LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

Lots of just plain BAD information in here from people with no experience boosting c5's.

Supercharger always boosting?

Turbo wears out the engine faster?

Turbo reasonably priced on c5's?

Vortech has to tap into the oil system?

8-rib setup mandatory?


You guys have got to be kidding. Where do you get this stuff?

9silverbird8

iTrader: (19)

Most people got it from 2005........

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

Didn't make any sense in 2000 even

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

I will be the first to tell you the pros and cons when I am complete, Hopefully here in a couple of months. My LT4 had a supercharger, D1, 383 cu in, all of the good stuff, Made 648 RWHP / 612 Tq on pump and 722 RWHP / 713 Tq on the Fast Gas. on 12lbs, Loved it, Only boosted when you got on it, not all the time as people say,spool up was instant. This was a DD and I mean not only to the local club meets but I drove 400 mile round trips. I did worry about the tension on the crank nose since I had to run a 12 rib setup to prevent slippage and the belt had to be banjo tight!!. With proper gearing, tire size, and pulley sizes you can get exactly the boost vs rpm you are looking for. As said supposedly the parasitic drag of the supercharger robs quite a bit of horsepower, in my case I heard as much as up to 100 HP at WOT. I am now going Turbo, everything the same sans cam of course and headder arrangement. when finished I will post up the number and manners of the new setup........Stay tuned......

will82

Where? PERSONAL EXPERIENCE.

I personally, and MANY others, have had belt issues. I had better luck with the ECS bracket after switching from an A&A bracket, but still some slip.

Some people luck out and have no issues. Just like some people luck out and don't break their stock transmissions. However, for peace of mind and much higher reliability, and 8 rib setup or the Flip drive setup is key. There's a reason Cartek developed the flip drive, DEMAND for a solution to a COMMON problem with ALL of the Blower kits due to the FACTORY belt setup which lends itself to belt slip, especially at the crank, when a blower is added to the mix.

Glad you're one of the lucky ones who is running a traditional 6-rib setup with no problems. Good for you. My advice stands, and it is based on personal experience as well as the experiences of many others.

One of the first guys to install Cartek's new setup has the kit you have. He was not having any major problems, but some minor slip. More boost and more power with the re-worked belt setup. Why? Because even with A&A bracket version #2,085, there are STILL belt-slip issues with these cars because of the factory design. Even the highest quality kits like the new A&A kits don't change this, belt slip occurs.

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

Do you think you might be making some assumptions?

I went with the 8-rib right off the bat...lol. I am just saying there are plenty of people doing fine with the 6-rib. It depends on rpm/power level mostly.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

You can read this forum all day long about this stuff. Do your own research, opinions are biased based on whatever the one posting has or wants. But, there are some simple facts to your questions.

Unfortunately, alot of this boils down to money and how much you're willing to spend and how much power you want. That really is where the project begins and ends.

Turbo isn't really my cup of tea for what it's worth though.

I don't particularly care for front mounted intercoolers, turbo manifolds, tapping into my oil pan or just dumping oil back into my cylinder heads, or rear mounted turbos.

I love my setup, and it's fairly easy to install on a C5, and makes awesome power. I could easily DD with my Magnacharger, yet blow the tires off at will, and the sound is awesome!

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

Can someone explain this. Here are two dyno sheets from other LS1tech members that I saved from over the years. One is "A DEE O" CAS twin turbo SS and the other is SSmokin 01 D1SC SS.
A DEE O's CAS twin turbo
stock 346
9.2:1cr
Absolute Speed 6.0 heads
TR224 cam
LS6 intake
6 speed, 3:73s, 12 bolt
15 psi
10.8@132
Full weight

SSmokin 01 D1SC
D1SC
forged 347
9:1cr
ported LS1 heads
TR227 cam
LS6 intake
6 speed, 3:73, 12 bolt
14psi
trapped 134 & 135mph
3750lbs

The turbo car denfinately has more in the mid range but peak power is exactly the same. Im not seeing the power loss that it takes to run the D1SC.
here are the threads of the two cars. From what im learning, the turbos will make alot more mid range power, but peak power will be similar
and track times will be similar. note the trap speeds of the two cars.

I have a few more setup comparisons like this with the same basic outcome.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...eg-timing.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...o-results.html

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Turbos do give more area under the curve and looks like quite a bit more torque in that comparison. Stll even with same boost hard to compare directly. Different turbos and super head units have different airflow numbers. That is a big d1, run a smaller p1sc or p600 and get different numbers at same psi.

Both setups work great. Peak power is very similar. On the street going up thru the gears is most noticeable diffference. Properly sized turbo will come on sooner and with lot more power than the centrifical. But if you are in higher gears and can gear down then that helps both the turbos spool up and the centrificals make more pounds of boost.

Its all personal choice. And you could be losing 100 hp on the super but dont really matter if it has enough airflow at 15psi to yield the power a person is looking for target then no big deal.
But pretty sure its easier to make huge power from turbos over centrificals but they of course make some pretty big centrificals too.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

Not necessarily. I think my graph speaks for itself. You can have your turbo, because I have badass low end torque! Go ahead and try and take me on the street and see what happens. I may not make the high numbers with my setup, but much more than that, traction becomes a huge issue. Besides, you don't want higher gears with FI, you won't stay in the boost long. High gears are for high revving H/C combos. Granted, you can't beat a pair of turbos on the strip, I'll admit it, but he's not looking for an all out strip car I don't think.

