350 whp from sts!?! thats all!?!?
09-03-2007, 04:55 PM
#42
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car sputters real bad when its cold.... anyway gettinf my fmic and smaller housing this week ,well see what it does on the dyno, hopefully these lower intake temps help!!!
do you guys think its possilbe my tuner is overlooking something ?? and all that power is hiding in there somewhere???
do you guys think its possilbe my tuner is overlooking something ?? and all that power is hiding in there somewhere???
09-03-2007, 09:16 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by 98turbls1
Well for one 9* of timing is really hurting you... Also you need your AFR somewhere around 11.3-11.5:1 @ WOT... 13-14:1 is WAY too lean... I would go with some injectors, FMIC, and go get it tuned somewhere else if your tuner can't fix it...
09-04-2007, 11:57 PM
#46
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I wouldn't go over 8 psi on the stock motor. If you want to run 10 psi, I think you can do that by just adding some 6.0 heads, they lower the compression some.
09-05-2007, 10:17 PM
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so i go to the track tonight and the best i could pull off was a 13.37 at 111 yea i know the mph doesnt match the time.. i cant get boost in first gear for the life of me, the absolute best 60ft was a 2.15 hahah and that was with a damn near perfect reaction time! def got a major problem, gonna do some trouble shooting and see what i can find. will have smaller housing and intercooler next week. if that doesnt fix my problem def gonna punch tuner in the face and ask for money back lol anyway ill keep yall posted.
09-05-2007, 10:24 PM
#50
Originally Posted by mycar2fast
also whats the best way to find a boost leak???
09-05-2007, 10:33 PM
#51
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What do you have in the car to keep track of things while you are racing (gauges, scanner, scanmaster, etc)?
Also, to check for leaks, you can detach the side at the throttle body, and plug that with something. On the other side, by the turbo, get some pvc pipe and a cap. Drill a hole in the cap, and put in a valve stem, and make sure it's sealed. Then, use a compressor and fill it like a tire (not too much air), and track along the piping listening for leaks. It only costs a few bucks, and it's pretty effective.
Also, to check for leaks, you can detach the side at the throttle body, and plug that with something. On the other side, by the turbo, get some pvc pipe and a cap. Drill a hole in the cap, and put in a valve stem, and make sure it's sealed. Then, use a compressor and fill it like a tire (not too much air), and track along the piping listening for leaks. It only costs a few bucks, and it's pretty effective.
09-05-2007, 10:42 PM
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could a tiny leak be givin me this many problems, like the turbo has to work overtime to make the boost i want therefore really high intake temps, with would make my car seem like its hitting a wall on the dyno 350whp at 4400 rpms???? im just getting really frustrated bein beat in the quarter by stock f bodys! my dumb *** tuner seems to think that those are great numbers for a mustang dyno..... what should my numbers b on a mustang dyno at even 5 psi bone stock??? thanks in advance Blake
09-05-2007, 11:28 PM
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I am the one that installed this turbo kit, I had nothing to do with the tuning, even though I am quite experienced tuning 6cyl gm cars (that happen to use the same PCM hardware even). I doubt that a slightly large housing is causing this car to dyno less horsepower than what it would normally make stock. I doubt there is a significantly sized boost or exhaust leak, and I doubt that there is anything wrong with the turbo itself.
The last time it was on the dyno, it had a mostly flat AFR of 11.8:!, with it rising to a low 12 above 4k rpms. I was also told that during this time, the car was commanding about 16 degrees of timing, but I cant be sure on this.
My current plan to fix this, is to call the tuner, and ask him what the actual timing was during the "fall on face" part in the upper rpms. I was almost convinced there was a boost leak problem on the way home from the track, so I devised a quick plan for finding a leak. Instead of pressurizing the system, I started the motor, and stalled it using my hand over the intake pipe. After doing that I left my hand on and it slowly leaked off the vacume through my hand, with no obvious leaking aside from leaky valves or leaking seal around my hand.
this method does not leave out any of the boost related leaks, but it did eliminate any chance of a very large leak being present. Currently, after the owner attempted to install a new maf sensor, the car can not even hold boost past 4k rpms.
So current symptoms are:
1. good afr, no boost or exhaust leaks. Injectors working WELL within range (17IPW's max)
2. cant spool any boost in first gear, ever
3. boost falls from 7psi to 5, from 4k rpms to 6k respectively.
