WS6taguy, buddy were in the same boat here, but dont tell me that I'm taking it over board. You just now started posting up about the APS kit. While others like myself have been doing it for about a year now and we get the same **** from PETER. The run around. I've also posted up about this sway bar issue about 2 months ago, with little help from PETER or the board members.(Do a search)

And when your turbo goes out after only TUNING time, I think its complete Bullshit. APS doesn't give a rats *** what time or money has been lost in efforts to replace a turbo. Car has been down for about 8 months now. They simply sent me a warranty turbo(thanks). And YES I know its part of the game, but come on....
I know alot of people on here spent alot of money and some are broke now. And some can't afford for something to go wrong, as many this is there DD car. I know I would of been pissed if it was my DD car.

So PETER this is a question to you.
How much and when do your upgrades for the old kit come out and how much? Price on turbos and upgraded inlets?

 

This is so 2 months ago... I'm surprised there's just now such an uproar regarding this issue. APS didn't care then, what the **** makes you think they're going to care now?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9609419

 

Gzzz, mine was why back in Dec of 07.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=:mad::punch:

 

I am still on the outside looking in. Most of you guys got your kits installed I am still waiting. Most from delays on the new engine this season.
At least the waiting helps me see potential problems and maybe fixes for them.

It does seem that Peter does dodge direct questions and issues. While its a pain in the butt due to time changes its maybe time to phone aps directly and talk to someone over his head or become a squeaking wheel.

No kit is perfect it seems. ATI had lots of issued thru the years mabye still has some. STS has issues,Paxton has lots of issues, Powerdyne,Turbonetics, etc. etc.

I am am modder and guess expect a certain amount of having to tweak or fix things myself.

There are varioius issues here .Some have had bad turbos. Would be curious to see just how many people have had turbos go south on them. Sometimes people think the turbos have failed they blow oil like crazy out the exhaust or into the intake pipes but the problem is something else like excesssive crankcase pressure. Had that happen twice in my 97 talon Thought my new garrett was toast car put out tons of oil in pipes and out the back just a blocked hose causing crankcase pressure to build up and another time it was a blocked vent.

Now we have the minor but annoying issues. Overheating in some cars. Welll think it does mention something in APS instructions about overheating might require some cooling system mods. So we have fixes for that maybe better water pump or Ron Davis rad or lt1 rad?
Then the collapsing intake tube problem. APS should be shipping revised intake tubes for free for good public relations. Or they should have simple inserts that would go into the tubes again ship them for free. I am pretty sure can figure out something on my car but really I shouldn't have to.

This hitting of the tubes from the sway bar is another annoyance. Yes they should at least sell the spacers or give them with the kits for free.Sell them if the system works on stock non lowered cars but from what you guys are saying it don't. Spacers are cheap.or they can also preclearance the pipes ,include spacers or simply like said maybe cut the pipes near the sway bars and put in high pressure silicone couplers. They can easily take 30psi .I run my 97 talon up to high 20s no problem with good silicone couplers and t bolt clamps. The cheap worm gear clamps is another thing that aps shouldn't be using. include t bolts or sell t bolts as optional. T bolt hold much better.I will be replacing my aps clamps with t bolt clamps.

Taking off the sway bar is one quick solution till better is found. It should not be the permanent one.I have nice fat hotchkis sway bars and intend to use them sooner or later. I guess at worst would go to stock bar. My car is dropped about 3/4 to 1 inch. Would possibly go back to stock height if had to and stock sways. My car handles on rails now with my big hotchkis sways and the mild drop. And handling is nice when you are shooting for big power. Lower center of gravity keeps you on the road and big sways also.

Its maybe time to email APS directly or phone. The kit was supposed to do high boost.
So they should ship out new intake tubes or inserts to fix the collapsing problem and they should be free!!!

They should post on the instructions mods for the stainless tubes or send spacers or siilicone couplers with instructions to cut the tubes and install silicone couplers. Or they should redesign the tubes but think the two previous suggestions should work fine.

The overheating in some cars they could maybe offer another radiator for sale that will fix the problem. Just like they offer their own fuel system which was still thinking to get but am not that pleased to see APS /Peter not being on top of this.

