Projected horsepower
I'm away on vacation but had some time and wifi so decided to check in on you guys. Was thinking about your situation and the very many hyd and solid lifters that I've set up . Never have I set that much preload, maybe on something completely stock . With your spring pressure I doubt you ate getting pump up but depending on actual cam profile , high rpm and possibly high oil pressure it could happen to a point where something is making contact and causing noise accompanied by a misfire. If you had a set of .050 shorter pushrods that would be a cheap and quick experiment. That would put you at what , about .020 - .030 ish , won't stop pump up but far less of a change if it happens. Just thinking here 🤔
Factory LS oil pumps are known for aerating the oil at high rpm versus the Melling HV/HP offerings.
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I don't have a factory oil pump, I have a mellings pump
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I'm away on vacation but had some time and wifi so decided to check in on you guys. Was thinking about your situation and the very many hyd and solid lifters that I've set up . Never have I set that much preload, maybe on something completely stock . With your spring pressure I doubt you ate getting pump up but depending on actual cam profile , high rpm and possibly high oil pressure it could happen to a point where something is making contact and causing noise accompanied by a misfire. If you had a set of .050 shorter pushrods that would be a cheap and quick experiment. That would put you at what , about .020 - .030 ish , won't stop pump up but far less of a change if it happens. Just thinking here 🤔
also what makes you say its alot of preload? Can you explain that because i thought I was on the lighter end?
Last edited by Tommy42088; Dec 29, 2025 at 11:45 AM.
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Have you ever checked out my exhaust set up? I think it's pretty killer. 4" dump with a CO2 powered cutout at the end, and a 2 1/4" exhaust that terminates before the rear axle. All controlled by the Holley system. Could be made more analog by substituting a vacuum actuated cutout instead, with no manual control. Here's a link to my thread with a video I made: CO2 Powered Exhaust Cutout Vid - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
Have you ever checked out my exhaust set up? I think it's pretty killer. 4" dump with a CO2 powered cutout at the end, and a 2 1/4" exhaust that terminates before the rear axle. All controlled by the Holley system. Could be made more analog by substituting a vacuum actuated cutout instead, with no manual control. Here's a link to my thread with a video I made: CO2 Powered Exhaust Cutout Vid - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
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Been doing flat Tippett my whole life but the hyd principles are the same . With 3/8" fine thread studs on a sbc we'd use 0 lash then turn the Allen lock screw in snug , then tighten the adjusting nut , that would equal about an 1/8 of a turn and very little preload. That was for 6500 rpm or circle track stuff. Mild street stuff get 1/4 turn. Honestly don't remember what that yielded in thou but less than. 030" don't have time to do the math now . On a 5000 rpm Olds which was set up with shims and dial gauge would shoot for .020 - .030 . So to me .080 is a ton . Did my cam/springs only 6L the way you described was about 1/2 turn - called it good. No issues but only 6000 rpm and pac 1218s so a different animal. I was thinking if you have 70 -80 thou now and went to 20- 30 you'd have enough to cover the block and head expansion and end up with just a little preload. I don't have a ton of ls experience and would hate for you to buy stuff that doesn't work but it is what I would try
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Been doing flat Tippett my whole life but the hyd principles are the same . With 3/8" fine thread studs on a sbc we'd use 0 lash then turn the Allen lock screw in snug , then tighten the adjusting nut , that would equal about an 1/8 of a turn and very little preload. That was for 6500 rpm or circle track stuff. Mild street stuff get 1/4 turn. Honestly don't remember what that yielded in thou but less than. 030" don't have time to do the math now . On a 5000 rpm Olds which was set up with shims and dial gauge would shoot for .020 - .030 . So to me .080 is a ton . Did my cam/springs only 6L the way you described was about 1/2 turn - called it good. No issues but only 6000 rpm and pac 1218s so a different animal. I was thinking if you have 70 -80 thou now and went to 20- 30 you'd have enough to cover the block and head expansion and end up with just a little preload. I don't have a ton of ls experience and would hate for you to buy stuff that doesn't work but it is what I would try
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So hear me out and tell me what yall thinking, ive been looking over my truck and the 4 inch pipe isnt going to fit past my manifold on the passenger side, the only way it would fit is if I use oval pipe or change my manifold to a log style so it got me thinking. I have a full 3 inch exhaust in my back yard with a magnaflow muffler that was on the truck when it was all motor and I know it fits past the turbo manifold because when I first put the turbo on I was using that exhaust. So what it i put this cut off on my fender exit and keep it there and pie cut the fender exit and weld in my 3 inch exhaust so I can have it back on the truck and also habe the fender exit? The exhaust video earlier made me start thinking.