Why even all this talk about high boost numbers? If your set up properly you don't need high boost numbers. After all, boost is just unused high pressure inside your intake.

6.57 lbs. here to be exact.

Can't beat a roots for low end torque. I'm really looking forward to running a $100,000 09 ZR1.

You can't even spell centrifugal.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

All this worry about stock rear ends is ridiulous too. I know guys that have put down approx. 800 RWHP on the stock rear end. It's all in how your drive it and the tires and launches your doing. Big dumps with a grippy clutch and sticky tires....yeah, you should expect it to go, and if it does, well, that's on you. That's just common sense. Stock T-56's are good for over 500 RWHP easily, autos...ummmm, not so much, especially with a stall converter.

You have to build the car as a complete system for what you're trying to achieve.

Go ahead with your FI setup. IMHO, if you can afford FI, you can afford a built rear end in the event yours grenades. It's really simple, you just have to know the cars strengths and weaknesses and hope for the best. Regular maintenance can go a long way in this regaard.

And another thing, about ringlands. If your rings aren't properly spaced for your setup, they're going to bind, and go. That's just the name of the game. Don't blame your engine because you tried to go ridiculous and missed a minor detail like ring gap and your engine let go. Regardless, the LS1 can take a huge beating and keep asking for more.

Around 500 RWHP, you hit a certain level of budget. Anything beyond that, the dollar amount you're going to put into the car seriously goes up. You're looking at forged internals and possibly bigger cubes and an other than aluminum block. That's when things get expensive.

You can run 500 RWHP very reliable with the proper supporting modifications.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I stand corrected IT IS CENTRIFUGAL.

And I was talking area under the curve and all that for centrifugal supers not roots or twin screw. We all know that roots have great low end torque although most suffer in the top end . The twin screws do better.Seen many many dyno graphs .There is even a book with just ls1 dyno graphs of various supers,turbos,nitrous etc.

Turbos can also come in very low on the rpm band especially when properly sized with larger engines. Seeing full boost with larger engine on smaller twins at 2500 rpm is not out of the question which can also give massive torque numbers. Big advantage to turbo is you can ramp in the boost with gears,rpm ,etc so you can get traction. Your not exactly going to be hooking up your 500rwhp on regular street tires either, both higher power turbo car and the roots or twin screw car are going to require serious tires like et street radials to have any chance of hooking up. But ramping in the boost is a big advantage over fixed power supercharged setups.

There is a local magnacharged lingenfelter vette in my city and I know the guy pretty good.We have played a bit and he does spin his street tires totally off and not sure the boost he is running never asked. I think his power level were a bit more than yours.
On pure street tires my car is not much better if you dont' ramp in the boost.

Basically on the street these super powerful super low rpm torque monsters are not necessarily very fast. Much slower cars with traction can beat them.
Track of course another story. There you run drag tires if you want any traction and there it does make sense to run 600,700, even more rwhp. Which is as simply as turning up the dial on most turbo setups. 500rwhp is baby hp for most turbo setups. I have seen the big power numbers from the turbos and centrifugals dont think so much from the smaller roots . I have owned a Big Block Chevy roots blower in the past. It was awesome sounding and had tons of low end torque. It also had no intercooler so didn't like hot weather much.

Also didn't follow the gear thing you were saying too much. Turbos will keep boost nicely on auto cars when shfiting gears and will also keep up the boost in manual cars if you powershift,don't lift the gas. And you can use things like two step or antilag to build a lot of boost off the line .Auto cars build pretty good boost anyway off the line with decent stall. Manual cars benefit more from two steps .Both can use antilag devices.

And I have nothing against all the power adders. Supers, turbos, nitrous. LIke them all and have owned most of them. They each have their pros and cons.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

You're definitely right about having alot of adjustability with a Turbo setup and the peak HP you can achieve. Having turbos is almost like having a variable displacement engine. How high you can turn it up and keep the engine together is the big thing. The HP is in a sense "free".

As I said earlier though, once you start treading water in the 600 RWHP mark, the cost can get ridiculous. Numbers like that just aren't in the budget of the average person.

About the gearing comment I made, I was mostly referring to street use. When you can build lots of low end torque and are having traction issues on the street already, there's really no point in going to a taller gear and having to shift more often. 3.42 is a decent compromise between traction, acceleration, and mileage I could easily blow of the old 555's I had, the BFG DR's, not so much on a roll.

The OP wasn't really specific on what he wanted the car to do.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I did some reading on the magnacharger site. Their new bigger turbos look really powerful
.But no idea if they would ever fit under the f body cowl.

Also looks like the magnachargers are running intercoolers now.

Even looks like the magnachargers still go up pretty high in rpm, so think the advtanges of the twin screws over them is likely getting slimmer ,maybe only if guy want to go way up in the rpm band.

Anyway its great that they got the magnacharger option for the ls1 now. Hopefully they will make one for the lt1 cars at some point in time. Was going to go procharger on my 96z but might go magnacharger if they brought out a kit.

As I said I like all the power adders. Brunettes,blonds ,redheads..all good..Turbos ..supers nitrous..all good!