LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
06-24-2008, 09:55 AM
#221
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you dont run a spring tensioner on cogs, you only want a specific amount of slack in the belt any more and you will start breaking stuff ( bearings, shafts, mounting bolts) shredding comes from improper alignment not slack.
06-24-2008, 10:31 AM
#222
Cog belts don't need alot of tension at all. They don't slip from lack of tension.
You just need enough to stop the belt from floppiing around on accel/decel, which isn't much at all. Putting a sping tensioner on there may not be a good idea. I'd call Procharger and talk to them about that they probably can give you the 411 as to the best route.
You just need enough to stop the belt from floppiing around on accel/decel, which isn't much at all. Putting a sping tensioner on there may not be a good idea. I'd call Procharger and talk to them about that they probably can give you the 411 as to the best route.
06-24-2008, 11:00 AM
#224
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Cog belts don't need alot of tension at all. They don't slip from lack of tension.
You just need enough to stop the belt from floppiing around on accel/decel, which isn't much at all. Putting a sping tensioner on there may not be a good idea. I'd call Procharger and talk to them about that they probably can give you the 411 as to the best route.
You just need enough to stop the belt from floppiing around on accel/decel, which isn't much at all. Putting a sping tensioner on there may not be a good idea. I'd call Procharger and talk to them about that they probably can give you the 411 as to the best route.
Thanks.
06-28-2008, 06:18 PM
#226
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I'm trying to finish up a few misc. things while I wait for the tranny:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...70#post9643570
Any of you guys can help it would be much appreciated.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...70#post9643570
Any of you guys can help it would be much appreciated.
07-01-2008, 09:23 PM
#227
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Havn't been doing much fun stuff lately but I'm trying to finish up some misc things that need to get done while I wait for the tranny. Today I installed my kirkey seat and yesterday a shift light/tach. I made my own bracketing for the kirkey. It worked out pretty well I think, it's adjustable to move where ever I want it, like 2 inches from side to side and 6 inches front to back. Please ignore the green strut, lol, it will all get painted black before the carpet goes in.
07-01-2008, 09:32 PM
#228
Rip that ruber mat off the firewall, that thing weigh's about 30 lbs!
I mounted my kirkey right on the floor, with the rear 2 studs that the stock seat is held on with. If you're taller, it makes for alot more headroom.
That mounting setup looks solid though, I've seem some people's brackets they made and it's kinda scary, those look pretty beefy.
I mounted my kirkey right on the floor, with the rear 2 studs that the stock seat is held on with. If you're taller, it makes for alot more headroom.
That mounting setup looks solid though, I've seem some people's brackets they made and it's kinda scary, those look pretty beefy.
07-01-2008, 09:46 PM
#229
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Rip that ruber mat off the firewall, that thing weigh's about 30 lbs!
I mounted my kirkey right on the floor, with the rear 2 studs that the stock seat is held on with. If you're taller, it makes for alot more headroom.
That mounting setup looks solid though, I've seem some people's brackets they made and it's kinda scary, those look pretty beefy.
I mounted my kirkey right on the floor, with the rear 2 studs that the stock seat is held on with. If you're taller, it makes for alot more headroom.
That mounting setup looks solid though, I've seem some people's brackets they made and it's kinda scary, those look pretty beefy.
I mounted it on the floor the first time to try and save weight but it sat too low for me. You must be pretty tall cause I'm 6' and I felt like a child trying to see over the steering wheel, lol. Those braces are strong, they are from my work, an electrical shop, made for supporting 1000lb + transformers and stuff like that. Strength means weight though.
07-02-2008, 04:59 AM
#231
I'm 6'3, and when you put a 10 pt in the car you may want the added space from the bars on the roof.
Pull the whole dash (sucks I know) but that pad, gos right up to the windshield. If you can get the whole thing out it's a solid 30 lbs. I don't know if you have all the hvac, radio and assorted wiring snipped out or not, but if you don't that's another 30 lbs.
My car, with my 280 lbs in it, is 3330 with a dual 3.5 inch exhuast, full 10 pt, still has the stock k member and a arms, 12 bolt, frame connectors, full nitrous bottle, stock hood/hatch/glass, still has the door bars in. I have probably another 200 lbs I can get out if I had the $ for the LW fronts suspension parts and a pin on hood, and a painless wiring harness.
with the blower and lsx block you aren't gonna get that car under 3400 that I'm pretty sure of though, that stuff right there plus all the intercooler and whatnot are at least 300lbs of stuff I'm not carying around
Pull the whole dash (sucks I know) but that pad, gos right up to the windshield. If you can get the whole thing out it's a solid 30 lbs. I don't know if you have all the hvac, radio and assorted wiring snipped out or not, but if you don't that's another 30 lbs.
My car, with my 280 lbs in it, is 3330 with a dual 3.5 inch exhuast, full 10 pt, still has the stock k member and a arms, 12 bolt, frame connectors, full nitrous bottle, stock hood/hatch/glass, still has the door bars in. I have probably another 200 lbs I can get out if I had the $ for the LW fronts suspension parts and a pin on hood, and a painless wiring harness.
with the blower and lsx block you aren't gonna get that car under 3400 that I'm pretty sure of though, that stuff right there plus all the intercooler and whatnot are at least 300lbs of stuff I'm not carying around
07-02-2008, 07:09 AM
#232
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The best part about doing it this way is you have the freedom to move it around to get it right where you want it and you can always loosen the 4 bolts holding the seat down and slide the spring nuts around for adjustments in about ten minutes.
