Back to the topic of mighty mouse's car I saw it in action once at the track and that car was impressive as hell. He drove an hour and a half to the track on 17 inch drag radials and clicked off an 8 second pass on them. Needless to say everyone who had no idea about his car was in shock including the track officials. After finishing up multiple low 9 and high 8 second passes he aired his 17 inch drag radials back up and drove home. I don't know of many cars that can do that.

 

I love it when one of these threads pop up here or on the Corvette forum. Finally, something interesting to read!

 

Since we are talking street cars with potential daily driveability and prochargers came up... It’s worth mentioning that with a procharger there is no down time. A procharger can be installed by a guy in his garage on the weekend with basic tools. A turbo kit may result in significant down time if trying to build it in your garage while working a full time job.

A procharger also results in lower under hood temps and lower iat’s. Just thought it was worth discussing since procharger streetability was questioned.

 

My only gripes with cages and seats are:

-your cage needs to have swing outs. Don't give me the street car business when you're trying to climb in and out without hitting your head.

-Alum Kirkey's with zero padding don't really seem like a street car to me. Aftermarket race seats like Recaro, etc. with padding count.


DONT START THIS INTO ANOTHER TURBO VS. BLOWER THREAD!!!!

 

You make a good point on cages...A close friend has a sick vette he drives on the street from time to time. It has gone 5.0x in the 1/8th driven to and from the track with more in it. Recently on the street he had an issue with a blown head gasket and the engine wouldn’t shut off so he jumped out in a hurry to hit the battery disconnect and bashed his head on the cage. He ended up in the emergency room getting staples.

 

Plenty of turbo kits you can buy and install in a weekend. I've done the AGP, HuronSpeed, APS, etc kits that were bolton and go as they literally included every nut, bolt, gasket and hose you need. But I agree for a custom setup either could take longer then a weekend. Some guys have belt issues with procharger and spend time chasing that down and doing 10+ rib or cog drive swaps, some guys have wastegate issue with turbos, it all just depends.

Why would either power adder have an impact on under hood temps? If anything the procharger is often hotter because people normally run thinner stainless headers with a supercharger, with turbo you can run stock or aftermarket thick cast manifolds. Especially if you run a twin turbo kit that places the turbos in the stock cat location and connects to the stock exhaust, there isn't any added heat and sometimes no added noise either. Really comes down to what you are after in either setup.

As far as IAT's, either can be controlled with the same intercooler. I've done 20+ PSI on F1 and an 80mm on the same air to air intercooler and there wasn't any crazy difference in IAT's, they both stayed fairly low and consistent.

 

I agree, but you can only have swing outs down to 8.50 which is kind of the limit with monkey bars to me for a street driven car. My own car only certs down to 8.50 and runs faster but I can't justify more cage than that in a street car.

I've actually never seen Kirkeys without the padding, that would be absolutely terrible. With the padding they are actually pretty comfortable even on longer drives. I switched to Tillett seats in the C6Z, so damn comfortable it's ridiculous. The padding isn't even on in this picture yet but it doesn't even need it.

 

Agreed.

This I will not agree with. This is the main reason I chose to run a procharger on my C6Z because you can't package a turbo setup that is capable of making 1500 rwhp without having them come out of the hood or have bumper exit exhaust. Underhood temps skyrocket on corvettes with any type of turbo kit (even small turbo setups like APS or custom low mounts) and it only takes a year or so of daily driving to destroy hoses, wiring, etc under the hood. We've installed more turbo setups than I can count over the years and it's all the same. I'm a huge turbo guy and I wish I could package a twin turbo setup capable of 1500 horsepower under the hood but you just can't on these cars.

 

Those Tillett's DO look comfy!

 

The turbo setup in the OP's post will make 1500hp and comes out factory exhaust, granted its a much more involved install but it's possible which is the point of this thread. I've had and installed multiple low mount kits and never had any issues with anything being destroyed. Anything remotely close to the turbos I use DEI products heatsheath or similar so nothing is damaged. Same as I do on a header install or any other type of exhaust change that routes near heat sensitive components. The prep work is key in those scenarios for long term success and only takes a few extra minutes on the install. Some kits I notice include heat protection type wraps and sleeves just for this purpose.

I just went about upgrading my turbo kit to ones with larger turbine and compressor covers. Precision 67/76's and 67/66 as well as Garrett GTX3582's will fit the low mount manifolds. It's tight in there but two of those are rated at 750 a turbo and while that may be too close for comfort for a 1500hp goal, the 6766 is rated at 935 a turbo so I think it will suffice for most people just fine. Like has been stated multiple times and ways in this thread everyone has different goals and there are many different ways to achieve them!

