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Does this solid state relay vary output voltage based on the PWM input? Can you turn up the duty cycle on the ECU output to raise voltage output from SSR? Does the transbrake require just straight 12v for activation?
Not super familiar with this setup. Just asking basic questions.
Does this solid state relay vary output voltage based on the PWM input? Can you turn up the duty cycle on the ECU output to raise voltage output from SSR? Does the transbrake require just straight 12v for activation?
Not super familiar with this setup. Just asking basic questions.
I was thinking the same thing too but im not too familiar with how to do it, yes transbrake requires only 12v to activate. My tuner seems to think the relay may have went out but im not too sure about that. He also hasnt looked at my tune to verify. I dont know how to turn up the voltage in holley, i see its off of duty cycle but the only thing I could fine was the graph and im not sure if i have to adjust the graph or theres something else hid in holley somewhere i need to change. When I put the rear tires on a lift it seemed to slightly hook back the tires so that to me even more so makes me think its something in the tune.
Hopefully someone can give some input on changing the duty cycle. You might read some of the PWM fan control posts, it might lead you in the right direction for testing/adjusting. You could check to see if that ECU ground output will trigger a traditional relay to throw 12v at the transbrake.
Secondly, if that transbrake is looking for full 12v and you are constantly throwing 5-8v at it, you risk damaging the solenoid.
When you hit the transbrake it should send battery voltage to the tb solenoid. The only time it varies the voltage is when you hit the bump button. If you have clean 12v in, good ground and the holley is activating it it should send 12v out. Unless your bump button is stuck on some how it sounds like the relay is bad.
This is why I used the jeep Cherokee fan relay, they are cheap and pretty reliable. Cheap enough I can keep a spare or 2 😁
I spoke with holley and they said they recommend using a ground to activate a transbrake with terminator x max not a pwm-. Ive seen many guys do it that way though so that throws me through a loop and the bump button isnt getting stuck. Its gotta be something with this pwm- settings, should I change that to ground in holley instead and see if that fixes it?
When you hit the transbrake it should send battery voltage to the tb solenoid. The only time it varies the voltage is when you hit the bump button. If you have clean 12v in, good ground and the holley is activating it it should send 12v out. Unless your bump button is stuck on some how it sounds like the relay is bad.
This is why I used the jeep Cherokee fan relay, they are cheap and pretty reliable. Cheap enough I can keep a spare or 2 😁
I tested it with a multimeter coming out of the ssr relay, theres 12v going in and 6v coming out, when I tested this though I grounded to the truck not to the pwm- just to confirm the voltage reading were accurate.
Hopefully someone can give some input on changing the duty cycle. You might read some of the PWM fan control posts, it might lead you in the right direction for testing/adjusting. You could check to see if that ECU ground output will trigger a traditional relay to throw 12v at the transbrake.
Secondly, if that transbrake is looking for full 12v and you are constantly throwing 5-8v at it, you risk damaging the solenoid.
I did that already, I took a regular 4 pin relay and ran 12v to it and used the wire coming out of the ssr relay as a signal wire and it still only got 6v out of it.
So my gears are shifting right. Andrew is see what you were talking about. Problem is the transbrake is still not engaging. Im only getting 6v coming out of the ssr relay, I have 12v going in and 6 coming out. I tried the relay thing I listed above and I still only get 6v. This is how my transbrake is wired, the wire that says optional is not there. Could the ssr relay have went bad or maybe something in the pwm- setting in the tune isnt right causing me to only get 6v coming out?
this looks like a Devin diagram…. This is exactly how mine is wired and it works perfectly.
confirm in your pin map that the inputs/outputs are correct.
thats exactly the video I watched to wire it and ive watched this video multiple times trying to figure it out, i have a new ssr relay coming tomorrow just to confirm that some how it didnt go out but im really not to confident in that, that relay is maybe 1 year old and for a $130 holley relay I would expect it to last over a year.
I just use the built in "staging" portion in the system icf under basic i/o. I've never seen anybody do a pwm table for the transbrake. I'm sure people do, but the built in stuff works so good i can't see the point. What exactly does it do having it set up like that? It's just a custom output?
I just use the built in "staging" portion in the system icf under basic i/o. I've never seen anybody do a pwm table for the transbrake. I'm sure people do, but the built in stuff works so good i can't see the point. What exactly does it do having it set up like that? It's just a custom output?
thats the way my tuner told me to wire it, he said to watch Devin's video and wire it like that. From my understanding the bump feature is much smoother when using an ssr relay and pwm negative. Mine still is using the staging 1 input though, I wanna say It has advanced 1d and 2d setup when transbrake input is enabled. My bump or tranbrake is not violent, when I bump my truck in it just eases forward.
thats the way my tuner told me to wire it, he said to watch Devin's video and wire it like that. From my understanding the bump feature is much smoother when using an ssr relay and pwm negative. Mine still is using the staging 1 input though, I wanna say It has advanced 1d and 2d setup when transbrake input is enabled. My bump or tranbrake is not violent, when I bump my truck in it just eases forward.
