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Yea all nozzles aren’t the same, that’s for sure. I’m def. not claiming to know what other company’s nozzles flow at pressure.
I strictly used the old school DEVILS OWN style wall mount (5 micron) irrigation nozzles. They were all rated at 100psi. (Most irrigation nozzles are). We use to pick them up for $5 each at a garden supply site. The price of some of those kits “meth nozzles” is insanity! Esp. the AEM stuff. Smoke and mirrors if you ask me! Its just a misting nozzle!
Larger you go on the nozzles harder it will be for the pump to keep up and the lower the pressure will be. (another bonus of spraying pre turbo). Most of those 200-300psi pumps won’t pump anywhere near that with a pair of “larger” nozzles inline. Believe I saw 160ish with twin 10gph nozzles on the devils own “250psi” pump.
Only way to know for sure if you have unknown nozzles and pressures it to flow what you have in a container of some sort and either weigh or measure the CC per min @ X pressure. Make sure to get a pressure gauge with a “snubber” on it as well. Otherwise the pressure is all over the place.
That’s why I liked the Devils own stuff. They listed the pumps flow vs pressure. Same with nozzles and all. They took all the guess work out of it. Looks like they are only in the UK now. Want to say told old school pumps only flowed like 40gph at 100psi. Flow dropped like a rock @ 200+psi.
Some of the new “300psi” pumps w the big heat sinks claim they flow 30gph @ 200psi. Which is pretty dang good!
Question, what are the limitations of 2” intercooler piping? It would be easier if I had to use 2” vs 2.5” to snake it down and to the front if I tried to do a FMIC. I don’t think it would be a restriction? Iis It anything like a turbo hotside where even 2” supports a lot? Using smaller piping and reducers off the turbo and TB I could connect to 2” and run that out front. Again I don’t think I’ll ever be able to push more than 600hp and 8psi through this.
Took the car out for its mayden voyage and got some logs.
60mm gate on the crossover off driver side header and 4.2psi spring installed in gate.
I saw a max boost of 111kpa or 1-2psi.
IATs were around 150 while cruising and driving around and in the logs I saw a max IAT of 160-179*F and I believe the 2 GPH meth was activated. This was after 30min of driving and good and heat soaked with a few higher throttle hits. Logs show slow increases of IAT temp and no dips which I kind of expected. I will likely swap the nozzle out for larger and see what it does. This was 6” from the TB.
I need to figure out why I’m only seeing 1-2psi boost too. I was kinda expecting higher boost given the location of the gate. I assume the higher BP which I suspect is 2:1-2.5:1 is assisting in opening the gate. I will have to add the 6.2psi spring and see what it does.
Pulled the gate and added the 6.2psi spring so 10psi open pressure which I have confirmed on the bench. Upped the 2gph to 5gph nozzle same location for now. Looked at my fuel learn tables and it looked like I tickled 126kpa about 4psi but must have been when I wasn’t logging. It still consistently only makes 109-111kpa.
I was seeing 150ish IAT cruising and got to thinking about how I can get cool air to the turbo to help. I came up with this quickly but haven’t tested. The top would seal to the hood and the Aarm is open there for the wheel well.
I think you'd be fine with the smaller intake piping since the turbo is so close to the engine.
The larger stuff would probably be more beneficial with higher horsepower, higher flowing applications.
It'd be cool to fab an air duct from under the car to the turbo, kinda like a cooling duct for the brakes.
What's everybody's thoughts on those Prometh pumps?? Anybody ever use them?? They claim some decent flow
I was looking hard at Prometh before going with Julio's product, the guys at Prometh were very helpful and answered all my questions.
It was all the guys I talked to using Julio's stuff that swayed me.
Question, what are the limitations of 2” intercooler piping? It would be easier if I had to use 2” vs 2.5” to snake it down and to the front if I tried to do a FMIC. I don’t think it would be a restriction? Iis It anything like a turbo hotside where even 2” supports a lot? Using smaller piping and reducers off the turbo and TB I could connect to 2” and run that out front. Again I don’t think I’ll ever be able to push more than 600hp and 8psi through this.
Not a good idea IMO. Exhaust pipe sizing id MUCH different due to the temperature of gasses passing through. Idea with the intake tract is to size it to the NA motor needs. If you necked the factory TB down to 2" with say a coupler and a few feet of piping it would drop the NA hp considerably. Which will in turn drop the amount of power per pound you make. Once the air density changes with boost it will be able to make up for it. But the motor will be down on power NA, so it will make boost more slowly and make less power per pound.
