98 tanks and modules cant use a venturi anyway. There is nothing to hold the fuel. Every 99-02 stock bucket/puml has a venturi. Not every aftermarket bucket/pump does.
No 340+ or 400+ does besides ours.
If you're on a 98 i forgot or didnt know about that and a venturi wont matter. But using rubber fuel hose in the tank from the pump to the hat is a bad idea. Even the "submersible" type. Thats what the nylong convoluted tubing is for. Too often the amazon and ebay stuff and even the aero and dw stuff will come with some bs rubber hose.
Ive seen that stuff either literally in pieces or bulged out ready to pop like a flammable aneurysm.

And as heat goes up, resistance goes up, voltage goes down and current load goes up. Those are all connected. It has to pull more current to put out the same work.

Kfx if you look at a fuel pump fuel curve youll see a huge difference from just 13.5v to 12.5v. Pretty significant on a modified vehicle with higher fuel demands.

Oetiker clamps are the best option there or small fuel injection clamps like the diesels use. Some parts stores have them.
Any worm gear wont work well at all.
It seems like some of your stuff has been pieced or hacked together from putting together some of the comments you made on the wiring etc. Why? I mean you realize this now, but really, why?
It so easy to get the right hotwire kit and do it right and uncomplicated the first time. And not expensive either. Plus all high quality parts.

 

I've used worm clamps and fuel line in tank for over a decade on Fbodies without issue. Paying $100 for a hotwire kit that is literally $10 in parts seemed excessive so I made my own. I happen to miss a step in how I had it grounded.....which wasn't the problem anyways and could have happened on a purchased hot wire kit, so that's a moot point. If it ends up being the pump, then all my "hacked together" stuff wasn't the problem now was it? I did pick up some fuel line specific clamps at the parts store so when the pump comes in I'll swap to those clamps just in case.

 

Hotwire kits arent $100.
They use a much better relay than you can purchase at the parts store also. Plus they can come with the proper in tank harness and bulk head in case someone was using the old square style in the 99-02 fbody cases.
Youd spend well more than $10 just for the wire alone. And for a good relay like that? They are at least $25 if not way more. Plus the weather tight connection for it. There is no comparison there.
No cutting, no splicing. Plug and play and be done.
It saves quite a bit of time troubleshooting and splicing etc.
You can miss steps when installing anything, but when the only parts you have to worry about are plugging things in and routing a wire to the alternator, its much less common to.

As the others said the worm gear style just physically cannot make a circle once the line gets so small. Yes they work, but they will also cut into any rubber line given time. And also the rubber will deteriorate. Even though sometimes i cuss the oetiker clamps for the areas i have to put them in and the tools i have to use/buy to make them work, they are well worth it. Some people have issues trying to clamp them, and quite often when we have people call in with fuel pump/delivery issues, its due to that.
Those other clamps look like this in case anyone else was interested.
Usually easier to get locally vs the oetiker and less hassle. And they do a better job of staying full round.

 

I do see they came down in price from what I remember. Back then it was either Racetronix or Casper and Casper was the cheap one for $90 plus shipping. They don't even show it on their website anymore lol. Oh well, my ground wire is fixed.

Yes that's the clamps I was able to pick up so it'll go on with the new 450 when it arrives.

 

I didn't mean any disrespect for your wiring or wanting to save some money. I could tell you were a little agitated about that. Text doesn't convey tone of voice well.

Here is the link for the hotwire for 99-02 It comes with the new flat bulkhead and in tank harness but the harness is really only for the 255 and 340 pumps. The 400+ use that different style fuel pump in tank harness. We will be putting alot more of that stuff together for that style so you can then purchase the harness and comes with the different in tank harness.
We will be working on pricing also after the 1st.
Its the same price tho for the 400+ in tank harness vs the 255/340
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...-harness-only/

If you dont need the new bulkhead then that dcreases price also obviously. The old square connector only allows about 15a through before getting VERY hot and going into reactor meltdown etc. Thats why the new bulkhead is so important.

We are launching a new site style so quite a bit isnt making it on the old site.

I do hope youve found your issue though. I understand how frustrating all this can be around the holidays also.

 

Aint no thing. Can't make build threads without being critiqued lol. I have a 98 and just saw the hotwire kit you sell for that year. I was aware of the factory bulkhead current limitation so I drilled another opening in the hanger assembly to bypass the factory bulkhead. I am surprised you don't have a single 450 on there but maybe that'll be on the new site. I think mine is supposed to arrive on the 2nd and I'm off work so hopefully I can swap it and be done with this and focus on turning the boost up some more.