I haven't noticed any increased under hood head heat with either turbo setup. Granted I have made some little changes for airflow (repurposed the stock brake ducts and used a carbon vented hood) but oil, coolant, intake temps remain normal during daily driving, beating on it on backroads, extended pulls, nothing seems to really bother it. I'll keep giving it hell though and update when something is destroyed or melts but I wont hold my breath as its already seen many thousands of miles without issue.


Agree Kirkeys can be comfortable once you are in them, its just the getting in and out with the high sides that's a hassle. I was eying the Tillets as they are sexy and lightweight but decided on a more normal Corbeau leather A4's not the lightest things but comfortable and way better then stock for a daily.

 

EDIT.....mixed up poster....thought it was BCNUL8R.

 

Yeah we've tried all of the coatings, all of the covers, all of the heat wraps. Give it enough time and the heat will destroy stuff. Now of course it gets to be 110 deg here in AZ during the summer months and within a year or two things are started to get torn up. Having a vented hood really helps and we've done that on a lot of the turbo cars but it's a non-issue with the blower cars. You can't have something that heats up like a turbo does and not have it affect underhood temperatures and everything around them. I could never run no filter either with the amount of dirt and dust in this state so try fitting a filter on the end of those turbos and good luck.

I agree the gen2 GTX3582s are billy badass turbos, we have an f-body with those same turbos on there and they are making just over 1000 rwhp through a TH400 at only 20 psi. However I just don't see how those things would fit on any low mount manifold, pretty sure we even stuck one up on an APS car that was in the shop at the time just to see what it would look like and it hit everything and would literally require cutting every panel around it. Then feeding it fresh filtered air and it's damn near impossible.

 

1,000 is more then enough to run mid 8's in an f-body so that's a cool street setup. No idea about fbody low mount fitment (just so many cheap big single kits) but on a C6 I tried a few scenarios and they fit with the E compressor covers, granted that may limit flow a little but on a true street car who cares it's still plenty of power, especially at 3,200lbs. Plus if its a drag centric build you can get the TRZ subframe and fit even larger and be lighter.

 

Slow or not I like my factory interior to much to rip it out. I have the dual gauge pod on the dash now otherwise it's the same now as it was in the picture. We can usually run mid 6's in the 1/8th for a while locally on street nights before they say anything about a roll bar.

 

I always digged the GTO seats and dash double gauge pod.

 

The car that OP posted up is without question a nice car, and a next level build. But I've said before, and will say again, this 3rd gen is far and away the most impressive GENUINE street car that I've ever been blessed to see go down the track in person. No exhaust out the hood... no jacked up and stripped interior, still has heat/ac powersteering....EVERYTHING. I understand that people have different and often loose criteria of what a street car is, but this is what I view as a street car, and not a racecar that gets driven on the street.

 

Some of you guys stipulations for a street car are a little much.

 

Want to be more specific on what stipulations that have been mentioned are unreasonable? In your opinion of course? I think most of us here are talking about cars that could possibly be driven daily not something that can be taken out once in a while on a nice weekend day only. I've seen plenty of race cars driven on the street, but even the owners would tell you that it's not something that can be driven daily or even a fairly regular basis.

 

Thank you. There is a lot to love about the '04-'06 GTO, but there is ALOT to hate about them as well.

 

Anymore, it seems that many see a street car as one that can be tagged and insured, and doesn't overheat. There's little regard as to how the exhaust is ran, and that's even if it has exhaust. More and more, I see the standard exhaust out the fender with the obligatory chrome accent around the new hole in the fender. Another one of the things you will typically see in these so called street cars is what I call the racecar dash, the blue screen holly, or some other screen. Then to finish it off, there will definitely be no AC or heat, and many times no passenger seat, and forget about a nice sound system. Instead there will be a huge ice chest with piping ran throughout, to keep the "street car" from popping pistons. A real deal street car, is one that has full interior with comfortable seats, heat and cold AC, some jams, can take your woman on a date, and not smell like exhaust fumes by the time you get to wherever you are going. It will also be reasonably reliable, not needing a special ritual to get the thing to run. You should also be able to drive it to and from the track at will, this will exclude cars that run solely on methanol or alcohol, as I'm not aware of any gas station that sells it. The term "street car" has been completely abused, and it's getting worse. From what I can tell, the vette that OP posted, is a truly legit street car, as well as the 3rd gen in the video. Imo, these are fine examples of what it means to be a street car. Much of the stuff around forced induction labeled as being a street car I shake my head at, often times the car is fast.... but that's where it ends.