Projected horsepower
Tommy you might benefit from using Andrew to help configure everything, maybe work it out for a couple of hours of help.
Super knowledgeable, I used him to get my car running, he's very patient and knows where all the good BBQ joints are.
Super knowledgeable, I used him to get my car running, he's very patient and knows where all the good BBQ joints are.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 627
From: Louisiana
I'll definitely take all the knowledge I can get, I really want to learn more about the holley myself so I can at least do a good bit of it myself. I know i won't learn that type of knowledge over night but I'd like to at least understand the basics, oh and I live in Louisiana. Id say we have some good bbq here as well.
The transbrake is an input and there are various parameters in the software that get activated "at launch" which means releasing the transbrake. This signal has to be direct, for reasons already mentioned.
The bump feature requires the use of a solid state relay and most people use this:
https://www.holley.com/products/nitr.../parts/554-111
There are various methods of wiring the bump, and in theory it can go to the I/O expansion module, but I wouldn't, because of the latency.
Here are a couple of videos that you might find helpful.
Andrew
The bump feature requires the use of a solid state relay and most people use this:
https://www.holley.com/products/nitr.../parts/554-111
There are various methods of wiring the bump, and in theory it can go to the I/O expansion module, but I wouldn't, because of the latency.
Here are a couple of videos that you might find helpful.
Andrew
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 627
From: Louisiana
The transbrake is an input and there are various parameters in the software that get activated "at launch" which means releasing the transbrake. This signal has to be direct, for reasons already mentioned.
The bump feature requires the use of a solid state relay and most people use this:
https://www.holley.com/products/nitr.../parts/554-111
There are various methods of wiring the bump, and in theory it can go to the I/O expansion module, but I wouldn't, because of the latency.
Here are a couple of videos that you might find helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZvcInnEuys&t=2170s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCbD9vfmcb8&t=14s
Andrew
The bump feature requires the use of a solid state relay and most people use this:
https://www.holley.com/products/nitr.../parts/554-111
There are various methods of wiring the bump, and in theory it can go to the I/O expansion module, but I wouldn't, because of the latency.
Here are a couple of videos that you might find helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZvcInnEuys&t=2170s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCbD9vfmcb8&t=14s
Andrew
Andrew
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 627
From: Louisiana
you think it would delay that bad? And I spoke to my tuner and he did say the same thing as you. He said put the mac valves on the ecu and the dome pressure sensor can go on the module. He also said he knows how to make the module work with critical inputs & outputs too tho. Another question, can I pull 5v reference and ground from my flex fuel sensor so I don't have to run 2 additional wires?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 627
From: Louisiana
Inputs & outputs will be on firewall, added a relay panel to eliminate multiple relays and ran SSR holley nitrous solenoid in glove box and the splitter in the glove box in 12v distribution.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 196
Likes: 55
Couple of tips:
1. You really need to invest in the $106 deutsch connector kit off Amazon or spend 10x on the wire care one. It would clean up that bus bar deal in a big way. If you want everything to match the Holley harness then you want metripack connectors.
2. You can get the same loom as the holley Stuff off eBay for next to nothing. Helps protect the wires through the different pass through and looks nice. By some of the split stuff for retrofitting wiring. By the non-split stuff for new wiring.
3. When you’re on one of the aforementioned websites get some 3:1 adhesive line heat shrink tube,
I like the selection of different diameters and they’re all ~6” long.
4. With as much I/O as you’re running I would consider reaching out to leash electronics (or equivalent) for one of his fuse blocks or relay panels.
hope some of that helps.
1. You really need to invest in the $106 deutsch connector kit off Amazon or spend 10x on the wire care one. It would clean up that bus bar deal in a big way. If you want everything to match the Holley harness then you want metripack connectors.
2. You can get the same loom as the holley Stuff off eBay for next to nothing. Helps protect the wires through the different pass through and looks nice. By some of the split stuff for retrofitting wiring. By the non-split stuff for new wiring.
