All good now with the new lifters? Have you made a few street hits ? Must be good track weather down there now , time for some 10s ?

 

yeh i think that what it is, a marketing scheme now. Every lifter you see now a days is being called ls7 lifters, and like you said and see the part numbers are the same.

 

honestly man I haven't made another street pull yet, im honestly nervous to go test it because if it does it again its going to frustrate me. My tuner sounded confident that he thought it was the lifter though. Ill make a pull in the next day or two. Also both of our tracks always close down at the end of the year and they spent a few weeks into January working on them so they havent opened back yet. Within a few weeks they should be open and its actually been fairly warm here. Its in the high 70's today.

 

Glad to hear you might be good now.

I like to drive a build a lot before I hit the track, nice to make sure there are no leaks or other issues. I made a bunch of 2nd to 3rd gear pulls in my '67 before it hit the track.

I have my crankcase lines on the front of the valve covers, less likely to suck in a lot of oil during acceleration.

 

man ive went over the truck alot, honestly my first trip to the track with it was probably a bit premature but i was anxious to take it. I definitely dont have any leaks or anything of that sort and my catch can is in the bed of my truck, I have 10an lines running under the truck to the bed and I put a valve and hose on the catch can that runs under the truck as well so its easy to drain, it never has oil. It looks like condensate.

 

Can you guys see these video's? First time uploading to youtube so assuming i did it right. The video on the dyno was before i changed the lifters this past weekend when we were trying to find the problem. You can also hear the crossover pipe exhaust leak in the dyno video which is also fixed now. There's no leak in the video with the exhaust.

 

Wow apparently someone seen them, over 350 views already. Thats crazy

 

Man, I post videos and it seems like nobody sees them, lol

 

the video showing the fender exit is already over 600 views, kind of crazy considering ive never posted a video before and I didnt even say anything in the video just simply showing the exhaust.

 

Post it as a short and it'll get crazy views

 

ah ok, thats what happened then. That's what I did.

 

Oh well there you go. I wasnt able to view the videos here at work.

 

So tonight I plan to add an output to my exhaust cutoff so I can also have it tps activated. This is how I plan to do it so it doesnt back feed, does this sound OK to you guys?
# 1 ill leave the control module for this remote operations hooked as is with 12v and ground but add an 10amp diode on the 12v wire
#2 12v with fuse to terminal 30 on relay
#3 terminal 87 from relay ill add an 10amp diode and tie it into the 12v wire feeding the cutout
#4 terminal 86 ill use a key 12v
#5 terminal 85 ill run to holley output in which ill have it set as a ground that is tps activated at 50%

 

Ok guys I really need your help on this cutout wiring, it's kicking my butt. Im trying to make it to where i can use holley to activate/deactivate through tps but its giving me trouble because the module that controls the remote control feature is reverse polarity so im not understanding how i can send ground and 12v with relay in a sense reversing at the same time I assume the module would habe to disarm while this happens so the signals does cross and blow fuses, this is how I had it wired, id really appreciate the help on this one, im starting to think i may just have to either stick with just the module or remove it and put a switch and tps. The remote feature still works like this but I get nothing from holley, my relays are clicking so they are coming on but nothing happens with the cutout when using tps.
relay #1
Pin 30 → Module output wire #1 (wire going FROM module TO cutout)Pin 87 → GroundPin 87a → 12 VPin 85 → Holley Output #1 (ground trigger)Pin 86 → Switched 12 V
Relay #2 Pin 30 → Module output wire #2 (second wire FROM module TO cutout)Pin 87 → 12 VPin 87a → GroundPin 85 → Holley Output #2 (ground trigger)Pin 86 → Switch

 

Chat gpt is telling me it's need to do all of this, does that sound right? Come on guys i need help on this one. I know some of you are wiring wizards or have done this before.

WHAT YOU NEED
Relay 1 – 5-pin SPDT (ownership A)
Relay 2 – 5-pin SPDT (ownership B)
Relay 3 – DPDT (OPEN)
Relay 4 – DPDT (CLOSE)
RELAY 1 – OWNERSHIP (MOTOR WIRE A)
Pin 30 → Cutout motor wire A
Pin 87a → Varex module motor wire A
Pin 87 → Goes to Relay 3 & Relay 4 – terminal 30A
Pin 85 → Holley Ownership Output (GROUND)
Pin 86 → Switched +12 V
RELAY 2 – OWNERSHIP (MOTOR WIRE B)
Pin 30 → Cutout motor wire B
Pin 87a → Varex module motor wire B
Pin 87 → Goes to Relay 3 & Relay 4 – terminal 30B
Pin 85 → SAME Holley Ownership Output (GROUND)
Pin 86 → SAME switched +12 V
RELAY 3 – DPDT (OPEN)
30A → From Relay 1 pin 87
30B → From Relay 2 pin 87
87A → Fused +12 V
87B → Ground
87aA → Not used
87aB → Not used
85 → Holley OPEN Output (GROUND)
86 → Switched +12 V
RELAY 4 – DPDT (CLOSE)
30A → From Relay 1 pin 87
30B → From Relay 2 pin 87
87A → Ground
87B → Fused +12 V
87aA → Not used
87aB → Not used
85 → Holley CLOSE Output (GROUND)
86 → Switched +12 V
THAT IS EVERY CONNECTION
NOTHING ELSE CONNECTS:
Holley → ONLY pin 85
Motor wires → ONLY pins 30
Battery + → ONLY DPDT pin 87s
Ground → ONLY DPDT pin 87s
HOLLEY OUTPUT COUNT
Output 1 → Ownership (Relay 1 & 2 pin 85)
Output 2 → OPEN (Relay 3 pin 85)
Output 3 → CLOSE (Relay 4 pin 85)

 

Sorry bro, that ***** way over my head

 

Honestly, the remote control seems like a novelty. I'd shitcan it and just hook it up to the Holley. Mine is just hooked up via a 3 position switch. Either off, on, or the Holley controls it.

 

yeh mine too, and seems like a hell out alot of work.

 

yeh im thinking no matter what im just going to be fighting the module, I hooked up two relays with 2 outputs trying to make it work with no luck. I fused everything and put diodes just in case and it didnt work and popped the diodes. The reverse polarity makes its tricky. I took it all back out and just left it on the remote for now until i decide how to do it.

 

@Tommy42088 just do it this way, way easier to reach over and push a switch instead of fiddling with a remote when you want it open.
Best of both worlds.