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Well I made a fancy schmancy puller to get the inner hub off the LSA blower this morning. Pulled the rotor pack out. It's not pretty that is for sure. I suspect at least on piece of rod went through it.
I spent about two hours with a die grinder sanding disc and a dremel with a sanding drum on it for the hard to reach areas getting all the gouges, noogies, and burrs removed from it.
It rolls through smoothly again. If you put it just right and spin the rotors you can see a nice consistent gap between though two again.
The bearings in the rotor pack feel great. The roller bearings look great and the shafts that ride in the roller bearings look smooth as glass.
I ordered some of the whale blubber blue grease for the roller bearings. I'm going to put it back together. If it rolls through smooth I'm gonna send it.
Damn shame though this blower will have almost no value from here forward. The Olson Snout will be most of the value and the brick.
I also bought a used but like new already reinforced brick from Vengeance Racing to replace my damaged brick. While mine doesn't leak it's pretty mutilated in the fins and some of the tubes are damaged so it would spring a leak.
First off, so sorry to hear about your engine. That carnage is seriously one of the worst that I've seen.
Nice job on salvaging the blower. At this point, I wonder if you could get the inner polished to get out more of the imperfections? I would honestly do the exact same thing that you are now and run the blower. Fix what you can and if it runs true and smooth, send it.
Look for a 05-06 truck 6.0 since they still have 24x, but should already have gen4 rods. I'm sure if you keep an eye out, you'll find something. Would be cool to get an LY6, but not sure if those have 24x or 58x crank wheels.
First off, so sorry to hear about your engine. That carnage is seriously one of the worst that I've seen.
Nice job on salvaging the blower. At this point, I wonder if you could get the inner polished to get out more of the imperfections? I would honestly do the exact same thing that you are now and run the blower. Fix what you can and if it runs true and smooth, send it.
Look for a 05-06 truck 6.0 since they still have 24x, but should already have gen4 rods. I'm sure if you keep an eye out, you'll find something. Would be cool to get an LY6, but not sure if those have 24x or 58x crank wheels.
Thanks ryeguy. It's smoother than it looks in person. Yeah there are still some valley gouges in there but no mountains. I didn't want to over do the sanding/polishing just to try and keep somewhat of a the metal left to keep the balancing of the rotorpack somewhat close.
I just picked up a 2005ish LQ4 yesterday. It's a cherry from what we can see so far. It has the gen 4 rods in it but they will likely get sold off for some aftermarket H beams. Will also be lowering the compression way down from where we were before.
A buddy of mine had the engine. It’s from a boat. Was replaced due to a noise they couldn’t identify. Seems to be low hours.
Wont know until it’s apart.
If all good, he just needs the block and crank, can sell the 317’s rods/pistons and it will be practically free.
Hooked him up with a C5 pan too.
I’d be curious to know how many rpm those blower rotors spin?
A buddy of mine had the engine. It’s from a boat. Was replaced due to a noise they couldn’t identify. Seems to be low hours.
Wont know until it’s apart.
If all good, he just needs the block and crank, can sell the 317’s rods/pistons and it will be practically free.
Hooked him up with a C5 pan too.
I’d be curious to know how many rpm those blower rotors spin?
Thanks again Ron for all your help on this.
With the current pulley combo at 6000 the blower is 20100. :o
I have a message left with Superchargers Online as well. Seems they may have access to new rotor packs. That would be obviously the right way to go if it's not going to be 2k dollars.
Ok, the wife is gonna kill me. Just got off the phone with SOL. They do in fact get new rotor packs directly from Eaton.
They will do a full rebuild, with new rotor pack all new bearings all new hubs a dyno run and a 1 year unlimited warranty for 1600.
It is the right thing to do since it's going on a fresh motor.
Wow the carnage just keeps on coming! Now that I see it I wonder if the bottom of the piston where the pin goes broke off and then they just hammered the piston that was left in the bore after that. Snapped the rod in the hammering process and the rest is history.
I got in touch with them too about my own supercharger, the one I mentioned had the bent rotor and they quoted me the same price. I don't recall shipping being included though.... I was rather irritated they wouldn't just sell me a rotor pack considering I had just put new bearings in mine. I get it but at the same time it felt like robbery so my options were limited. Either buy a new one or rebuild one so for 300 more I got the new one. What kind of power are you looking to make? I'd look at the limitations of that blower before going too crazy on building a motor. On E85 and a ported blower I don't think I've seen one of these make more than high 700s with a stick shift. I know torque is high but you may not need to stray far from that 6.0 if you just do pistons and rods. Isn't there compression pretty low from factory? 9.2 maybe? A good port job on those heads and you're back in business. That's just me though because I'm a cheap effer hahaha.
if you have friends in Texas, might be worth shipping a motor up if you find a good one used. 6.2 longblocks are 2-3k and without a high amount of miles. also check out the NW lsx groups on facebook. theres decent deals that come up often. think I saw an aluminum 5.2 shortblock for like 700-800 not too long ago.
as far as a blower goes, boost direct might have a decent reman forsale? I saw someone post about E85 being hard to find at pumps in the NW. I know forged fuels is based out of the portland area and has E85/E98 for around $220 a 55 gallon drum. comes out to about $4 a gallon. Considering pump 92 is $5-5.70 depending on where you are.
if you have friends in Texas, might be worth shipping a motor up if you find a good one used. 6.2 longblocks are 2-3k and without a high amount of miles. also check out the NW lsx groups on facebook. theres decent deals that come up often. think I saw an aluminum 5.2 shortblock for like 700-800 not too long ago.
as far as a blower goes, boost direct might have a decent reman forsale? I saw someone post about E85 being hard to find at pumps in the NW. I know forged fuels is based out of the portland area and has E85/E98 for around $220 a 55 gallon drum. comes out to about $4 a gallon. Considering pump 92 is $5-5.70 depending on where you are.
Sorry to hear man
So I ended up buying a 408 stroker LQ4 all forged from AMS racing. It was the fastest way ultimately to get the car back up and running without taking 6 months to get it done. I would like to drive this car again this year before the weather turns to **** again lol.
I did talk to Roshan at Boost District and he said he hasn't had reman LSAs for quite some time. I guess they really are dried up. He does have brand new ones for 2300. It wound up being better for me to send mine out to SCOL to get a new rotorpack put in it with a full rebuild.
I got it back the other day and it literally is like brand new.
Oh man that block got DESTROYED! Someone should start a thread on posting destroyed blocks that one could be fun one. That 408 should be pretty fun with that blower but do you think the 1.9L might be a little small for it now?
The more I ponder this scenario and the more people I talk to I think it's making most sense that this thing butted the rings for whatever reason. Likely going lean for another unknown reason at this time.
The reason I think the damage is so severe is because when it let go it had full length rods with the wrist pins in them being swung around like baseball bats. If the rods had broke in the middle and the wrist pins stayed on the pistons the damage would be far less severe.
Anyhooters, swapstang yeah the LSA should actually be able to provide plenty of boost in a 408. There are even documented and dynoed examples of 427s with the little LSA on them making great power.
Should be a fun build. I have almost everything to put the car back together less the short block.
I am also going to try and redo the fuel system to a loop style regulated deal instead of the current short deadhead setup I've been running. The only way to do this is to cut off those little wings on the back of the blower behind the fuel rails. I don't even understand fully why those things are there on the blower? I am assuming it has to do with crashworthiness or something stupid like that.
Ugh so sad. I want to do this setup. But then always think a centrifugal would be easier and probably save money in the long run. My future wife will kill me no matter what 😂😂.
05-24-2022, 12:44 PM