07-02-2008, 07:14 AM
#233
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I'm 6'3, and when you put a 10 pt in the car you may want the added space from the bars on the roof.
Pull the whole dash (sucks I know) but that pad, gos right up to the windshield. If you can get the whole thing out it's a solid 30 lbs. I don't know if you have all the hvac, radio and assorted wiring snipped out or not, but if you don't that's another 30 lbs.
My car, with my 280 lbs in it, is 3330 with a dual 3.5 inch exhuast, full 10 pt, still has the stock k member and a arms, 12 bolt, frame connectors, full nitrous bottle, stock hood/hatch/glass, still has the door bars in. I have probably another 200 lbs I can get out if I had the $ for the LW fronts suspension parts and a pin on hood, and a painless wiring harness.
with the blower and lsx block you aren't gonna get that car under 3400 that I'm pretty sure of though, that stuff right there plus all the intercooler and whatnot are at least 300lbs of stuff I'm not carying around
Pull the whole dash (sucks I know) but that pad, gos right up to the windshield. If you can get the whole thing out it's a solid 30 lbs. I don't know if you have all the hvac, radio and assorted wiring snipped out or not, but if you don't that's another 30 lbs.
My car, with my 280 lbs in it, is 3330 with a dual 3.5 inch exhuast, full 10 pt, still has the stock k member and a arms, 12 bolt, frame connectors, full nitrous bottle, stock hood/hatch/glass, still has the door bars in. I have probably another 200 lbs I can get out if I had the $ for the LW fronts suspension parts and a pin on hood, and a painless wiring harness.
with the blower and lsx block you aren't gonna get that car under 3400 that I'm pretty sure of though, that stuff right there plus all the intercooler and whatnot are at least 300lbs of stuff I'm not carying around
I've done that once to get the hvac out and I didn't like it lol. I promissed my self I'd never do it again, it was a big pain in the ***. The worst part is because I have all kinds of wires going everywhere under there for all my gauges and stuff. I might just try to cut out what I can from underneath, I really don't want to take out the dash and have to rewire everything again.
07-02-2008, 08:17 AM
#234
Take it out. You'll never get the whole rubber mat out without pulling the dash, and you have 20 lbs of wire to get out.
Plus you can then wire everything neatly so it's easy to work on, and with the power you're gonna make the dash will need to come out to get cage done anyway.
One thing I can tell you, when you have the cage done make sure that you leave the top dash piece in the car when you have it built, that way you won't have to have the windshield pulled like I did to get the top of the dash back in
Plus you can then wire everything neatly so it's easy to work on, and with the power you're gonna make the dash will need to come out to get cage done anyway.
One thing I can tell you, when you have the cage done make sure that you leave the top dash piece in the car when you have it built, that way you won't have to have the windshield pulled like I did to get the top of the dash back in
07-02-2008, 08:32 AM
#235
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Take it out. You'll never get the whole rubber mat out without pulling the dash, and you have 20 lbs of wire to get out.
Plus you can then wire everything neatly so it's easy to work on, and with the power you're gonna make the dash will need to come out to get cage done anyway.
One thing I can tell you, when you have the cage done make sure that you leave the top dash piece in the car when you have it built, that way you won't have to have the windshield pulled like I did to get the top of the dash back in
Plus you can then wire everything neatly so it's easy to work on, and with the power you're gonna make the dash will need to come out to get cage done anyway.
One thing I can tell you, when you have the cage done make sure that you leave the top dash piece in the car when you have it built, that way you won't have to have the windshield pulled like I did to get the top of the dash back in
07-02-2008, 09:09 AM
#236
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Not that you need another project to sink money into because I know how these things go, but have you thought about a remote mounted water pump? It would take one more pulley out of the mix, plus free up some room for your cog pulley.
This isnt the best picture, but the only one I could find.
Where the existing water pump bolts to the engine now, you just build a flange with a nipple or AN fitting or what have you to run the water lines to. Clears up some space. You may have seen something like that at the race track before.
Either way, looking awesome man! Keep up the good work
This isnt the best picture, but the only one I could find.
Where the existing water pump bolts to the engine now, you just build a flange with a nipple or AN fitting or what have you to run the water lines to. Clears up some space. You may have seen something like that at the race track before.
Either way, looking awesome man! Keep up the good work
07-02-2008, 09:29 AM
#237
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Not that you need another project to sink money into because I know how these things go, but have you thought about a remote mounted water pump? It would take one more pulley out of the mix, plus free up some room for your cog pulley.
This isnt the best picture, but the only one I could find.
Where the existing water pump bolts to the engine now, you just build a flange with a nipple or AN fitting or what have you to run the water lines to. Clears up some space. You may have seen something like that at the race track before.
Either way, looking awesome man! Keep up the good work
This isnt the best picture, but the only one I could find.
Where the existing water pump bolts to the engine now, you just build a flange with a nipple or AN fitting or what have you to run the water lines to. Clears up some space. You may have seen something like that at the race track before.
Either way, looking awesome man! Keep up the good work
07-02-2008, 10:55 AM
#238
That's the sort of thing I was telling you about, you can also buy a meziere radiator that has a pump bolted right to it, have the thing made to fit the space you have, just go thicker and it will work way better anyway. This moves the waterpump off the front of the motor so the only thing you have left is the ALT which will make things easier.
