My first single turbo build
Looking good!
Are you open to advice on the aluminium welds? If so what amperage are you welding it at? it appears you have too much heat and are using an excessive amount of filler rod. From pic eariler in the the thread it appears you are using a eastwood 200 according to the torch pic of the leash.
Are you open to advice on the aluminium welds? If so what amperage are you welding it at? it appears you have too much heat and are using an excessive amount of filler rod. From pic eariler in the the thread it appears you are using a eastwood 200 according to the torch pic of the leash.
Looking good!
Are you open to advice on the aluminium welds? If so what amperage are you welding it at? it appears you have too much heat and are using an excessive amount of filler rod. From pic eariler in the the thread it appears you are using a eastwood 200 according to the torch pic of the leash.
Are you open to advice on the aluminium welds? If so what amperage are you welding it at? it appears you have too much heat and are using an excessive amount of filler rod. From pic eariler in the the thread it appears you are using a eastwood 200 according to the torch pic of the leash.
i probably am using too much heat. The deal is the Eastwood doesn’t have a frequency adjustment so it’s a little more crude and I’m pretty inexperienced welding aluminum. I just now have been able to get a puddle. I still haven’t got the wire feeding down yet. I’ll get better as I get more practice. On amps, I use as much as it takes to get a puddle going without having to sit in one spot for more than a few seconds. If I turn it down the welds get real clumpy and a puddle won’t foem so I’m trying to use just enough amps to not blow through it but still get a puddle. Everything is holding fine (I drove it to work today as a matter of fact) so I’m not too concerned with it. Maybe next kit I build will be better.
i probably am using too much heat. The deal is the Eastwood doesn’t have a frequency adjustment so it’s a little more crude and I’m pretty inexperienced welding aluminum. I just now have been able to get a puddle. I still haven’t got the wire feeding down yet. I’ll get better as I get more practice. On amps, I use as much as it takes to get a puddle going without having to sit in one spot for more than a few seconds. If I turn it down the welds get real clumpy and a puddle won’t foem so I’m trying to use just enough amps to not blow through it but still get a puddle. Everything is holding fine (I drove it to work today as a matter of fact) so I’m not too concerned with it. Maybe next kit I build will be better.
By no means think I'm knocking the welds, they are plenty strong and are gonna hold no doubt! I do quite a bit of tig welding and started with a eastwood 200 years ago, just wanted to give you some pointers is all. Practice def makes perfect. Torch angle is super important on aluminium for a good looking weld also if you are welding aluminium switch back to the number 8 size cup that comes with the welder, I have had better results on aluminum with a smaller cup vs my pyrex and furick cups. Welds look very good for a beginner along with the turbo kit man, good work!
Also try blue banded 2% Lanthanated Tungsten for lower amerage aluminum and stainless I have found this works very nice.
By no means think I'm knocking the welds, they are plenty strong and are gonna hold no doubt! I do quite a bit of tig welding and started with a eastwood 200 years ago, just wanted to give you some pointers is all. Practice def makes perfect. Torch angle is super important on aluminium for a good looking weld also if you are welding aluminium switch back to the number 8 size cup that comes with the welder, I have had better results on aluminum with a smaller cup vs my pyrex and furick cups. Welds look very good for a beginner along with the turbo kit man, good work!
Also try blue banded 2% Lanthanated Tungsten for lower amerage aluminum and stainless I have found this works very nice.
Also try blue banded 2% Lanthanated Tungsten for lower amerage aluminum and stainless I have found this works very nice.
Hello guys, just wanted to check in. I’ve been driving the car 2-3 days a week to work. My drive one way is almost an hour. It’s been doing good, no problems, other than some tuning issues I’ve been dealing with. I also took a road trip this weekend, 2.5hr drive to Gulfport and Biloxi to go to cruising the coast. No problems. I actually got 20mpg cruising 75+. I got stuck in a lot of traffic. Never reset my trip and my mpg came out to 17.9mpg with the traffic and city driving combined. I guess that’s not too bad and my tuning isn’t dialed in perfect yet. I’ve been struggling with that, my own fault. My lap top was giving me issues and I was ignoring them. Once I fixed the issues, my hp tuners seemed to be working correctly after. It got so bad, I’d flash the ecm and the car wouldn’t start unless I unplugged the tps and did a manual reset. It’s now driving the best it ever has. Now I can start dialing everything in and turn up the boost. I’m still on a sissy 6psi lol.
