My build - Lots of pics
05-30-2010, 11:29 PM
#202
@ 6 psi it made 442 rwhp, and 467 torque on a mustang dyno, and the car was having problems...
I had valve float, Stock 98 springs when i made these numbers, and also had the stock pcv system in, so that was blowing oil into the intake.
With those problems fixed it was probably pretty close to 500 whp on 6 psi.
The new motor is not in the car yet... but i plan on making some more power, and turning up the boost a lil.
Chris
I had valve float, Stock 98 springs when i made these numbers, and also had the stock pcv system in, so that was blowing oil into the intake.
With those problems fixed it was probably pretty close to 500 whp on 6 psi.
The new motor is not in the car yet... but i plan on making some more power, and turning up the boost a lil.
Chris
06-06-2010, 05:25 PM
#206
OK it has been a few weeks now, may as well have an update! We took one weekend off, and had some slow weekends in there, but we got after it full force yesterday and knocked out a lot of work. We will start with 5-14, all we really got accomplished was measuring for push rods, and mocking up the turbo.
I made a new Oil feel line for the turbo, and got started on a new drain for it as well. That was really all we got done that entire weekend
Next up was the weekend of the 28th, where we got some parts in but not a ton of work done again.
Here are the axles back from being shortened 3" each by Moser
\
We plugged the holes for the knock sensors (we won’t be running them anymore) and installed the valley cover. Also (no pics) installed the push rods and buttoned up the motor. You can also see the -12 adapters for running the remote water pump installed on the front of the motor.
Quick shot of the motor all ready to go, rockers, valve covers, intake manifold, fuel rails, etc. are all torqued for the final time.
Just a quick shot of the garage before we burned all the boxes.
I also whipped up a mount for the line lock which you can see on the master cylinder in this pic along with most of the parts needed for the brake lines (from Jerry Bickle race cars)
Modified the stock throttle cable bracket
Here are a few pics of the Aluminum trans cross member that Eric at Midwest Chassis made for us.
We also got the rear end back in the car with the axles in and the brakes mounted, I didn’t bother taking any pics though.
Now we are up to yesterday where we knocked out some major work. We will start with running the new fuel lines. I spent a while making up some lines, then dove under the car and had at it. Here is the start of it all.
Nothing to exciting to say here, so I will just throw up some pics
Left a little loop so that we can get the fuel filter on and off without too much hassle.
This is where we stopped with the fuel lines for now, until we get the motor in
Chris was inside the car working on the wiring when he wasn’t busy under the car helping me run the lines. Once we both finished up we put the dash back in for the first time.
We did not realize how close the dash was going to be to the shifter, but we lucked out and it clears just fine. Another 1/2 of an inch though and we would not be so happy.
Played with how to lay out the gauges
Here is the adapter plate for the manual master
We ended up taking the dash back out so that we could get the shifter all wrapped up. Had to install and wire the neutral safety switch and the reverse light switch. We also had to install and route the shifter cable while we were at it, then reinstall the cover and the grip. After that we put the dash back in for the last time, also trimmed and installed the passenger a-pillar cover. After that we fixed the broken driver side window and re-installed the driver door panel. I didn’t get pictures of any of this, because it was 3am by this time and I wanted to take a shower and pass out. So as you can see progress is being made, but it hasn’t been to interesting to post. We are closing in on finishing the car though, so the next few weekends should be busy. As always thanks for looking!
Sean
I made a new Oil feel line for the turbo, and got started on a new drain for it as well. That was really all we got done that entire weekend
Next up was the weekend of the 28th, where we got some parts in but not a ton of work done again.
Here are the axles back from being shortened 3" each by Moser
\We plugged the holes for the knock sensors (we won’t be running them anymore) and installed the valley cover. Also (no pics) installed the push rods and buttoned up the motor. You can also see the -12 adapters for running the remote water pump installed on the front of the motor.
Quick shot of the motor all ready to go, rockers, valve covers, intake manifold, fuel rails, etc. are all torqued for the final time.
Just a quick shot of the garage before we burned all the boxes.
I also whipped up a mount for the line lock which you can see on the master cylinder in this pic along with most of the parts needed for the brake lines (from Jerry Bickle race cars)
Modified the stock throttle cable bracket
Here are a few pics of the Aluminum trans cross member that Eric at Midwest Chassis made for us.
We also got the rear end back in the car with the axles in and the brakes mounted, I didn’t bother taking any pics though.
