yeh man, i hear ya, there is no way that you have 0 loss... its gotta be costing you something.

take a picture of it when you get a chance and post it up.

 

you ever check it out? post up a pic or anything...idk.

 

here man i have no idea what kind it is because there is no writing on it???

 

Where does the RED line go?

and what is the WHITE line?

 

Ok guys (not to get off subject dredoggy) but I'm facing a little dilemma here.

I'm already getting the work done to make a Wastegate exhaust piece, to keep exhaust off of my bumper better;

But what I'm debating doing is mocking up and placing my other FACTORY exhaust tip on the side where the STS air filter is so the car appears stock from the back.... at least until you look closely.

OR

dump off of turbo exhaust

BUT...... my better idea was to :
Put both STOCK tips in place, run a dump from the exit of the turbo close to the exhaust tip on that side and still look stock from the rear

 

QUOTE=ZL1Killa;9803810]Where does the RED line go?

and what is the WHITE line?

[/QUOTE]

ill have to look ill let you know. did you see my duals set up?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=#post9788503

 

I think i'm going to do this dredoggy, nice setup there. I do like that, just I don't want all the piping.

 

ok, well I'm back from the grave!!! don't you guys just love me. resurrecting my thread from long long ago. LOL.

Anways, letting watchers and people interested know that I'm doing my cam swap this Saturday

will post up dyno numbers afterwards
The following posts and such will be:
-original dyno graph i have from when I got the car
-after some mods
-turbo kit NO IC @ 5psi

NEW ONES
-turbo kit IC @ 5psi w/ new cam (sorry guys/gals, didn't get a chance to do a dyno with the IC only upgrade)

-turbo kit IC @ 7psi w/new cam (depending on stress to components)

ALSO, Upgrades in right after cam swap will include:
-New Clutch (something stage 2 ... haven't decided yet, may be after stock starts sliding)

-BMR Torque Arm from EPP
-New Driveshaft
-Transmission Upgrade (stage 1 - 700tq)

These are all to support the near 500RWHP and 500RWTQ
Hopefully I will make a substantial gain and be happy with it, regardless its a blast to drive. Still running on the stock heads and motor, just doing this cam swap. I will work with my pipe guy here in charlotte and see if I can get my exhaust stuff done, along with a wastegate piece to keep it off of my bumper and underbody. And yes, still the lovely 10-bolt. I hold it in my prayers

 

cam is in. the ls1howto.com is nice, but they leave out quite a bit and from the OWNERS manual (service manual...all 3 books) you DO NOT PUT RTV on the front engine seal. We bought a new seal and put that sucker on and are happy and confident.


will update as things come more together and will post pictures of what we did.

 

Alright ladies and gents. Cam Swap pics and such. Will update post with details or post new with advanced methods of doing things.... that damn ls1howto guide is nice and outlines a LOT but also leaves out quite a bit. I did use it to go by, so I guess I need to quit my b****** don't I? LOL.

And for those wanting to use the dowel method to insert into the 2 holes, and I'm surprised someone hasn't done/found this already.

GO TO LOWES OR HOME DEPOT. find the area with the weldable rods and such, should be near the fasteners and bolts drawers. Grab you a 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch METAL rods. YES, thats right, METAL, that means no more breaking of these things and losing them in the motor or picking them out. If the 5/16 doesn't go in on one side (which happend to us) we used the 1/4 inch rod, with some electrical tape around it to make it a tad bigger to BE SURE That it would be large enough to hold the lifters up, it is shown below in a picture













ME
















METAL RODS

 

STOCK CAM and wear pattern






NEW and STOCK


ME HAppy and with the new cam gettin ready to go in















BY THE WAY, the STOCK CAM and motor have 34K miles on them. So all wear on the stock cam is from 34K miles. We are going to change the oil out around the 300 mile mark... they say 100 miles or so, seems ridiculous to me... input on that?

Torque arm, BMR TRAK PAK, ordered from EPP, THANKS BOB!!!!

Patrick G, from the tuning that Mike B has done so far and helped me with she is running great!!!... ... god its been a while since I tuned and messed with it, didn't help my damn PIDs and such were gone in EFI LIVE due to re-installation(s).

She will see a dyno soon and a dyno tune, hopefully in the next 2 weeks. MAybe those durn hurricanes can hold off for a while, LOL.

 

looking good on the cam swap!! hows it sound? you made that look easy! about how long was it? you making me wanting cam long time. sorry its been a while on your ? but the red line goes to a T fitting then the white line is hooked from the T fitting to the other end of the wg and also from the T it goes to the outlet on the turbo thats it. im still seeing 9# with 9 clicks. but i will call sts and find out if that is how it works. could i be reading 9# on the boost gauge and really be only 5# it should not be that inacurate should it?

