Incon car blowing smoke(oil) through exhaust, need help
12-08-2005, 10:56 PM
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Incon car blowing smoke(oil) through exhaust, need help My car was a little lean so I thought it was the motor, but I did a leakdown test and checked the plugs and it's fine. It's either the turbos or scavenge pump. The turbos don't even have a thousand miles on them(so I don't think its them unless like a seal broke or something). I am using the upgraded weldon pump. I installed it the way it comes right out of the box and wired it straight off the battery to make sure it has power. I thought I remember someone posting that you have to do something for the pump(like a mod) to make it run better but I'm not sure. I think it might also be a build up in crankcase pressure since I'm running 15-17#'s of boost. Any ideas on what it might be(turbos, scavenge pump, crankcase pressure) and possible fixes for the problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
12-08-2005, 11:28 PM
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It was smoking kind of bad. Then I drove it about thirty miles and it was idling for a while and then the smoking stopped. I don't have any little scavenge tanks, just the weldon pump itself but no tanks.
Last edited by chris's ws6; 12-09-2005 at 07:21 AM.
12-09-2005, 02:54 AM
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"I thought I remember someone posting that you have to do something for the pump(like a mod) to make it run better but I'm not sure... "
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=weldon
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=weldon
12-09-2005, 08:31 AM
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Is it white smoke, blueish smoke, what color? blueish means turbo is on its way out.
maybe possibly you blew a head gasket? Does the car run like **** at all?
maybe possibly you blew a head gasket? Does the car run like **** at all?
12-09-2005, 08:43 AM
#7
Since you don’t have the drain tanks on your system, when you turn off your car the oil is sitting in the turbos and coking up. The next time you start the car it will take 5 to 10 min. of driving to burn off the coked oil. Also if you park on a hill with the nose of the car pointing up the oil will drain back into the turbos, where it would usually go into the drain canisters. When it backs up in that direction it usually the passenger turbo that gets the oil. You can put a one-way check valve in the system to stop the oil from draining back from the pump. I have never blown a pump yet but I here from Cablebandit it’s like the bug fogger guy driving by, the smoke billows out like you blew the motor.
I think it’s probably just the oil drain problem. Those drain canisters sit to low for me so what I did, and it seams to work very well is; I run the oil pump of the same hot wire as the fuel pump. As you know the fuel pump primes it self for about 3 seconds when you hit the key, so when I shut off my car I hit the key 3 times (just turn it enough to power everything up not restart the car obviously) This runs the pump for an extra 9 seconds and sucks the rest of the oil out of the turbos….. as far as I can tell,…….. because I never have the problem unless I forget to do that after driving.
I plan on doing up a turbo timer that runs the pump for 10 seconds when you shut the car off eventually.
I think it’s probably just the oil drain problem. Those drain canisters sit to low for me so what I did, and it seams to work very well is; I run the oil pump of the same hot wire as the fuel pump. As you know the fuel pump primes it self for about 3 seconds when you hit the key, so when I shut off my car I hit the key 3 times (just turn it enough to power everything up not restart the car obviously) This runs the pump for an extra 9 seconds and sucks the rest of the oil out of the turbos….. as far as I can tell,…….. because I never have the problem unless I forget to do that after driving.
I plan on doing up a turbo timer that runs the pump for 10 seconds when you shut the car off eventually.
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12-09-2005, 08:59 AM
#8
good idea sTU with the timer. Mine never smokes but i do have the little tanks. Now if you unplug the scavenge pump, it will pump oil into your hoses and exhaust. I am telling you, it will take a few secs but that car will look like it is on fire there is so much smoke. Try what stu said, before you get out of the car, turn the key on (but not to start) and let the pump suck the oil from the turbos. I bet that fixes it. if so then you need to install the tanks or do something like Stu is saying with a timer...or just hit the key a few times before you get out. Oh, I am jealous you have the S2 turbos!! i'd like to have gotten those.