Now we are up to yesterday where we knocked out some major work. We will start with running the new fuel lines. I spent a while making up some lines, then dove under the car and had at it. Here is the start of it all.
Nothing to exciting to say here, so I will just throw up some pics
Left a little loop so that we can get the fuel filter on and off without too much hassle.
This is where we stopped with the fuel lines for now, until we get the motor in
Chris was inside the car working on the wiring when he wasn’t busy under the car helping me run the lines. Once we both finished up we put the dash back in for the first time.
We did not realize how close the dash was going to be to the shifter, but we lucked out and it clears just fine. Another 1/2 of an inch though and we would not be so happy.
Played with how to lay out the gauges
Here is the adapter plate for the manual master
We ended up taking the dash back out so that we could get the shifter all wrapped up. Had to install and wire the neutral safety switch and the reverse light switch. We also had to install and route the shifter cable while we were at it, then reinstall the cover and the grip. After that we put the dash back in for the last time, also trimmed and installed the passenger a-pillar cover. After that we fixed the broken driver side window and re-installed the driver door panel. I didn’t get pictures of any of this, because it was 3am by this time and I wanted to take a shower and pass out. So as you can see progress is being made, but it hasn’t been to interesting to post. We are closing in on finishing the car though, so the next few weekends should be busy. As always thanks for looking!
Sean
06-07-2010, 05:12 AM
#209
06-07-2010, 01:16 PM
#211
They are ceramic coated, for the second time. The manifolds and the turbo housing were coated when we did the original build, but they rusted after sitting. The coating place said they had an issue with the black from that time frame (2 years ago) and re did them for free, but we didn't have the turbo redone. It looked OK at first, but it isn't perfect and now we don't want wait for the turnaround.
Sean
Sean
06-20-2010, 12:46 AM
#214
Progress continues slowly but surely. We have been knocking out more small tedious things, just plugging away for the last couple of weeks. Some of the bigger things that have been done include the dash being mounted in for the last time. Also Chris trimmed the dash pad to fit around the cage and we got that installed as well
It doesn't look very exciting, but it is a major part finally done. Chris also made a support for the passenger side of the dash, since it wanted to sag without the heavy factory cross bar. He has also been cleaning up the wiring, and adding what we need for various things. There is still more to be done but we are waiting on some terminals, and other supplies. Once the wiring is done then we need to mount the harness, and install the seats and its is done.
Next comes the rear wheels! Once the decision was made to narrow the rear end it was just a matter of picking the right backspace for the wheels which turned out awesome.
And next to the Mickey Thompson 275/60 drag radials (28x10.5)
The reason the front runners were off was because we needed to pop the tires off and tighten the valve stems (I forgot to do this when I mounted them the first time around). Here you can see Chris in my bosses garage trying to figure out how the hell these go together.
Luckily inside this garage is this...
And this...
So in no time we have the wheels mounted and balanced (one of the rears only needed 1oz!) Here is the end result
Chris had to do some massaging to the driver wheel well (other than cutting out the bump stops which we did a while back) to get the 28's to fit, but it was worth it in the end.
(The hatch is open in this pic)
In this one you can see that the gas tank is back in (another big piece of the puzzle that is done) and the trans cooler (minus fan) mounted. We installed it in the back for a couple of reasons, but mainly packaging. There is a lot in the front of the car, we didn't need to add more.
After changing the rear wheel studs to some longer ones (3") we loaded the car up on the trailer. since it was storming real bad out, we just parked it all in the garage
And still had plenty of room for the cars!
And yes that is a boat in the back too! So for anyone counting, there is a 17' bass boat, a 20' car hauler with the TA on it, a Jetta, and a Corolla, plus the riding mower, huge snow blower, work bench, three tool boxes, etc etc etc. It was a little tight in there to say the least. But it is very nice to have this much space available.
The reason the car is on the trailer is brakes. We were going to attack these ourselves (they really aren't that hard) but we found out that we would need at least one flare tool (37*) and probably a better 45* double wall flare tool. Once you buy the two flare tools, and the couple of fittings and extra line we needed the cost was equal to having a local hot rod shop bend them up for us. So today we drove it down the road 15min and dropped it off, we should get it back by the weekend. Once we get it back we can finally put the motor in! We wanted it out for the brakes so it wouldn't be in the way.
Well that is all for now, thanks for looking!