4. after a VERY short trip around town, I noticed while checking bolts that the compressor housing seemed hotter to the touch than the exhaust housing.
Now, please dont bash me if I did anything obviously wrong while installing this kit, because I usually end up doing the tuning (I have access to a dyno for free, and tuning software for all of my 3800 stuff). i also have very limited turbo experience, so there could be something obviously wrong with the way the turbo is setup I might be overlooking. Some examples include improper turbo assembly, improper oiling, wastegate issues, you name it, Ill check it.
I am 100% convinced that throwing money in the form of coolers and exhaust housings is going to make ANY difference in any way aside from generally improving the performance of the power adder. The car is MUCH slower than stock currently, and I know for a fact that even blowing hot air, it should make significantly more power than this.
The last time it was on the dyno, it had a mostly flat AFR of 11.8:!, with it rising to a low 12 above 4k rpms. I was also told that during this time, the car was commanding about 16 degrees of timing, but I cant be sure on this.
My current plan to fix this, is to call the tuner, and ask him what the actual timing was during the "fall on face" part in the upper rpms. I was almost convinced there was a boost leak problem on the way home from the track, so I devised a quick plan for finding a leak. Instead of pressurizing the system, I started the motor, and stalled it using my hand over the intake pipe. After doing that I left my hand on and it slowly leaked off the vacume through my hand, with no obvious leaking aside from leaky valves or leaking seal around my hand.
this method does not leave out any of the boost related leaks, but it did eliminate any chance of a very large leak being present. Currently, after the owner attempted to install a new maf sensor, the car can not even hold boost past 4k rpms.
So current symptoms are:
1. good afr, no boost or exhaust leaks. Injectors working WELL within range (17IPW's max)
2. cant spool any boost in first gear, ever
3. boost falls from 7psi to 5, from 4k rpms to 6k respectively.
4. after a VERY short trip around town, I noticed while checking bolts that the compressor housing seemed hotter to the touch than the exhaust housing.
Now, please dont bash me if I did anything obviously wrong while installing this kit, because I usually end up doing the tuning (I have access to a dyno for free, and tuning software for all of my 3800 stuff). i also have very limited turbo experience, so there could be something obviously wrong with the way the turbo is setup I might be overlooking. Some examples include improper turbo assembly, improper oiling, wastegate issues, you name it, Ill check it.
I am 100% convinced that throwing money in the form of coolers and exhaust housings is going to make ANY difference in any way aside from generally improving the performance of the power adder. The car is MUCH slower than stock currently, and I know for a fact that even blowing hot air, it should make significantly more power than this.
09-05-2007, 11:34 PM
#56
2 degrees is nothing..
Unfortunantly the .96 housing changed out for a .81 housing will make a HUGE difference......
As far as the waste gate is concerned,
It should look just like this
Unfortunantly the .96 housing changed out for a .81 housing will make a HUGE difference......
As far as the waste gate is concerned,
It should look just like this
09-05-2007, 11:37 PM
#57
Also did you follow the manual STEP BY STEP, if you did, I dont think theres much you can mess up... If you didnt have the oiling system set-up right, you would have burned the turbo up, already...
The housings have alot to do with the turbo spooling sooner..
Unfortunantly, IAT's are a big problem on this kit..
How many degrees of timing was the computer pulling out?
Cause its VERY possible its pulling so much timing, its NOT going to make alot of HP..
I was pulling 11* with 151* IAT's and only made 386 on a Dynojet..
Mustang dynos show less HP anyways..
I told this guy, he needs to get either meth or intercooler, get that .81 housing on, and then go to a dynojet and see what happens
The housings have alot to do with the turbo spooling sooner..
Unfortunantly, IAT's are a big problem on this kit..
How many degrees of timing was the computer pulling out?
Cause its VERY possible its pulling so much timing, its NOT going to make alot of HP..
I was pulling 11* with 151* IAT's and only made 386 on a Dynojet..
Mustang dynos show less HP anyways..
I told this guy, he needs to get either meth or intercooler, get that .81 housing on, and then go to a dynojet and see what happens
09-06-2007, 12:48 AM
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I totally agree that a smaller housing would fit nicely on this car, but I dont see why his boost temperatures would cause a horsepower DECLINE the more RPM's he sees.