 

It sounds a lot deeper and throaty. It honestly was easy. I actually approached it thinking it was going to be a freaking PITA, and turned out not bad at all.

How long to do the swap... LOL... it was our first time, I was getting feedback and asking questions to Nick, Mike, and Jaymes that I know have already done cam swaps (multiple times) and that ate up some time, but I learned a LOT in the process.

Total time doing the swap was 2 days, 9am till 9pm with breaks. I could do it again in one day, from 8-9pm or finish earlier probably.


Speaking of the swap, to fill in some gaps here:
Again, as I said , you can go to lowes/home depot (I went to lowes) and get METAL rods instead of these wooden rods people are talking about and slap them in to hold the lifters up....

Also, we put the crank into the oven for about 2hours at 250F and then went to 300F for about 30min, pulled it out with some mits ...mmmmm... smell of baking grease & rust & metal , and the durn thing went right on like it was lubed up and ready to go.

Calculating valvetrain stuff, LOL. This was the on the phone for 1-2 hour part. You want a certain pre-load to maintain valvetrain stability/control and such, I will fill in later on this as I have a word document ready, BUT basically you want between 80 thousandTHS and 100 thousandTHS pre-load, will post up word document this afternoon.

NOW, calculating your new throttle body hole, LOL. this is where having a DAD that knows mechanical engineering comes in handy and all the secrets come out. Lets just say we calculated the area of the stock hole, compared some things on the cam, and came up with a new properly sized hole, and it worked first time. Will also post that up.

dredoggy, if you want to do a cam swap, I will be glad to talk you through it. I also recommend going to Patrick G to get a cam recommendation so he can spec you out something that you will love.


Oh and the new cam, at 800RPM, you can tell is a little lope... just ever so slightly and you can see the motor rock a tad. BUT, at 850RPM you wouldn't even know it. Now, taking the motor down to 700RPM and only 12 degrees of timing, yeh, it lopes but not near as bad as I thought, just barely starts to shake the car.

 

nice job!! im doing my head/cam swap this monday. kinda scared actually.

I have a couple questions to ask you....did you swap timing chains? if not was there any need to drop the oil pan? also, how hard was it to line up the cam sprocket and crank sprocket dot to dot? sorry about all the questions, just nervous about the install

 

I did not swap timing chains NOR oil pump, it is recommended on high mileage motors/cars though, so I did not have to drop the oil pan.

Line up the dots, ....actually not too bad. what you can do is have someone hold the chain up after the cam is in of course, and rotate the block (or pre-rotate it so its already got the dot up top before other steps) and then slide the sprocket gear in there and rotate the cam to match it to get it to go on.

it took me 3 times of doing that, moving the motor back and forth, or moving the cam a little more with the sprocket gear. When you are trying to line the dots up make sure there is equal slack on either side of the timing chain, or equal load. Rotate the motor a tad to the left then back to dot-to-dot and check it, then rotate the motor a tad to the right, then back to dot-to-dot and see what you think. Then if you want rotate it all around and check. BIG thing there is to make sure both "sides" of the timing chain have equal pressure, otherwise it will look off no matter what you do

keep the questions coming man. our car show is this weekend. Just give me a call, will PM you my number

 

ok, after this cam swap , I had misfire issues.


had to modify the MISFIRE tables in the computer. So far I have doubled them. I will then make a log today/tomorrow and post up with what I finally did to get rid of the misfires, as I know for a fact that the car is running fine and strong.

 

well hows it looking?

 

i'll bet green money sum1 is on thier back in the garage with oil dripping on thier 4head,
like a chinese water tortured p.o.w...i'll be next (come november)

 

Misfires gone. It was in the thresholds of the misfire tables in the tune. The cars running great. Will have my torque arm installed this weekend
THEN to the dyno the following week

on their back with oil dripping?? no oil dripping here. the main problem with the STS kits is the *** **** T-tap connector to the PCM... use a butt-connector, where all the wires just mate up and you kremp them.

are you doing a STS kit install in november? SWEEET man, hope you like it ; I know I do

 

i'm doing a custom modified sts system...gt67 with meth...
great thread you got going here...it's alomst epic...cant wait to see
it live...it will add more anticipation for my build. glad to hear the cam
is dialed in...keep up the good work!
(the oil leak comment wasnt bashing the sts, it's more of a visual
jab at what it takes (hard work) to get up and running)