Sean
It doesn't look very exciting, but it is a major part finally done. Chris also made a support for the passenger side of the dash, since it wanted to sag without the heavy factory cross bar. He has also been cleaning up the wiring, and adding what we need for various things. There is still more to be done but we are waiting on some terminals, and other supplies. Once the wiring is done then we need to mount the harness, and install the seats and its is done.
Next comes the rear wheels! Once the decision was made to narrow the rear end it was just a matter of picking the right backspace for the wheels which turned out awesome.
And next to the Mickey Thompson 275/60 drag radials (28x10.5)
The reason the front runners were off was because we needed to pop the tires off and tighten the valve stems (I forgot to do this when I mounted them the first time around). Here you can see Chris in my bosses garage trying to figure out how the hell these go together.
Luckily inside this garage is this...
And this...
So in no time we have the wheels mounted and balanced (one of the rears only needed 1oz!) Here is the end result
Chris had to do some massaging to the driver wheel well (other than cutting out the bump stops which we did a while back) to get the 28's to fit, but it was worth it in the end.
(The hatch is open in this pic)
In this one you can see that the gas tank is back in (another big piece of the puzzle that is done) and the trans cooler (minus fan) mounted. We installed it in the back for a couple of reasons, but mainly packaging. There is a lot in the front of the car, we didn't need to add more.
After changing the rear wheel studs to some longer ones (3") we loaded the car up on the trailer. since it was storming real bad out, we just parked it all in the garage
And still had plenty of room for the cars!
And yes that is a boat in the back too! So for anyone counting, there is a 17' bass boat, a 20' car hauler with the TA on it, a Jetta, and a Corolla, plus the riding mower, huge snow blower, work bench, three tool boxes, etc etc etc. It was a little tight in there to say the least. But it is very nice to have this much space available.
The reason the car is on the trailer is brakes. We were going to attack these ourselves (they really aren't that hard) but we found out that we would need at least one flare tool (37*) and probably a better 45* double wall flare tool. Once you buy the two flare tools, and the couple of fittings and extra line we needed the cost was equal to having a local hot rod shop bend them up for us. So today we drove it down the road 15min and dropped it off, we should get it back by the weekend. Once we get it back we can finally put the motor in! We wanted it out for the brakes so it wouldn't be in the way.
Well that is all for now, thanks for looking!
Sean
06-27-2010, 02:30 PM
#215
Well just a quick update this week, mostly because I didn't get a lot of pictures. As I said last week, we dropped the car off at Hot Rods by Huber in Stillman Valley to get the brake lines done, and we picked it up Friday afternoon. Apparently our idea of having the lines done was a good one. They had problems flaring the stainless line even with a very expensive Snap-On Hydraulic tool! Here is a couple of shitty pics of the front lines under the hood. I don't know why they all turned out like crap, but you get the idea anyway.
Thats all that is worth posting right now. When we get the car up in the air and get the wheels off I will have a couple more (and they wont suck).
Now that the brake lines are in, we can move on to the real wokr....putting in the motor! If you have never installed a motor in a 4th gen F-body, let me tell you it is a pain in the ***. It took muscle, sweat, a load leveler, some jacks, some cutting, and brain power to get that SOB in. I had my camera in the house over night and it fogged up when I brought it outside, so the pics don't start until part way through the process.
Here you can see where we cut the center of the cowl out to give the motor and the leveler clearance to go backward. Unfortunately that only got us so far, and the chains on the back were touching the windshield. So we put the back of the motor on a jack and un-did the rear chains.
Then we moved the leveler all the way forward so that the back of it would go up over the windshield (and give us some more room with the hoist).
With the motor on the jack we were able to go back far enough to line the mounts up with the saddles, but we couldn't lower the motor (since we had to take the handle off of the jack to get it under the car). So then we had to jack the car up to the motor and muscle it the rest of the way. But after not to long it was in the car and off the hoist!!!
Here you can see the solid mounts from Midwest Chassis, and the jack in the background
Once the motor was in the car we began the planning stages for the rest of the work we need to do. We have a lot to package in the car, and not so much room. Once we laid out how/where we were going to put the battery, the water pump, the catch can, and the regulator we started to plumb the fuel system from the back. Here you can see the lines feeding the back of the rails, we are actually going to change the fittings from the straights to 90's so the line isn't bent so tight. You can also see the fuel pressure regulator mounted and the return line ready to be terminated.
Here you can see where the -8 comes from the filter into the "Y" and splits to two -6's to feed the rails. It is in this location for a couple of reasons but mostly so we can get at it easily.