So I did a thing. I was gonna buy a spring. But I wanted adjustability. I have a lathe. And this wastegate was only $50 so eff it. Check it.
I did drive it around after. Because of the way I did it and made it sit down into the cap, I was able to keep it at the same tension and the boost is the same right now.
I found a nut and bolt to fit the threads on top. I rounded the tip of the bolt......
Then I muchined this little piston doohicky. It’s purpose? It sits on top of the spring (spring located into it) and the bolt pushes on it to allow adjustment of the spring tension.
Had to machine the spring grooves out of the cap
Spring fits on it perfect.
It fits perfectly into the cap. It has about 3/8” of travel.
I did drive it around after. Because of the way I did it and made it sit down into the cap, I was able to keep it at the same tension and the boost is the same right now.
I found a nut and bolt to fit the threads on top. I rounded the tip of the bolt......
Then I muchined this little piston doohicky. It’s purpose? It sits on top of the spring (spring located into it) and the bolt pushes on it to allow adjustment of the spring tension.
Had to machine the spring grooves out of the cap
Spring fits on it perfect.
It fits perfectly into the cap. It has about 3/8” of travel.
Looks good. Looks just like my HKS which is the same thing. I would drill a hole to the side and tap for a 1/8” npt and put a nipple on it. That way you can still run a MBC or EBC bc that’s where your headed lol. Pulling the spring is annoying huh? Throw a $25 MBC or a $280 EBC and adjust your boost without opening it up... Ull love it.
Side note my HKS is the same thing but the adjustment bolt is like 1-1.5” of adjustment. Backed all the way out (no preload on the spring) I get 6psi boost through a full exhaust. Adjust all the way in by increasing preload and I get like 8psi. So that full range of 1-1.5” only nets me about 2psi. I haven’t tested it with my EBC bc I didn’t care enough but I wanted to know my base before and after max preload.
Test it back to back and see what boost u get out of it. I just hope you have enough space under the cap for full valve movement otherwise you might lock up the valve and boost over the moon.
Side note my HKS is the same thing but the adjustment bolt is like 1-1.5” of adjustment. Backed all the way out (no preload on the spring) I get 6psi boost through a full exhaust. Adjust all the way in by increasing preload and I get like 8psi. So that full range of 1-1.5” only nets me about 2psi. I haven’t tested it with my EBC bc I didn’t care enough but I wanted to know my base before and after max preload.
Test it back to back and see what boost u get out of it. I just hope you have enough space under the cap for full valve movement otherwise you might lock up the valve and boost over the moon.
Looks good. Looks just like my HKS which is the same thing. I would drill a hole to the side and tap for a 1/8” npt and put a nipple on it. That way you can still run a MBC or EBC bc that’s where your headed lol. Pulling the spring is annoying huh? Throw a $25 MBC or a $280 EBC and adjust your boost without opening it up... Ull love it.
Side note my HKS is the same thing but the adjustment bolt is like 1-1.5” of adjustment. Backed all the way out (no preload on the spring) I get 6psi boost through a full exhaust. Adjust all the way in by increasing preload and I get like 8psi. So that full range of 1-1.5” only nets me about 2psi. I haven’t tested it with my EBC bc I didn’t care enough but I wanted to know my base before and after max preload.
Test it back to back and see what boost u get out of it. I just hope you have enough space under the cap for full valve movement otherwise you might lock up the valve and boost over the moon.
Side note my HKS is the same thing but the adjustment bolt is like 1-1.5” of adjustment. Backed all the way out (no preload on the spring) I get 6psi boost through a full exhaust. Adjust all the way in by increasing preload and I get like 8psi. So that full range of 1-1.5” only nets me about 2psi. I haven’t tested it with my EBC bc I didn’t care enough but I wanted to know my base before and after max preload.
Test it back to back and see what boost u get out of it. I just hope you have enough space under the cap for full valve movement otherwise you might lock up the valve and boost over the moon.
Your waste gate has 1.5” of travel? That seems like a lot?