Last edited by Tommy42088; Dec 29, 2025 at 11:24 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Apr 2006
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It would work similar to mine, but I stayed away from electric for a couple of reasons - The motors are notorious for burning up, and they're fairly slow. My set up is purely mechanical and instantaneous if I want it to be. Should be no reason you can't make it work, though. I personally like the sleeper effect of having the cutout closed and then progressively open with throttle/speed. I have a PWM table set up that controls when mine opens up. If you're just wanting to have a cutout available for the track, it will work just fine.
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It would work similar to mine, but I stayed away from electric for a couple of reasons - The motors are notorious for burning up, and they're fairly slow. My set up is purely mechanical and instantaneous if I want it to be. Should be no reason you can't make it work, though. I personally like the sleeper effect of having the cutout closed and then progressively open with throttle/speed. I have a PWM table set up that controls when mine opens up. If you're just wanting to have a cutout available for the track, it will work just fine.
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Sounds like a good plan. I have the CAN module as well, it made having a Terminator X a lot easier to deal with. I love how I set up my cutout, as it's quieter at idle than my N/A Camaro. If it weren't for the lopey idle, it could almost pass for stock.
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oh yeh man it definitely makes the terminator x much better, i have all my extra inputs/outputs ran to my glove box as well. Everything is separated and rolled up inside of it so if i need a wire all I do is open the glove box and grab one and pull it to wherever I need it. I also have a power supply in there as well so to wire the cutout will be quick. I remember when my truck use to have thag maganflow exhaust. It had a nice sound. Im sure it will be a little quieter with the turbo then it was NA, and my truck has a is a little Lopey as well so im sure you will still hear that. Im off work for 5 days for new years starting tomorrow so ill bring it to my tuners house within those days and see if we can fix the tap issue and weld on the exhaust. I might not accomplish everything but thats my plan at least.
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That's funny, I have my CAN set up identically in my glove box, along with positive and negative buss bars for power. Definitely makes things simpler. I'm going to be installing a driveshaft speed sensor in the next couple of weeks, and I've already got the wiring ran. Just have to cut the lead from the sensor shorter and add a connector.
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That's funny, I have my CAN set up identically in my glove box, along with positive and negative buss bars for power. Definitely makes things simpler. I'm going to be installing a driveshaft speed sensor in the next couple of weeks, and I've already got the wiring ran. Just have to cut the lead from the sensor shorter and add a connector.
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I have a front wheel speed sensor that is using the backs of my wheel studs. Not ideal, as it's low resolution, but it works for me. I may change my setup to use the ABS tone wheel if I can somehow make it work. I have heard using a signal converter is not ideal. I ended up having to switch out my rear pinion yoke to one that had a machined step to mount a reluctor wheel on. Low Doller Motorsports sells inexpensive steel reluctor wheels for this, which is where I sourced mine.
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I have a front wheel speed sensor that is using the backs of my wheel studs. Not ideal, as it's low resolution, but it works for me. I may change my setup to use the ABS tone wheel if I can somehow make it work. I have heard using a signal converter is not ideal. I ended up having to switch out my rear pinion yoke to one that had a machined step to mount a reluctor wheel on. Low Doller Motorsports sells inexpensive steel reluctor wheels for this, which is where I sourced mine.
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Truck isnt doing it on the dyno, one thing my tuner did say is that its dropping off after 6600 so im thinking i just drop the shift points down and let it ride. We had is set at 12 psi on the dyno and it made 630 on 12 psi.
The only thing I can think of that would be different on the street to the dyno would be the oil sloshing to the back of the pan.
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drivers side lifters, coming from the front. We finally got it to make the noise after a full pulls .im going to pull the drivers side hesd tomorrow and bring the whole set off lifters back and get them to replace them. I got them from O'Reillys.
You only need eight lol.