Yeah mine is wired the same way with the jeep cooling fan relay which is a ssr also, just no pwm table so it made me curious. My bump is really smooth also without the table. Just the basic staging stuff in the software. I've seen it where they have the brake line lock on also to make it smoother.
Yeah mine is wired the same way with the jeep cooling fan relay which is a ssr also, just no pwm table so it made me curious. My bump is really smooth also without the table. Just the basic staging stuff in the software. I've seen it where they have the brake line lock on also to make it smoother.
So you just used a ground instead of pwm and used staging 1 for transbrake and staging 2 fof bump? Doing it that way does it allow you to adjust the duty cycle on the bump doing it that way? And I guess that's the way my tuner likes to do it and my tuner is alot more familiar with holley and tuning then I am so majority of the times I take his advice but still question within reason.
It still uses a pwm-. But theres no custom output so no pwm table. I cant remember what it's called but theres a setting under the basic io staging where you can adjust how hard or soft it bumps. I can make it violent all the way to barely creeping. I've heard doing it through the software you may have to adjust it if you raise the launch rpm. So maybe that's why they use a custom output so it's good for a wide range of power. My launch rpm has always been the same any higher and it goes on the bumper. But I may play with the custom output
It still uses a pwm-. But theres no custom output so no pwm table. I cant remember what it's called but theres a setting under the basic io staging where you can adjust how hard or soft it bumps. I can make it violent all the way to barely creeping. I've heard doing it through the software you may have to adjust it if you raise the launch rpm. So maybe that's why they use a custom output so it's good for a wide range of power. My launch rpm has always been the same any higher and it goes on the bumper. But I may play with the custom output
ah ok, doesn't sound to much different then, I guess its all a matter of what you prefer to mess with. The main thing is it works right? I havent tried raising my rpm, it leaves relatively hard where its at, im not putting it on the bumper but then again ive never tried turning up the boost or rpm off the line. My radio flying out and falling beside me on the seat was hard enough of a leave for me. Ill have to try it out just to see if I habe to raise rpm or not.
So I decided to take the remote off the exhaust cutoff and put it on a 3 way switch. I was able to get up position to open, down to close and middle position im trying to make holley activated with 2 outputs, I was able to get to open output to work but not sure who I can switch it to close with the cutout being electric and requiring a reverse polarity to close? How can I wire it to where it switches polarity through the middle position with? I tried wiring 2 relays a few different ways but havent been able to get it to do both? Am I stuff with just having to close it through the down position or is this possible? I tried adding diodes on the outputs thinking maybe it was back feeding but that didnt change anything.
Have you ever checked out my exhaust set up? I think it's pretty killer. 4" dump with a CO2 powered cutout at the end, and a 2 1/4" exhaust that terminates before the rear axle. All controlled by the Holley system. Could be made more analog by substituting a vacuum actuated cutout instead, with no manual control. Here's a link to my thread with a video I made: CO2 Powered Exhaust Cutout Vid - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
does your output open and close on the part of the switch that is for holley and if so how's did your wire it?
up- opens
Middle- on holley but I can only get it to open with tps i cant get it to close with tps
Down- closes
I would think it would take 2 outputs. 1 to activate with high tps and 1 to activate at low tps. Thats the only way I can see it controlling it both ways
Edit didnt see your first post. The other guy is using an air operated valve, so its probably pressure to open it and no pressure to close. So no reversing polarity needed. It's going through the switch i think is your issue. I would have it controlled through the holley and have another input to the holley so I could open it when wanted.
I would think it would take 2 outputs. 1 to activate with high tps and 1 to activate at low tps. Thats the only way I can see it controlling it both ways
Edit didnt see your first post. The other guy is using an air operated valve, so its probably pressure to open it and no pressure to close. So no reversing polarity needed. It's going through the switch i think is your issue. I would have it controlled through the holley and have another input to the holley so I could open it when wanted.
im trying to use 2 outputs, I want to use a 3 ways switch and 2 outputs. I want the top of the switch to open, bottom to close and middle to basically turn off so im using holley at that point and I would be using an open and close output with holley. The close I would use a pwm- so I could control it not closing right away when I let off the throttle.
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