I checked it it as I was machining. It allows the same amount of valve travel.
I already have a manual boost controller. I’m going to adjust this until I get 8-10 and then turn the mbc down. That way when I turn it up, the max I’ll get is 8 or so. Eventually I’ll put an ebc in it.
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Your waste gate has 1.5” of travel? That seems like a lot?
I checked it it as I was machining. It allows the same amount of valve travel.
I already have a manual boost controller. I’m going to adjust this until I get 8-10 and then turn the mbc down. That way when I turn it up, the max I’ll get is 8 or so. Eventually I’ll put an ebc in it.
Hello my dudes. I just wanted to update this thread on some things. I did end up selling this whole setup to my buddy. I still have everything on the car while we are collecting parts. I have made a few changes to the car and the turbo. Nothing major. I kept wondering why my boost pressure would not get higher than 6psi. Well I thought it was a crossover pipe leak. I fixed that. No change. I had a custom copper gasket made for my v band connection, it was leaking too because the car is way quieter. Very nice to drive. Even though the cam I have is a tad rowdy, the car is super tame. I’ve pretty much perfected my tune.
The best investment I’ve made so far....by leaps and bounds, is a electronic boost controller I added. I did post a thread on it the other day so I’m not going to go into detail about it, but man. I am just absolutely amazed the difference it’s made. I can dial the boost back to 2.5psi in first gear so it doesn’t obliterate the tires and then as soon as it goes to second gear, it’s on like donkey Kong. I have 6 possible maps at the touch of a button and I’m only using three. Map one is a neutered map. Mainly will use it because I get like 6psi in second and third. Map two is a little more in second and third. And map is on kill (well sort of) and gets 9.5psi. My max I’m going to be running will settle around 11-12 psi. On 9.5 it pulls harder than any car I’ve ever rode in. It’s got to be able to trap high 120’s or maybe even faster. My third gen that trapped 124 felt a good bit slower. This thing pulls hard. Very hard. I’m impressed.
My wideband took a dump this evening, seems like it was self induced. I tried to hook it up to my tablet to log and evidently the wires were swapped in the plug I bought from innovate. So I guess it fried my wideband controller. Flock.
Plans now are I’m upgrading to a billet turbo. I’m probably going to upgrade to 80lb injectors and do dual fuel pumps with a return system in the near future. If you guys are interested, I can post a new build thread on the new improved setup I’m going to be building. I don’t mind doing it if people are interested, but it’s alot of trouble to do it if no one is interested. The next build should be a bit better because I’ve learned a lot from this one.
The best investment I’ve made so far....by leaps and bounds, is a electronic boost controller I added. I did post a thread on it the other day so I’m not going to go into detail about it, but man. I am just absolutely amazed the difference it’s made. I can dial the boost back to 2.5psi in first gear so it doesn’t obliterate the tires and then as soon as it goes to second gear, it’s on like donkey Kong. I have 6 possible maps at the touch of a button and I’m only using three. Map one is a neutered map. Mainly will use it because I get like 6psi in second and third. Map two is a little more in second and third. And map is on kill (well sort of) and gets 9.5psi. My max I’m going to be running will settle around 11-12 psi. On 9.5 it pulls harder than any car I’ve ever rode in. It’s got to be able to trap high 120’s or maybe even faster. My third gen that trapped 124 felt a good bit slower. This thing pulls hard. Very hard. I’m impressed.
My wideband took a dump this evening, seems like it was self induced. I tried to hook it up to my tablet to log and evidently the wires were swapped in the plug I bought from innovate. So I guess it fried my wideband controller. Flock.
Plans now are I’m upgrading to a billet turbo. I’m probably going to upgrade to 80lb injectors and do dual fuel pumps with a return system in the near future. If you guys are interested, I can post a new build thread on the new improved setup I’m going to be building. I don’t mind doing it if people are interested, but it’s alot of trouble to do it if no one is interested. The next build should be a bit better because I’ve learned a lot from this one.
your build turned out really good and you learned a ton. Congratulations man, it ain't easy. The learning curve is very steep.
I myself would first pick a goal, something challenging but attainable with proper effort.
Then build your combo to that goal. If you can leave "headroom" without breaking the bank, do it.
