Still Over Boosting....help!!!!
08-15-2004, 12:19 AM
#1
Still Over Boosting....help!!!! ok i took the waste gate off and sanded off the rust and made sure it was free. all parts were all cleansed and lubed and moved freely as individual units, did not try to move them as a whole. i assumed it should work as a unit. any ways. put the waste gate back on and still over boosting according to the gauge. this thing feels like a dog. it wont even turn the tires over from a slow roll. in indy when it was tuned i couldnt even give it any gas and hold it on the road. from a 70 kick in 3rd it was all over the road. tires spinning and throwing rob and me all over the place. i dont know what else to do. any info would be nice.
08-15-2004, 09:53 AM
#5
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i have a severe boost drop problem and am still working on it,i think i have it figgured out,if/when i get it done ill let ya know and maybe you can send me some pics of how the kit is set up and ill see how it looks compared to mine,also are you running a boost controller, if so which one
08-15-2004, 09:56 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Transdamit
i have a severe boost drop problem and am still working on it,i think i have it figgured out,if/when i get it done ill let ya know and maybe you can send me some pics of how the kit is set up and ill see how it looks compared to mine,also are you running a boost controller, if so which one
It's not boost spike or boost creep.
The kit worked perfectly at Robs, he trailored it home, tried to drive it the next day and this is what he's dealing with.
He's tried it with no MBC and MBC, same result.
08-15-2004, 10:50 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
He's not having boost drop problems, never has. It's overboosting. This means the boost climbs and climbs, never falls, as long as you're into the throttle.
It's not boost spike or boost creep.
The kit worked perfectly at Robs, he trailored it home, tried to drive it the next day and this is what he's dealing with.
He's tried it with no MBC and MBC, same result.
It's not boost spike or boost creep.
The kit worked perfectly at Robs, he trailored it home, tried to drive it the next day and this is what he's dealing with.
He's tried it with no MBC and MBC, same result.
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it will come back down eventually.
08-15-2004, 12:29 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Unusual T/A
Why not use a turbosmart eboost?
He's ran the setup with and without the MBC and still gets overboost, not spike or creep.
It worked fine after it was dyno tuned, put on the trailor, brought to his place and then it doesn't work, regardless if MBC is on or not.
08-15-2004, 12:36 PM
#11
it feels slower. and eboost is not an option as of right now. i dont think the controller is the problem. i can not even turn the tires over from a slow roll but it is still holding oil pressure fine and no smoke anywhere. and as far as it coming back down i bet my life it will come back down when a rod goes through the side of the block. need some real advice please
08-15-2004, 03:00 PM
#13
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
you got the pcv set up straight right?
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
try a lighter w/g spring?
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
hmm what is the rest of your exhaust situation? sounds like something is stopped up?
08-15-2004, 03:01 PM
#14
I still believe it has something to do with the WG even though he cleaned and lubed it.
Daniel is going to hook up a different boost gauge to be sure the current boost gauge is reading boost correctly. If it is, I'm still saying it's the WG.
That's the only scenario that can explain overboosting. If the WG doesn't open then you can't bleed off excess boost pressure thus boost just continues to climb.
Daniel is going to hook up a different boost gauge to be sure the current boost gauge is reading boost correctly. If it is, I'm still saying it's the WG.
That's the only scenario that can explain overboosting. If the WG doesn't open then you can't bleed off excess boost pressure thus boost just continues to climb.
08-15-2004, 03:25 PM
#15
Daniel, here's something to consider:
A wastegate can be caused to stick in two areas. The shaft enters the exhaust housing, the other end of which is attached to the actual valve. The shaft can become stuck inside the housing. Remedies include doses of Liquid Wrench or penetrating oils while GENTLY tapping around the area. Use common sense so as not to tap so hard as to crack the housing! Do this while pressure is applied with your pressure tester, and you may actually be able to see the rod "pop" free as it becomes unstuck. Also common is a wastegate becoming stuck due to carbon build-up on or beside the valve seat. If this is the case, shame on you, since regular heavy boosting will usually prevent this from happening! Again, applying penetrating fluids to the valve seat while GENTLY, GINGERLY tapping about the area will often free the valve. You may want to try a light tap on the valve itself to break the carbon build-up.
A wastegate can be caused to stick in two areas. The shaft enters the exhaust housing, the other end of which is attached to the actual valve. The shaft can become stuck inside the housing. Remedies include doses of Liquid Wrench or penetrating oils while GENTLY tapping around the area. Use common sense so as not to tap so hard as to crack the housing! Do this while pressure is applied with your pressure tester, and you may actually be able to see the rod "pop" free as it becomes unstuck. Also common is a wastegate becoming stuck due to carbon build-up on or beside the valve seat. If this is the case, shame on you, since regular heavy boosting will usually prevent this from happening! Again, applying penetrating fluids to the valve seat while GENTLY, GINGERLY tapping about the area will often free the valve. You may want to try a light tap on the valve itself to break the carbon build-up.
08-15-2004, 04:52 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
Take the entire wastegate off of the car. It's gonna be a PITA but it's gonna be the best way in the end and will end up saving you even more time.
I'm confused. So Kaos DID or DID NOT completely remove the WG from the manifold and clean it? If he didn't, he needs to. I am VERY convinced that the WG valve is stuck.
Also, regarding not having enough power to spin the tires....then something else has happened also. If it was overboosting as you said, it only takes a split second for the engine to go unsafely lean. Though it is reassuring to hear that it doesn't smoke or anything.
If it did go lean, it may have hurt a spark plug, causing the loss in power. While you are removing the WG for cleaning, check the plugs and wires closely.
If after that you still have the same exact problem, call me.
08-15-2004, 05:00 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Rob Raymer
(sorry, just got back in town a few hours ago)
I'm confused. So Kaos DID or DID NOT completely remove the WG from the manifold and clean it? If he didn't, he needs to. I am VERY convinced that the WG valve is stuck.
I'm confused. So Kaos DID or DID NOT completely remove the WG from the manifold and clean it? If he didn't, he needs to. I am VERY convinced that the WG valve is stuck.
I agree with needing to pull all the plugs.
Daniel, make sure all the wires are fine as Rob said, be sure they're not lying on the manifold or too close.
08-15-2004, 05:05 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Rob Raymer
Though it is reassuring to hear that it doesn't smoke or anything.
PS, all my info I'm providing is from Daniel. I have not personally been involved with the diagnostics on-site, per se.