That is as far as we got while I was still taking pictures. At that point we started to plumb the rails to the regulator and needed to install the alternator to see how it would affect the routing of lines. Well it turns out that caused a couple of problems. The first, and most obvious one, was the clearance on the passenger side rail. Because of its position we will need to change the hose end for that side (if you are keeping track we have needed to change quite a few fittings from what we planned without the car in front of us). The second problem brings up back to the water pump, again. The alternator bracket that we have used a piece that bolted on to a part of the factory water pump (as far as we can tell). As you all know the factory water pump is long gone, and so is the factory replacement electric (because of the alternator ironical enough), so out comes the welder to fix that problem. After staring at it for a while, and trying my hardest to convince Chris to just get rid of the alternator all together and go to a 16v system he finally came up with a solution. Ill have pictures of it later, but basically it is a piece of flat stock that bolts to two existing holes in the head, and then two braces that come up to support the lower part of the bracket. It was easy enough to make, and it solved the problem.
That is all for now, but we should be only a couple of weekends worth of work from getting this thing running again! Thanks for looking!
Sean
Thats all that is worth posting right now. When we get the car up in the air and get the wheels off I will have a couple more (and they wont suck).
Now that the brake lines are in, we can move on to the real wokr....putting in the motor! If you have never installed a motor in a 4th gen F-body, let me tell you it is a pain in the ***. It took muscle, sweat, a load leveler, some jacks, some cutting, and brain power to get that SOB in. I had my camera in the house over night and it fogged up when I brought it outside, so the pics don't start until part way through the process.
Here you can see where we cut the center of the cowl out to give the motor and the leveler clearance to go backward. Unfortunately that only got us so far, and the chains on the back were touching the windshield. So we put the back of the motor on a jack and un-did the rear chains.
Then we moved the leveler all the way forward so that the back of it would go up over the windshield (and give us some more room with the hoist).
With the motor on the jack we were able to go back far enough to line the mounts up with the saddles, but we couldn't lower the motor (since we had to take the handle off of the jack to get it under the car). So then we had to jack the car up to the motor and muscle it the rest of the way. But after not to long it was in the car and off the hoist!!!
Here you can see the solid mounts from Midwest Chassis, and the jack in the background
Once the motor was in the car we began the planning stages for the rest of the work we need to do. We have a lot to package in the car, and not so much room. Once we laid out how/where we were going to put the battery, the water pump, the catch can, and the regulator we started to plumb the fuel system from the back. Here you can see the lines feeding the back of the rails, we are actually going to change the fittings from the straights to 90's so the line isn't bent so tight. You can also see the fuel pressure regulator mounted and the return line ready to be terminated.
Here you can see where the -8 comes from the filter into the "Y" and splits to two -6's to feed the rails. It is in this location for a couple of reasons but mostly so we can get at it easily.
That is as far as we got while I was still taking pictures. At that point we started to plumb the rails to the regulator and needed to install the alternator to see how it would affect the routing of lines. Well it turns out that caused a couple of problems. The first, and most obvious one, was the clearance on the passenger side rail. Because of its position we will need to change the hose end for that side (if you are keeping track we have needed to change quite a few fittings from what we planned without the car in front of us). The second problem brings up back to the water pump, again. The alternator bracket that we have used a piece that bolted on to a part of the factory water pump (as far as we can tell). As you all know the factory water pump is long gone, and so is the factory replacement electric (because of the alternator ironical enough), so out comes the welder to fix that problem. After staring at it for a while, and trying my hardest to convince Chris to just get rid of the alternator all together and go to a 16v system he finally came up with a solution. Ill have pictures of it later, but basically it is a piece of flat stock that bolts to two existing holes in the head, and then two braces that come up to support the lower part of the bracket. It was easy enough to make, and it solved the problem.
That is all for now, but we should be only a couple of weekends worth of work from getting this thing running again! Thanks for looking!
Sean
06-29-2010, 07:33 AM
#218
Those look like Champion wheels, but I'm not in the best state of awareness right now. On using the engine hoist to install the engine, you shouldn't need the leveler. I usually use a chain and adjust the bolt that runs through the chain to get it where you want it. It usually takes a couple attempts, but goes in easy once you've got it right. That way there is no cutting involved. I actually prefer to remove and install the engine from the bottom.
