Launch at 4400rpm and 10psi. 2 seconds in, its at 20. By 4 seconds it tops out at 28psi

Seems to be something funky going on with my dome pressure and the control.
I’ll look into it

 

Definitely a 7 with the ramp coming in sooner. Awesome man!

 

That slip looks good so far!

Are you saying that it's not hitting it's dome target fast enough? Or that actual boost is lagging behind the dome pressure by a lot?

Some lag is normal between dome pressure and actual boost rise and that all depends on the combo, etc but if it's not hitting it's dome target vs dome actual then it sounds like your PID settings are wrong for the CO2 control. Post up the log and it will tell the tale.

 

Sorry Nic. Forgot to reply. Turns out nothing wrong other than me not understanding the data I’m looking at…

 

And, for those of you still interested in what I’ve got going on…

Got it back from the shop for some upgrades.

 

Love this car! Looks so different from when it was red and has the other roof.

 

Thanks John!

 

Made it to YellowBullet Nationals this past weekend.

Torched the head Q1. Got the block too.
time for a tear down and determine where to go from here.

 

Man that sucks, any idea what caused it

We just torched my buddies car a couple weeks ago we had the block welded and decked and bought a new bare head swapped all the parts over from the torched one

Hopefully your able to do something like that so its not too costly

 

Thanks.
20psi and 16* timing and it was a bit lean at 11.8 on the gas scale.

#7 cylinder burnt into the water jacket.

I don’t know why it made 20psi on a 8lb spring and no dome pressure. I didn’t expect it to make that much boost, so I wasn’t concerned with the timing map. When I checked the 2-step, it made 13psi at 5000rpm.
Also, I would think the CL compensation should have added fuel, yet it doesn’t appear that it did.

Oops..

370” engine. Ignite Red fuel. No intercooler. A 40mm JGS gate on each bank with good priority. 94/102 turbo.

Sure, in hindsight, I should have put it on a dyno and ensured the tune was good before sending it down track… but I didn’t.

I can disassemble the engine and get the block decked. The head is already at the shop for repair. If I keep this block, I’ll get new pistons to drop the CR to a more reasonable level, as it’s 13:1 now. (Originally built to be max effort).

All I want to do now is run 8.50 index. I can get a LC9 locally for $1000. Thinking of getting that and lose 100lbs.

I’ll figure something out within a week. No rush.

 

Well that sucks, it was good before so maybe something weird happened so check injectors, etc.

I will say though that a 13.5:1 compression ratio with no intercooler on E85 leaves absolutely no room for error, and a small issue becomes a big one in a hurry. Personally I would be down around 10.0:1 to keep the tuning window larger especially since you said you just want to run the 8.50 index class.

 

Yeh, drop in cr is a must.

Keep my current setup but new pistons.

Or, LC9 and put my current rotating assembly in it with correct pistons.

Or, LC9 and leave the bottom end stock, but my current cam and have the stock heads worked over - valve job and new springs/seals.

I’m really leaning towards the LC9, as I like the idea of dropping weight.

 

I always lean towards aluminum just to drop weight and I always try to "overbuild" the engine for my intended goals because I don't like to work on stuff and I just want it to run. I would go 6 bolt with an aluminum LSR block, keep CR in check, and not worry about the engine again. I mean you've got plenty of money and time into this entire build and an LSR block would be a mere fraction of it. I've had my LME LSR block engine together since 2018 and I've done nothing but beat the **** out of it with multiple boost setups on it, I suppose at some point I should pull it and have it gone through but it's had no problems.

 

You’re not wrong about it. I really want to keep it “stock block”. And I can’t even come up with a good reason why.

I like the LSR block from the first time I saw it at PRI years ago. By now, it’s a proven platform. That would be the smart path to take.

 

We do know a buddy who was in our LS Fest this past weekend who is running a solid LSR who's been 4.30s. We kinda wonder who's makes the blocks.

Maybe it made that boost because you had a boost leak?

 

That sucks! Sorry to hear. You'll get it sorted and back out. LC9 FTW

 

Ever thought about solid deck/head via welding up coolant passages, adding hoops, and parallel cooling? Especially being this appears to be mostly race car. I know there is certainly extra money involved there but feel like it makes a stronger fuse. I get that the 13:1 as said you best be on your A game.

 

When I first started putting this together, I did consider it, as I was planning to race Ultra Street and use M1, so no real need for water in the block.

But, now I’m just racing 8.50 index, so I’m trying to make it as mx free as possible.

Engine is out. Very slight damage to the deck, so it’ll get a couple thou taken off and new pistons to reduce the CR.

 

8.50 or 5.30 works well for a lot of us.

We have two local 5.30 classes that are packed, tight racing.

 

How much lower are you planning on going?