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@Tommy42088 just do it this way, way easier to reach over and push a switch instead of fiddling with a remote when you want it open.
Best of both worlds.
This is how chat gpt is telling me to wire that, is that correct? Ive tried this twice listening to chat with the module and it didnt work out and then it came back and told me I needed two dpdt added with the relays originally so thats when I stopped.
RELAY 1
(OPEN)Pin 30 → Cutout Black
Pin 87 → +12V (fused)
Pin 87a → Ground
Pin 86 → Switched +12V
Pin 85 → From DPDT switch OPEN side output
RELAY 2 (CLOSE)
Pin 30 → Cutout Black/Blue
Pin 87 → +12V (fused)
Pin 87a → Ground
Pin 86 → Switched +12V
Pin 85 → From DPDT switch CLOSE side output
HOLLEY OUTPUT WIRES (THEY DO NOT GO DIRECTLY TO RELAYS)
Holley Output 1 → diode → DPDT switch OPEN side middle terminal
Holley Output 2 → diode → DPDT switch CLOSE side middle terminal
Stripe on diode faces toward the switch.
DPDT ON-OFF-ON SWITCH — EXACT WIRING
The switch has two vertical sides, each with 3 terminals.
OPEN SIDE (Relay 1)
Top terminal → Ground
Middle terminal → Holley Output 1 (through diode)
Bottom terminal → Relay 1 pin 85
CLOSE SIDE (Relay 2)
Bottom terminal → Ground
Middle terminal → Holley Output 2 (through diode)
Top terminal → Relay 2 pin 85
WHAT THIS MEANS (ONE SENTENCE)
Switch UP sends ground directly to Relay 1 and blocks Holley close
Switch CENTER lets Holley outputs reach both relays
Switch DOWN sends ground directly to Relay 2 and blocks Holley open
Last edited by Tommy42088; Jan 12, 2026 at 10:53 AM.
Next mod, ordered a double slip fit for my turbo crossover piping and 2 new v band connections. Going to cut off the v bands on my crossover and manifolds and weld new ones on. The ones one my truck have just a slight leak, not to the point were its loud but if you climb under the truck you can feel just a little air getting by the flanges so im going to change those out and put on the double slip fit. Since we cut out the flex piping "junk" that was on it i want to add the slip fit. Also the quick release fittings for the intercooler came in so ill be doing that soon too. Ill post pictures when its done.
I feel like v bands leaking is pretty normal. Some places even sell copper gaskets for them. No matter how I weld them they always warp ever so slightly, and I always clamp them together first. A little high temp copper seals it right up. Just my $0.02
Edit to add i buy the cheapest stainless v bands with the quick release ebay has to offer lol
I feel like v bands leaking is pretty normal. Some places even sell copper gaskets for them. No matter how I weld them they always warp ever so slightly, and I always clamp them together first. A little high temp copper seals it right up. Just my $0.02
Edit to add i buy the cheapest stainless v bands with the quick release ebay has to offer lol
The v bands that are on there for some reason dont have male/female ends and ive tried making gaskets, ive tried the high temp copper. They still leak, I originally had a cx racing kit on the truck and I changed every single thing out from that kit except those v bands, thats the last remaining straw. I just use the evil energy v bands and they seem to do well, my exhaust has evil energy v bands and they all seem to seal well. Its not a drastic leak but enough that I hear it and it gets on my nerves, Im sure its been doing it but I didnt hear it with the fender exit, now that its much quieter I can hear it.
The v bands that are on there for some reason dont have male/female ends and ive tried making gaskets, ive tried the high temp copper. They still leak, I originally had a cx racing kit on the truck and I changed every single thing out from that kit except those v bands, thats the last remaining straw. I just use the evil energy v bands and they seem to do well, my exhaust has evil energy v bands and they all seem to seal well. Its not a drastic leak but enough that I hear it and it gets on my nerves, Im sure its been doing it but I didnt hear it with the fender exit, now that its much quieter I can hear it.
Yeah I bet cxracing warps them to hell and back. ive always heard the cheaper kits werent worth the hassle and it appears you have experiencewith that. I like building my own kits but the log manifold on a truck seems so easy these days. If i ever score a 2500 I think I'd like to try 1
Yeah I bet cxracing warps them to hell and back. ive always heard the cheaper kits werent worth the hassle and it appears you have experiencewith that. I like building my own kits but the log manifold on a truck seems so easy these days. If i ever score a 2500 I think I'd like to try 1
Yeh its junk man, i ended up using a stock manifold on the passenger side and i kept the drivers side manifold but we basically cut it to pieces and completely re made it, really only just for the sake if keeping the manifold flange and the t4 flange. Its impossible to make those crossover v bands seal, its literally 2 smooth face flanges with v bands. Ive already got everything I need to fit it i just havent had the time off of work to do it yet. More then likely some time next week. The double slip fit comes in next week so ill do it after that.
Cross over pipe modified, flex joints cut out and phx fabs dual slip fit joint added in the center of it and cheap cx racing v bands cut out and evil energy v bands welded in place. Ill post pictures when I get it back in the air but its much better. Wayyyyy quieter without the leaks. Intercooler will be next, quick release clamps with be welded on the intercooler. We would of done that Saturday too but ran out if argon and couldnt make any more welds. Also sanded the front end with 320 grit and primed and color matched with spray paint and put black lights and corners in the front.
Also added Amazon tip to exhaust out the back, trucks a little dirty. Its been raining and cold outside and these pictures are at night but you get the point.
Nice! It's looking more "finished" now. Always good to get all the little details taken care of on a build.
yeh its definitely coming together, fyi my hood bolts were loose in those pictures on the passenger side. I had taken the passenger fender off while I was doing everything. I figured someone would comment on the gap but its now closed and tight.
Why is holley reading my truck in first gear all the time, I didnt even notice it was doing this until yesterday when I tried my transbrake in my driveway because I hadn't tried it in a while and t didnt work. Truck started spinning the tires. Rossler transbrake requires d3 for transbrake so it won't engage like this. It didnt use to do that and the only thing I can think of ive changed lately is the neutral safety switch because my reverse lights were staying on. My gears read fine on the dash and truck shifts normal.
Why is holley reading my truck in first gear all the time, I didnt even notice it was doing this until yesterday when I tried my transbrake in my driveway because I hadn't tried it in a while and t didnt work. Truck started spinning the tires. Rossler transbrake requires d3 for transbrake so it won't engage like this. It didnt use to do that and the only thing I can think of ive changed lately is the neutral safety switch because my reverse lights were staying on. My gears read fine on the dash and truck shifts normal.
What is it showing for Trans Range Position? It should be zero in P and N, -1 in R and 4 in D.
RELAY TERMINALS (4-pin Bosch)
30 → battery +12V (fused 10–15A) → powers transbrake
87 → transbrake wire (goes into the Rossler transbrake)
85 → blue wire from SSR (relay trigger)
86 → chassis ground
im thinking of adding this, seems the ssr nitrous relay has a voltage drop, it goes in 12 and comes out 8v, im thinking something is going on with relay and its not giving enough voltage to trigger transbrake so in a sense i use it as a trigger wire to a relay instead of 12v activation.
So my gears are shifting right. Andrew is see what you were talking about. Problem is the transbrake is still not engaging. Im only getting 6v coming out of the ssr relay, I have 12v going in and 6 coming out. I tried the relay thing I listed above and I still only get 6v. This is how my transbrake is wired, the wire that says optional is not there. Could the ssr relay have went bad or maybe something in the pwm- setting in the tune isnt right causing me to only get 6v coming out?