On Eric's K member are the ends where it mounts to the frame kind of U shaped like the BMR turbo k member? I noticed it had an extra support for the motor mounts, but wasn't sure if that would interfere with anything. I really, really, really like that front end setup and want to stick something like that in my 93 with PS though. If it would work out clearance wise I'd sell the BMR and swap the whole front over at some point.
On Eric's K member are the ends where it mounts to the frame kind of U shaped like the BMR turbo k member? I noticed it had an extra support for the motor mounts, but wasn't sure if that would interfere with anything. I really, really, really like that front end setup and want to stick something like that in my 93 with PS though. If it would work out clearance wise I'd sell the BMR and swap the whole front over at some point.
06-29-2010, 06:39 PM
#219
They are champion wheels , we thought about just using a chain. We had a leveler, didn't have chain.(not that we couldn't go get it) but it made it a little easier we think using the leveler to swing it in, and get close.
As far as the cowl goes, sometime in the near future i will get a new hood, and the whole cowl will get cut out, So i was all for it. Plus the plastic can go back over it for now, and it makes getting at a couple bolts back there much easier
We did think about doing it from the bottom, but we just did not want to have the front end apart again.
The k is U'd a little bit, and there is a ton of clearance, I would talk to him, but with some fancy manifolds i would say 4"dp easy, and maybe a 5. Lucky for us, we will go out bumper or fender, so dont need to worry about clearance.
I know he has told some other people he will do PS setups, give him a call, great guy if you havn't delt with him yet.
Chris
, we thought about just using a chain. We had a leveler, didn't have chain.(not that we couldn't go get it) but it made it a little easier we think using the leveler to swing it in, and get close.As far as the cowl goes, sometime in the near future i will get a new hood, and the whole cowl will get cut out, So i was all for it. Plus the plastic can go back over it for now, and it makes getting at a couple bolts back there much easier
We did think about doing it from the bottom, but we just did not want to have the front end apart again.
The k is U'd a little bit, and there is a ton of clearance, I would talk to him, but with some fancy manifolds i would say 4"dp easy, and maybe a 5. Lucky for us, we will go out bumper or fender, so dont need to worry about clearance.
I know he has told some other people he will do PS setups, give him a call, great guy if you havn't delt with him yet.
Chris
Those look like Champion wheels, but I'm not in the best state of awareness right now. On using the engine hoist to install the engine, you shouldn't need the leveler. I usually use a chain and adjust the bolt that runs through the chain to get it where you want it. It usually takes a couple attempts, but goes in easy once you've got it right. That way there is no cutting involved. I actually prefer to remove and install the engine from the bottom.
On Eric's K member are the ends where it mounts to the frame kind of U shaped like the BMR turbo k member? I noticed it had an extra support for the motor mounts, but wasn't sure if that would interfere with anything. I really, really, really like that front end setup and want to stick something like that in my 93 with PS though. If it would work out clearance wise I'd sell the BMR and swap the whole front over at some point.
On Eric's K member are the ends where it mounts to the frame kind of U shaped like the BMR turbo k member? I noticed it had an extra support for the motor mounts, but wasn't sure if that would interfere with anything. I really, really, really like that front end setup and want to stick something like that in my 93 with PS though. If it would work out clearance wise I'd sell the BMR and swap the whole front over at some point.
06-29-2010, 07:53 PM
#220
^ You basically have the whole setup that I want to stick into my 93 although with four changes. The rear (narrowed 4 / side), same wheels (different size and BS), coilovers instead, and the same front end only with PS, but everything else the same. I just don't have the money to be messing with it right now.
I also just not an hour ago picked up a moser 9 inch housing narrowed 5.5 / side, solid ARB, narrowed mounts, and wheelie bar mounts from the freight depo. I got it for $450ish shipped so it was hard to pass on. That too will be sitting for a long time though.
On the k member I need to fit a single 5'' pipe with the AC system in there. I know I can do it with the BMR k member I have. Down the road once I get everything running, have extra money to mess with it though I'll want to swap things out, and I know it would work with my second round of revisions.
I also just not an hour ago picked up a moser 9 inch housing narrowed 5.5 / side, solid ARB, narrowed mounts, and wheelie bar mounts from the freight depo. I got it for $450ish shipped so it was hard to pass on. That too will be sitting for a long time though.
On the k member I need to fit a single 5'' pipe with the AC system in there. I know I can do it with the BMR k member I have. Down the road once I get everything running, have extra money to mess with it though I'll want to swap things out, and I know it would work with my second round of revisions.