For example: consider the cost of running -6 vs -8 to the rails, it's a small investment now but will pay dividends later if you run corn and try for 1000 wheel.
Now would also be a good time to consider an 80e swap. It's not beyond your means technically and cost wise you can probably sell your current 60e and stall and come out even
You have also mentioned your concern over the type of rods in your car, now would be a good time to inspect.
again man, congrats on making the leap to boost. beware though, "Who has known heights and depths shall not again
Know peace-not as the calm heart knows"
that is to say, you are hooked now
I myself would first pick a goal, something challenging but attainable with proper effort.
Then build your combo to that goal. If you can leave "headroom" without breaking the bank, do it.
For example: consider the cost of running -6 vs -8 to the rails, it's a small investment now but will pay dividends later if you run corn and try for 1000 wheel.
Now would also be a good time to consider an 80e swap. It's not beyond your means technically and cost wise you can probably sell your current 60e and stall and come out even
You have also mentioned your concern over the type of rods in your car, now would be a good time to inspect.
again man, congrats on making the leap to boost. beware though, "Who has known heights and depths shall not again
Know peace-not as the calm heart knows"
that is to say, you are hooked now
your build turned out really good and you learned a ton. Congratulations man, it ain't easy. The learning curve is very steep.
I myself would first pick a goal, something challenging but attainable with proper effort.
Then build your combo to that goal. If you can leave "headroom" without breaking the bank, do it.
For example: consider the cost of running -6 vs -8 to the rails, it's a small investment now but will pay dividends later if you run corn and try for 1000 wheel.
Now would also be a good time to consider an 80e swap. It's not beyond your means technically and cost wise you can probably sell your current 60e and stall and come out even
You have also mentioned your concern over the type of rods in your car, now would be a good time to inspect.
again man, congrats on making the leap to boost. beware though, "Who has known heights and depths shall not again
Know peace-not as the calm heart knows"
that is to say, you are hooked now
I myself would first pick a goal, something challenging but attainable with proper effort.
Then build your combo to that goal. If you can leave "headroom" without breaking the bank, do it.
For example: consider the cost of running -6 vs -8 to the rails, it's a small investment now but will pay dividends later if you run corn and try for 1000 wheel.
Now would also be a good time to consider an 80e swap. It's not beyond your means technically and cost wise you can probably sell your current 60e and stall and come out even
You have also mentioned your concern over the type of rods in your car, now would be a good time to inspect.
again man, congrats on making the leap to boost. beware though, "Who has known heights and depths shall not again
Know peace-not as the calm heart knows"
that is to say, you are hooked now
Well i I found out I do have gen 4 Rods. Well I’m pretty sure of it. Couple guys I talked to had gen 4 ls1’s in their 04 gto so I don’t see why I wouldn’t.
I dont think im considering the trans swap anytime soon. I don’t really abuse my car and being I build these things, I’d like to see how far I can take it and keep it living. More or less a test to see if I can make it hold. If it becomes a issue then I’ll look into a different trans. I’ve really been wanting a 6l80 anyways. It’ll just push me to do it.
I really dont think my goal my goal will be much higher than I’m at now. I really do need to upgrade my fuel system. One of the reasons I’m not beating on it and now that my wideband isn’t working, I’m really not gonna drive it till I get another one.
man I don’t know why but I’ve never had the desire to make 1000hp. I guess because I know that the cost of drivetrain upgrades needed will cost me a mint and then all that costs me reliability too. And comfort. If you could ride in this car, you’d tell me not to ruin it. And I don’t want to. I think I may do that with another car later on but this one is too quiet, comfortable and reliable for me to muck it up. It’s honestly almost like driving a stock car till you put the hammer down.
So I did a thing. I was gonna buy a spring. But I wanted adjustability. I have a lathe. And this wastegate was only $50 so eff it. Check it.
I did drive it around after. Because of the way I did it and made it sit down into the cap, I was able to keep it at the same tension and the boost is the same right now.
I found a nut and bolt to fit the threads on top. I rounded the tip of the bolt......
...
I did drive it around after. Because of the way I did it and made it sit down into the cap, I was able to keep it at the same tension and the boost is the same right now.
I found a nut and bolt to fit the threads on top. I rounded the tip of the bolt......
...