I dont see how a smaller housing is going to increase my whp 50-60, in the UPPER rpms. As a layman just looking at this setup VIA a 3rd gear pull on the dyno, I would say the exhaust housing was too small due to the fact the maf sensor locks in and stays at at whatever the tuners said it did from 4k-6k rpms.
I know that an intercooler also would be GREAT, I might build him an air/water due to my good luck with those. But I see that MANY people have no problems running at least more HP than stock without intercoolers, so that really leads me to belive that tossing large amounts of money at this is not going to help much.
How is it most any other guy can run this setup and make power so easily, without fretting about crap like intake temps and exhaust housing size? I honestly could give a crap about the exhaust housing, because I know that a slightly smaller one is not going to make huge gains in spool time in first gear, and even so, even running 8 degrees of timing the entire first gear, the 7PSI in the next 1.5 gears should easily pull out a high 12.
I dont see how a smaller housing is going to increase my whp 50-60, in the UPPER rpms. As a layman just looking at this setup VIA a 3rd gear pull on the dyno, I would say the exhaust housing was too small due to the fact the maf sensor locks in and stays at at whatever the tuners said it did from 4k-6k rpms.
I know that an intercooler also would be GREAT, I might build him an air/water due to my good luck with those. But I see that MANY people have no problems running at least more HP than stock without intercoolers, so that really leads me to belive that tossing large amounts of money at this is not going to help much.
How is it most any other guy can run this setup and make power so easily, without fretting about crap like intake temps and exhaust housing size? I honestly could give a crap about the exhaust housing, because I know that a slightly smaller one is not going to make huge gains in spool time in first gear, and even so, even running 8 degrees of timing the entire first gear, the 7PSI in the next 1.5 gears should easily pull out a high 12.
09-06-2007, 01:19 AM
#60
Originally Posted by darkhorizon
I totally agree that a smaller housing would fit nicely on this car, but I dont see why his boost temperatures would cause a horsepower DECLINE the more RPM's he sees.
I dont see how a smaller housing is going to increase my whp 50-60,in the UPPER rpms. As a layman just looking at this setup VIA a 3rd gear pull on the dyno, I would say the exhaust housing was too small due to the fact the maf sensor locks in and stays at at whatever the tuners said it did from 4k-6k rpms.
I know that an intercooler also would be GREAT, I might build him an air/water due to my good luck with those. But I see that MANY people have no problems running at least more HP than stock without intercoolers, so that really leads me to belive that tossing large amounts of money at this is not going to help much.
How is it most any other guy can run this setup and make power so easily, without fretting about crap like intake temps and exhaust housing size? I honestly could give a crap about the exhaust housing, because I know that a slightly smaller one is not going to make huge gains in spool time in first gear, and even so, even running 8 degrees of timing the entire first gear, the 7PSI in the next 1.5 gears should easily pull out a high 12.
I dont see how a smaller housing is going to increase my whp 50-60,in the UPPER rpms. As a layman just looking at this setup VIA a 3rd gear pull on the dyno, I would say the exhaust housing was too small due to the fact the maf sensor locks in and stays at at whatever the tuners said it did from 4k-6k rpms.
I know that an intercooler also would be GREAT, I might build him an air/water due to my good luck with those. But I see that MANY people have no problems running at least more HP than stock without intercoolers, so that really leads me to belive that tossing large amounts of money at this is not going to help much.
How is it most any other guy can run this setup and make power so easily, without fretting about crap like intake temps and exhaust housing size? I honestly could give a crap about the exhaust housing, because I know that a slightly smaller one is not going to make huge gains in spool time in first gear, and even so, even running 8 degrees of timing the entire first gear, the 7PSI in the next 1.5 gears should easily pull out a high 12.
I will post another picture of the wastegate in a min..
Second of all... AR housing has ALOT to do with making USEFUL power... On a stock cubed motor a 96 is useless.... The .81 willl see dramatic differences.. I have a .81 ar housing on my gt-67 and Im seeing full 6psi by 2800-2900 rpms..
IAT's are a HUGE PROBLEM with turbo kits... Who have you seen make really good numbers with IAT's @ 140+......
8* of timing is REDICULOUS.... I believe it should be more around 15-19* depending on what kinda knock your getting...