I plan on a vette sooner or later and might want to put APS kit on that. I have lots of other buddies that are waiting to see how my APS kit works out. You can lose a lot of sales with poor after sales follow up service.

So in case Peter is again watching this thread and I am sure he is lets make it super simple?

1. Peter Are the non collapsing intake tubes ready?
Are you sending them out free? If not then how much? We want these things now already! Its been way long an many have this problem. And most of us want to go to near max boost of the system.
Wonder if collapsing tubes might be making some guys think turbo is blown when they suck shut possibly making them push oil out??

2. Are you going to figure out this clearance problem and supply some spacers or silicone ,most guys don't want to have to dent up their pretty stainless pipes. And as said a bit of dent might not be enough. Gm did a similar thing with the exhaust making the pipe oval. Oval pipe would not be that bad or factory clearanced pipe but again don't think a short section of silicone connector would be the end of the world.

3. As for guys with bad turbos not sure how many have actually had bad ones.
We almost need a poll to find out. If its just a couple then you might want to consider sending replacements for PR. thats public relations. I think you already have sent a few for PR. If its lots of them are or go bad quickly then has to be assembly with your housing or something.The mits 20g are normally very very reliable.

Now Peter step up the plate or go to your superiors and take care of 1 and 2 for sure!
And you guys can do your part and start phoning APS direct if Peter keeps skirting the issue. And Peter you have usually gotten back to me quickly and professionally but really you are playing dodgeball here.Time to man up and take care of the first two issues!!!.

 

By the way, here are pics of my car. Obviously stock height.





And here's a pic of the dent:



My fiance is pretty good with fabrication & such, so he's trying to find a solution for me. He is talking about a spacer type plate for the swaybar mount, and shaving 7/8" off of the swaybar endlinks as well. Hopefully that will give me more room, as I was really hoping to lower the car after the fall race season. I will let you all know...

 

i also am on the out side looking in. (waiting on motor) But i think peter(APS) should remake these pipes with the bend(crash part) already in it and send it over. also the inlet pipes.

I was part of the first 50. the Kit was slod as a Twin tubro kit, capeable of making 18psi. most of you guys can't get over 14psi.

Peter -My question.

Did you false advertise your kit? Or are you going to make it right?
I paid you 5K+ for this Kit. the kit is incomplete. Please Either Make it rightand send all of us the inlet tubes free. Or give me the address to send the bill to for the ones i have to have made State side.

Thanks
Big Bird

 

Personally i think both of the pipes need to be redesigned i'm sure it can be done

 

I know its not an APS fix, which it should be....but here goes my fix.

Get some .75 SS tubing or big enough to clear the sway bar, cut out where the dent is (on the IC tube) and cut the .75 tubing in half and weld that section into the IC tube.

A pic to reference:



The notch in that tubing is a bit big, but you get my point, a small section of SS from either .50 or .75 will provide enough room to clear the bar and not impede flow much at all....if there is a hit in performance i'd be amazed.

Either that or cut a 3 to 4 inch length out of the IC tubing, bead both ends with a welder or have someone roll the beads for you and then add in a 4 ply or thicker silicone hose so that'll smush on the sway bar and not your not to flexible SS tubing.

Thats just two quick ideas from me taking a quick look at it.....and forgive me for not knowing the diameter of the front sway bar.....I haven't run one for about 8 years

J

 

I also think inlet tubes should be distributed to anyone who requests them on an exchange basis.

Has anyone not been able to make over 14 psi on 347? The only people I've seen pushing the kit hard have been on 400" + motors. A kit designed to make 18 psi on a 347 is not going to make that on a 408, and no one should expect it to.

 

I believe there's a much simpler solution to gain greater clearance between the sway bar and the steel turbo discharge tube. I hope to be able to post up some info on this issue within the next 24 hours.

Cheers,

Peter

 

I simply don't have time to sit on the computer all day............I have loads of work in the factory and I spend my own spare time to post on the forum when I have time. I do try to answer all pms and emails within a few days though at times I can get swamped with emails and it may take up to 5 working days before I get to answer all emails/pms.


That will always be the case because there are so many variables that owners can add to their car.

No doubt some cars will require additional cooling mods depending upon local enviromental conditions and owner useage and power output of the engine.