 

Well....its not the pump, clamps, or feed hose. Swapped all of it and similar behavior. However, I went for a LONG log and noticed something of interest. Whenever the car is stationary and idling, the fuel pressure will slowly drop. But once I get moving again, like hopping on the higher way, the fuel pressure comes back. To me this indicates something is getting warm and affecting fuel pressure. Since its not the pump and the regulator stayed cool to the touch after idling for awhile, there isn't much left except the fuel line itself going to the rails. Either that or the power wire from the alternator to the pump is getting hot and raising the impedance of the wire, but I still see 12.9V+ at the pump itself.

 

**** it tune around it. harness your inner hack!

 

​​​​​​Please apparently I'm already a hack by using worm clamps and making my own hotwire kit, that would just be overboard!

 

yeah i caught a little of that up there. dont you know this forum only exists for the sole purpose of putting money in board sponsor pockets?

they come and they go. foisting the same crap with a different name on it. sigh. I should smarten up and join them.

maybe sell 4L60e "bulletproofing kits" haha


pardon my lazyness but did you ever set it up with a boost ref'd return at the rails?

 

Lol it's all good. WS6store did hook me up on my motor rebuild so I don't mind some critiquing to get a more robust build.

I should just sell my A4 tune for half of what a 4l60e rebuild costs.....what a deal!?!? Here is what I came up with for adding a boost ref external FPR. There is a factory fuel block under the driver side about halfway down the car that goes back to the intank FPR. I removed 2ft of Hardline and replaced it with 6AN to the external FPR and tee'd into a vacuum line. Then removed the stock intank FPR.

 

draw a schematic

 

Steve- Option 1 above.

 

If you are running 12ga or better from alternator to the pump you should be reading alternator voltage back there and it should be at least 13.5 but more around 14.xx. Any less points to an issue.
One thing at a time. Figure the voltage issue out first

98 does suck and there will be a better bulkhead option soon for them as well. Its obviously slightly more complicated with the complete different design plus the pigtail sticking off of it.

If the alternator regulator isnt working then it can have issues giving proper field current at idle which causes lower voltage at idle. The field cannot build as fast at a lower rpm to keep it up. Or the battery is having an issue.

 

we'll partner up. with your special "super 60e saver" tune and my special mix of whatever frictions and seals are on sale at my local transmission warehouse we'll clean up on facebook



imo that set up has the regulator trying to work against too much volume. are you logging FP in HPT? I bet you could see a pattern against TPS %

 

You read my mind. I was almost wondering if the wire was heating up, increasing resistance and decreasing voltage to the pump. Hop on the highway and there's enough airflow to cool things back down and get more voltage to the pump...

 

LOL, who needs a 4L80 when you put our stuff together

I believe if the regulator was struggling to keep up, I would have EXCESS pressure, not low pressure. It also wouldn't vary from idle to cruise. Just to reiterate, if I get on the highway fuel pressure goes back up to 50 psi at cruise. If I sit at idle it will drop as low as ~38 psi after sitting for 15 min. I am logging a tranducer at the fuel rail with EFI Live. Here is a warm start log thats 17 min long.....check out the fuel pressure over time. Ignore the step change in the AFR, I went closed loop just to see if it would correct back to stoich.

 

hmmm very interesting

can you plot it against map and injector pw? that logged voltage is at the pump?

 

It's the freakiest thing. Plotting against map doesn't show anything significant, average varies by ~1-2 psi for that purely idle log. I had turned off the IPW PIDS to pick up some idle ones during that warm start log, but pulling an old cruise log up I plotting IPW vs. FP and it shows a slope as expected, average fuel pressure rises with IPW. That battery voltage is the GM.VOLT PID from the PCM. I've only looked at battery with a DMM so far.

 

More detail.

So where is that filter ? What size are those hardlines ? Are you sure that factory tee fitting...is full bore throughout ?

What is the makeup of that return ? Image doesnt show much...but I assume the hardline nylon is in some shape or form the return ? Is it full bore throughout ? With no restrictions ?

The vac signal...from where exactly ? Is it a dedicated line ? Have you tested the FPR with a Mityvac to ensure the top chamber does not leak ? ( Many actually do a little....not an issue with say a 1/4" vac line direct from the intake. But as you're maybe a few feet away a small leak could reduce pressure quite a bit.
A gauge tee'd off directly at the vac/FPR would indicate any issues there too. But a test with a Mityvac is good, and you may need some sealant around the adjuster threads.
( Although a leak there under vac, you'd think FP may rise as opposed to fall )