.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

After thinking about ur reply I’m going to assume u mistyped and it was a 340lph in which case I’m also assuming stock 58psi base pressure and a stock regulator is it boost referenced? If the above is correct then your really at 72lb flow and you should handle mid teens boost which means u have a fueling problem. Not familiar with the goats so I can’t really help but I can tell you 15:1 is gona pop a piston. Can you verify fuel pressure while in boost or log it? I know with the truck style stock regulators u can bust the diaphram and push fuel into the vacuum line and not get the correct 1:1.

Busted regulator?
clogged fuel filter or pump sock?
pump voltage or pump going? Maybe pull the rails and do a quick injector flow test to make sure none are clogged?
log fuel pressure!

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

I had a brain fart. It is a 340 lol.

I didn't know I could get a starter for 50 bucks. Care to share a link?

I was only on 10 psi. I shouldn't have any issues where I'm at. I'm gonna dig deeper. I can log fuel pressure on this car? Where is there a pressure sensor? Hmmm. That definitely would make things easier. Last I checked with a gauge it was at 62psi. I'm actually headed to pick up my tool now. Something new happened today. Cranked and died a few times. Something definitely ain't right. Never does that.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Well hell. I checked the fuel pressure. Almost 70psi. So I made some tweaks in my tune and went back to the working tune I had at the track with the bigger cam. Now my afr is fat. Maybe I got trash in the tank and it was messing with the pump? Maybe a bug in the tune? I dunno. But I'm going to hook up my wideband to my boost controller and add a boost cut on a lean condition.

Mavn

iTrader: (3)

70 psi base 😬 that 340 pump is out of steam FAST at 70 psi. I think they only flow 190 ish at 70 psi. . Really need an aftermarket reg with boost reference and a 3 bar base pressure.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

It drops to 58-60

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Lol. Just checked. Says currently unavailable for my car.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Well. I guess this has turned into my trials and tribulations thread. Or a venting thread. Lol.
Got the starter fixed again. A member sent me a free GTO starter. Had the gear swapped. Did not fix my hanging problem. Come to find out my flexplate is smashed towards the motor. Evidently it happened when the input exploded. I thought it looked real close to the engine when putting it back together. It didn't Dawn on me till later. So I ordered another flexplate and I'll put it in at work on the lift Friday. Ugh if it ain't one thing, it's another. It's like I didn't have any problems Until I exploded the output shaft.

Game ova

This must be frustrating. To save yourself some work, leave the bellhousing bolts, along with the crossmember bolts finger tight upon reassembly.......

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking either dzus fasteners or leave out every other bolt.


I had a lol from your post lololol

It is frustrating. But I think after I get the flexplate swapped, I should be good to go.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Ok. I changed the flex plate yesterday. I compared my stock to the alleged bent one. It was definitely smashed. It was 3/16" shorter than my stock one in height. My problem is fixed now. No more noise. What was happening is the flexplate was closer to the engine and it would ever so slightly contact the starter gear and make noise.


The trans works perfect. Shifts nice and crisp and very fast. As soon as I move the lever it shifts. Well I really can't say how hard the 1-2 shift is because it goes like this, I put the lever in first, go about 20mph, nail it. Spins, shift to second gear and sins to like 70 and then shift to 3rd. It's a nice positive 2-3 shift. It loses alot of power when I shift to 3rd because it hits 11-12psi now and I have it set real rich in those cells. I wasn't hitting that kind of boost before because I had an exhaust crossover leak that is now fixed. So now I have to dial in my fuel curve. But so far, she pulls hard.

freeky

glad to see your working your problems out

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Thx. I drove it around all day yesterday and enjoyed it. This is such a nice driving car. I kinda wish the cam loped a little more (it sounds too close to stock) because now it's so quiet that when I drive up somewhere no one suspects this thing to be what it is. You really can't see the intercooler either. Guess it's cutout time. I still need to build my larger down pipe and I'm going to do a little shot of meth past 8psi. I think I'm gonna just do a small shot pre turbo. I don't plan on relying on the meth shot to keep things safe. I'm just going to use it for an extra cooling effect and safety margin. I may add one or two degrees timing to it but it's already real low around 10-11 degress at 11-12psi.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

congrats on working through the issues, always frustrating when they stack up. I'd go post turbo meth injection. Amen to the e-cutout.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

so. Lemme ask. Or let me explain. So I’m not running it on the ragged edge right now. I’m running 11-12 degrees of timing. No spark retard. I probably could add a degree or two. Afr is 11.10-11.5. Trying to keep it safe. I felt like if I added a small shot pre turbo it would add a little more cooling. I didn’t want to rely on it, just a small supplement to it. I was just gonna use a windshield washer pump. I know they don’t put off as much volume as a shurflo but I’m not looking for that. I’d have to retune if I ran a large amount and I just want to add a small cooling effect that will allow me to safely add a degree or two of timing and not have to worry if it malfunctions. To be clear, this is basically to get me started. To get me up to speed on using meth. Start slow and work my way up. I feel it would be better than having nothing.

Why I don’t want to go post turbo right now:
1) cost. Trying to not spend much money on the car right now. I just invested a good bit in the trans. Gotta recover from that and I’m saving for vacation.
2) I’m going to eventually go shurflo type pump with a flow sensor to integrate with my boost controller. That’s like $165 by itself. I don’t want to go with the high flow pump without the sensor.
3) something better than nothing. At least I’m thinking it is.

Mavn

iTrader: (3)

Engine masters just tested water meth on an LS6 style intake and it does NOT work at all lol

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

details? Hotrod and about a million other people have used it with good results.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

well that’s good for me. Because I don’t have an ls6 intake


muhahahaha

seriously. I watch it this morning because of you. Thx. I didn’t know that vid was out. I’m subscribed to them.

Heres my opinions

1) they did not do both intercooler and meth at the same time. Which I have.
2) they tuned it to be dependent on the meth. I am not doing that.
3) how do we know they weren’t simply running too much meth?
4) it did make almost the same hp but was down on tq.
5) I totally see it as a benefit that the rear cylinders ran cooler. These engine inherently run hotter on the last two cylinders. I see that as a benefit especially with the small amount I plan on adding.

Just my unprofessional opinion.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

basically made almost the same hp but a good bit less tq.
Poor wet flow characteristics of an ls6 intake manifold was to blame
the rear cylinder were 30 degreees cooler
it made a touch more boost with the meth and no intercooler
the complexity and packaging of just meth is an advantage, running out of meth is a disadvantage if your tune is reliant on it.
They are definitely pro intercooler
they did not test them in conjunction with each other which to me would have been the most valuable bit of info.

5.3
ls6 intake
btr stage 2 cam
trick flow heads
BW S480

*****i disagree with this test. why? well they used the absolute best possible sceneraio air to water intercooler, it was right in front the engine with large pipe. most cars are going to have much more intercooler piping, decreasing flow. They should have rund and air to air and ran meth with the intercooler *****

Air to water intercooler
729hp 637.5tq
14lbs boost
temp in intake started at 70f and ended up at 86f

meth: using boost juice
starts flowing at 5psi, all in at 13 psi
1 and 6 injection nozzle from snow
720hp 582tq
temp in intake started at 69f and ended up at 87f


no cooling:
650.6 hp 586tq
started at 106f and ended at 173f inlet temp



hold tight. I’m rewatching to get more details and numbers. Check back and I’ll edit.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Water meth mix is something I do not understand. You get the ability to increase power with the added cooling and octane of meth, then you **** on your own parade by putting water in the mix. Water certainly has the ability to cool your charge, right up to the point of not allowing it to burn at all. The only advantage of water is cost and lack of corrosion.