Could always try it and see how you like it. But I think it will be less than ideal.
Quick question about a manual boost controller. I heard the manual controller requires pre TB compressor air? Why can't I use the current manifold line I have run to the back of the intake? I Tee'd off the manifold and ran a line to the BOV and a line to the wastegate. I was thinking I could splice into that line and add the manual controller which I could run to the top of the gate. Thoughts?
Quick question about a manual boost controller. I heard the manual controller requires pre TB compressor air? Why can't I use the current manifold line I have run to the back of the intake? I Tee'd off the manifold and ran a line to the BOV and a line to the wastegate. I was thinking I could splice into that line and add the manual controller which I could run to the top of the gate. Thoughts?
I watched a video and it looked complicated as hell. Plus how many inputs/outputs, pressure transducers?
if I could just run spring it would be nice and simple. I’m never gona change it so I’d rather keep it less complicated.
That's fair, is there no spring combo that will get where you want to be?
I ran on gate for a year or so, boost was a little slower to come in than with an EBC, but you might want that to keep that IRS intact lol.
So I heard back from Motion today. They are going to ship me out a new Standard LO RIFE sensor for free. Said they are getting the same issues with the TermX, holley HP and Dominator with the HI IAT sensor.. the standard works fine on all platforms. The HI IAT is the one that seems to be having issues. They are working on it but in the mean time they are sending me the standard so I can get it up and running. Good dudes to work with I must say.
So I heard back from Motion today. They are going to ship me out a new Standard LO RIFE sensor for free. Said they are getting the same issues with the TermX, holley HP and Dominator with the HI IAT sensor.. the standard works fine on all platforms. The HI IAT is the one that seems to be having issues. They are working on it but in the mean time they are sending me the standard so I can get it up and running. Good dudes to work with I must say.
Yea they definitely stand behind their products. I had a CTS sensor come apart, it missed the epoxy part and I sent them an email with pics and they sent me another CTS sensor up here in Canada free of charge
That's fair, is there no spring combo that will get where you want to be?
I ran on gate for a year or so, boost was a little slower to come in than with an EBC, but you might want that to keep that IRS intact lol.
I'm looking for springs, Summit only lists the two springs it comes with and nothing is available. Same springs come with the VS racing gen 3 version. I found that VS offers a stiffer outer spring in 8, 11, 18psi only as cracking pressure. I would need to figure out what the current 10psi gets me, once I know that I can prob go with the 8psi which with the 4.6psi inner will net me 12.6psi or I can step up to 11psi outer and with 4.6psi be about 15.5psi which I think will be too much. the 8psi is outer would be close but really depends what the combo puts out. I agree on the EBC, on my firebird there is a noticeable difference in how quick it spools and how hard the boost seems to hit vs when I have it turned off and run off spring.
Agreed on the IRS lol. Tranny is built for 550hp, converter good for 650hp, rear end good for 400-450 without sticky tires/hookup. Its a stock rebuilt 80-82 aluminum batt wing rear with 3.73s. I figured 525hp crank and 15% loss through the 2400stall 10" converter, 700r4 and IRS rear nets me about 450 rwhp.
I'm looking for springs, Summit only lists the two springs it comes with and nothing is available. Same springs come with the VS racing gen 3 version. I found that VS offers a stiffer outer spring in 8, 11, 18psi only as cracking pressure. I would need to figure out what the current 10psi gets me, once I know that I can prob go with the 8psi which with the 4.6psi inner will net me 12.6psi or I can step up to 11psi outer and with 4.6psi be about 15.5psi which I think will be too much. the 8psi is outer would be close but really depends what the combo puts out. I agree on the EBC, on my firebird there is a noticeable difference in how quick it spools and how hard the boost seems to hit vs when I have it turned off and run off spring.
Agreed on the IRS lol. Tranny is built for 550hp, converter good for 650hp, rear end good for 400-450 without sticky tires/hookup. Its a stock rebuilt 80-82 aluminum batt wing rear with 3.73s. I figured 525hp crank and 15% loss through the 2400stall 10" converter, 700r4 and IRS rear nets me about 450 rwhp.
Cool, well it sounds like you're in for a little trial and error to find the right combo of springs but I'm sure you'll get it.
Something tells me you're gonna really good at swapping out WG springs.
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I ran on gate for a year or so, boost was a little slower to come in than with an EBC,.
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. I have read this before, but can't quite wrap my head around the concept.
Can you explian WHY an EBC or other boost control device in tandem with a weaker ( lower pound rated) spring would spool QUICKER ?
Thanks.
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