3. When you’re on one of the aforementioned websites get some 3:1 adhesive line heat shrink tube,
I like the selection of different diameters and they’re all ~6” long.
4. With as much I/O as you’re running I would consider reaching out to leash electronics (or equivalent) for one of his fuse blocks or relay panels.
hope some of that helps.
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Verdad Gallardo Couple of tips:
1. You really need to invest in the $106 deutsch connector kit off Amazon or spend 10x on the wire care one. It would clean up that bus bar deal in a big way. If you want everything to match the Holley harness then you want metripack connectors.
2. You can get the same loom as the holley Stuff off eBay for next to nothing. Helps protect the wires through the different pass through and looks nice. By some of the split stuff for retrofitting wiring. By the non-split stuff for new wiring.
3. When you’re on one of the aforementioned websites get some 3:1 adhesive line heat shrink tube,
I like the selection of different diameters and they’re all ~6” long.
4. With as much I/O as you’re running I would consider reaching out to leash electronics (or equivalent) for one of his fuse blocks or relay panels.
hope some of that helps.
1. You really need to invest in the $106 deutsch connector kit off Amazon or spend 10x on the wire care one. It would clean up that bus bar deal in a big way. If you want everything to match the Holley harness then you want metripack connectors.
2. You can get the same loom as the holley Stuff off eBay for next to nothing. Helps protect the wires through the different pass through and looks nice. By some of the split stuff for retrofitting wiring. By the non-split stuff for new wiring.
3. When you’re on one of the aforementioned websites get some 3:1 adhesive line heat shrink tube,
I like the selection of different diameters and they’re all ~6” long.
4. With as much I/O as you’re running I would consider reaching out to leash electronics (or equivalent) for one of his fuse blocks or relay panels.
hope some of that helps.
I much prefer vendors like Waytekwire, wirecare, prowireusa, and Mouser. You can get genuine Aptiv (Delphi), Amphinol (Deutsch), 3M, Molex, TE, etc.. for not much more than the sketchy Chinese stuff.
Andrew
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 196
Likes: 55
I agree with the sentiment if not the actual recommendations. I am an Amazon Prime member, but I pick and choose what I buy carefully. One thing that I would never buy is any sort of automotive wiring supplies. The Amazon Deutsch connector kits are Chinese knock offs, which is why they are cheap. I suppose the work OK, but I would not trust them.
I much prefer vendors like Waytekwire, wirecare, prowireusa, and Mouser. You can get genuine Aptiv (Delphi), Amphinol (Deutsch), 3M, Molex, TE, etc.. for not much more than the sketchy Chinese stuff.
Andrew
I much prefer vendors like Waytekwire, wirecare, prowireusa, and Mouser. You can get genuine Aptiv (Delphi), Amphinol (Deutsch), 3M, Molex, TE, etc.. for not much more than the sketchy Chinese stuff.
Andrew
Andrew, I would definitely be in the same boat if I wired people’s cars for a living like you’re doing. Usually the price point and convenience of the amazon/ebay stuff gets people on the right track for cleaning up wiring, and they can go from there on what does or doesn’t work. Up to the OP in this case.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2022
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From: Louisiana
Got rid of the electric tape and put engine harness tape, put the bump button down low, ive had plenty buttons down there over the time so ignore the old holes, all that old wiring is gone and I'll get a new panel eventually, put a power block in and bolted down the air tank. I'll wire it up tomorrow
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2022
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From: Louisiana
Was hoping to get some pictures up today of my wiring complete with inputs & outputs but to my surprise when I opened the box that came from holley nothing I ordered was in the box. I received a bunch of hyperspark stuff so I may be a few days out now trying to get this resolved.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,776
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From: Louisiana
This is my wiring schematics.
made labels and put it on the form the module came with and then added the ecu pin out to the bottom and noted module number on the top then laminated.
Now put this into an excel spread sheet to keep on your phone for troubleshooting at the track.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 627
From: Louisiana