I'm looking into a simple mod to gain extra clearance between the steel discharge tube and the stock sway bar. I should have some info for you guys within the next 24 hours or so.

Customers can purchase their own T bolts if they have the need or desire, there's plenty of sources for T bolts in the US aftermarket.

The turbo system was always designed around the stock sway bar diamemter, if you fit a larger sway bar then you will have to make your own mods to suit the sway bar.

No the parts are not free and it is certainly possible to produce stronger silicone connection hoses for the guys who need them.

I hope to have some info on this issue within the next 24 to 48 hours. I will post up when I have some firm info.

We don't replace parts on purely on a PR basis. Any part that is replaced is replaced if APS considers there's a manufacturing defect.

Peter

 

If on a 100% stock car, with a 100% stock sway bar that hits on the intake tube, if that is not a manufacturing defect, then I dont know what is.

on my car. to make it hit, all I had to do was back out of the garage,

also, if the intake tubes collapse at just 10 pounds of boost, and the kit is supposed to make 1000 flywheel horsepower, is this not a manufacturing defect as well?

I guess not, however it is a case of your kit not being able to put out what you posted up in the adds trying to sell it.

now the story is. yes the intakes may not support what we told you it would unless you spend more money on it.

 

Peter,

How much are the updated ducts? Whats the max boost they can handle?

Looking forward to the sway bar fix

 

I thought updated ducts were already made and if so then at least price them.I would pay a reasonable amount to fix any potential problem with the intake ducts. Reasonable would maybe be 100 to 200 bucks max.

I think the sway bar thing will be a fairly simple fix.

A bit worried about bad turbos now too but see how it goes. I couldn't do my install within three month or whatever the warranty period was. So crossing my fingers my turbos are good ones. I have mits turbos and they have lasted over 100,000 miles on my talons. They are usually very reliable.

Peter nice to see you on here going thru my post in point form with some detail.
I also have to agree though with the poster that if your pipes hit the stock sway bar on a non lowered car that is your manufacturing defect or error. If aftermarket sway or lowered car needs tweaking that is not your fault.

Collapsing intake tubes would pretty much be a defect as most guys expect to be able to push these turbos to 18 or 20psi. You did on your test mule. So you are not actually working on the revised intake tubes ? I thought JM said they were finished and he had a set or something.

I wish my kit was on my car already and could try to help out with a fix or two.It might be on this year and it might now be next spring. If had stuck with stock engine it would already be on. But don't want to put these on a stock engine.

 

I agree.

 

Normally would be $265 a pair though I will charge only a $190 a pair (plus freight of $100 for UPS door to door air freight) for the heavy duty upgraded hoses. This price applies only to the original 50 buyers of the F body twin turbo system. The hoses should handle running around to 20 PSI quite safely.

As am I. I will post up info as soon as I have firm data on the rectification.

Cheers,

Peter

 

Normally would be $265 a pair though I will charge only a $190 a pair (plus freight of $100 for UPS door to door air freight) for the heavy duty upgraded turbo inlet hoses. This price applies only to the original 50 buyers of the F body twin turbo system. The hoses should handle running around to 20 PSI quite safely.

Agreed.

I would not worry to much as these F body twin turbos turbos have proven to be very reliable and inexpensive to overhaul when the time arrives.

Peter

 

Ooooooh! $190 + $100 shipping for two, lousy, "upgraded" silicone tubes. Let me jump right on that! You can offer this "deal" to one of the non-original 50 buyers, because I won't be ripped off like that. Thanks for all you've done, Peter!

 

Well 190 is not the end of the world but shipping is a bit brutal. Maybe you could include them in the box if bought the fuel system at same time.

I would like to have someone get these ducts and test them to 20psi then for sure would get them.

I am not crazy about paying for these as the original ducts should be able to do 20psi but would bit the bullet if they do the job.

They are not simple silicone tubes remember guys they are custom molded pieces. They should be included in any of the current aps kits but then we did get the introductry price, free shipping too.

As said not too worried about mits 20gs. One of most reliable turbos out there and as Peter said unlike some BB turbos easily rebuildable.


So PETER are you saying the new tubes are available now to order ?
They actually exist? and if so would assume you have tested them out?

 

peter can you post pics of these new ducks?

thanks