12-11-2005, 08:52 PM
#10
In the year I've had my car, it has fogged for mosquitos a couple times. Since it always went away quickly, I attributed it to the pump loosing prime after an oil change, sitting too long, whatever. Saturday I found that my passenger side IC was full of oil so I started looking at the ways things are hooked up. The return line off that turbo went uphill over the crossmember and rack on the way to the pump which was on the level of the drivers side turbo but above the pass side. The weldon FAQ #7 states that the pump is not designed to lift oil so I modified the original bracket sto lower the pump and I rerouted the lines so that there was no uphill battle. I dont like having the line under the k-member but the pass turbo is sitting on the ground.
Unfortunately the fix was a day late and a dollar short cause the IC is full of oil again after 20 runs at the strip today.
Unfortunately the fix was a day late and a dollar short cause the IC is full of oil again after 20 runs at the strip today.
Last edited by SS2win; 12-12-2005 at 09:43 AM. Reason: found the faq
12-12-2005, 01:23 PM
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I don't have anything to relieve crankcase pressure. I was going to order some stuff from summit for that but decided to go with a different kit altogether(PTK). I want more than 800rwhp. So I am going to be putting the car back to stock until the PTK kit arrives. When I take the kit off I will see whats up with it. As for now if anyone knows someone that wants an incon kit send me a pm with an offer. Thanks for all the help.
12-12-2005, 01:31 PM
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I dont know why more people dont do it but a vacuum pump kit would cure all those ills...
A belt drive pump....
You would still need the tanks to catch oil on shutdown but it would scavenge the turbos and relieve crankcase pressure... Actually create a crankcase vaccum to help the ring seal which means even less blowby not just clearing it out...
A belt drive pump....
You would still need the tanks to catch oil on shutdown but it would scavenge the turbos and relieve crankcase pressure... Actually create a crankcase vaccum to help the ring seal which means even less blowby not just clearing it out...
12-13-2005, 09:04 PM
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cablebandit: we have the same size turbos, mine just has a higher ar on the exhaust side. My turbos will only give you another 35-50rwhp. You are thinking of the stage three turbos which have a larger compressor wheel. It would be cheaper for you to send the turbos you have now to be modified to the stage three specs. The ones you have now and the stage three's have the same exhaust wheel but the stage three's have a larger compressor wheel. They would simply take your turbos, install the larger compressor wheel and machine the compressor housing(the one's you have currently) so the new wheel will fit inside and the new turbos will give you an extra 150-200rwhp and will spool about 500-600rpms later. So if your car makes full boost by 3,000rpm now, with the larger turbos it would make full boost by 3,500-3,600rpm and will make an extra 150-200rwhp. Hope that helps.
12-13-2005, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
oh hell yeah...who can do that?
Get a hold of robert here...
TOP TOP notch...
Its exactly like a comon mitsubishi upgrade.
Have him do this compressor wheel.
http://linux.forcedperformance.net/m...Code=DSM-Turbo
Umm that is the price for a complete turbo.... A wheel swap, VSR balance and compressor cover mod would be Considerably less.. Its all the same work they do to build that stocking model just reusing your housings and CHRA.
He might even have some other suggestions..
12-13-2005, 09:58 PM
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Almost any good turbo shop that does machining and works with ball bearing turbos. Try and make a new thread to see if someone has the part numbers(new compressor wheel). Like I said though it uses your center sections, exhaust wheel, and exhaust housing. All they do is machine your compressor housing and give you a larger compressor wheel.
12-13-2005, 10:08 PM
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Oops, I forgot to add something. Once you do this your intercoolers will limit you on power. Tom Porter told me the intercoolers we have are good only to around 800-850rwhp. The good news is that he told me how to make a larger one that will support, I think, 1,000rwhp. He said that you use the exact same dimensions in terms of lenght and wdth that you have now, but you it one inch thicker. I think our cores are 3 inches thick right now so you would have to make intercoolers that have 4 inch thick cores. The good news is that since they are the same size(length and width) that you can still mount them in the same location with the same brackets. The only thing you might have to do is cut some of the bumper(outer plasticy painted part of the inside if that makes sense) since the core will stick out an extra inch because of the increase in depth.