today , after like a year, i finally got my fuel pump setup FINISHED.

parts used:

THIS fuel pump kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-17241

THIS ati damper
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATI-917243

THIS regulator
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13113

THIS fuel filter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-12307

about 300 bucks in push lock -10 an fittings, for the rails and other stuff..

i used a TRUCK a/c bracket, its held to the block via 4 M10x1.5 x ~ 30-35mm bolts

from there, i used 2 m10x1.5x100mm bolts, and this is the crappy part, you have to kinda grind out the inside of the black brackets insides so these bolts fit. I used a 3/8th drill bit in a drill, and rode it around putting sidewards pressure inside the two holes used, and eventually got the entire large opening milled out somewhat enough that it gently slides on its rotational axis.

i then took some pipe i had, its like 1/2" round steel, cut it down to pretty precisely 2 1/8 inch. the REASON i made it OVER 2" , and you can actually go up to 3" i bet, is because this puts the black bracket, with the pump bottom out in it lined up properly, the longer these stand offs , then more you have to move the fuel pump back in the black bracket, which is OK because as stated, you have about an inch of adjustment room. i was shooting for being too far forward of the crank pulley vs too far back, because it ONLY goes back (the pump in the bracket that is).

anyways, all said and done, and what i didnt see mentioned earlier is that you will need a longer belt. and you need to do this right in order to have tension, make sure the pump is in the up postion (as pictured), and put the belt on, make sure its tight, then rotate the pump down, unfortunately this mounting does give you MUCH length for tension, so it has to be damn near spot on when its in the loose position..

 

reject here are the pics i promised you...



















this is the belt you need if youre going to be running this pump off the ac bracket. if you cant find it locally there is a company in charleston, sc called motion industries that can order it for you. i think i paid like 15 and some change for it.

 

thanks again! now i just need to find a machine shop willing to make this for me!

 

nice ammo can btw

 

i think the guy that did mine only charged me like 40$ to do it, if you want i can get you his number but you would have to send him your vette balancer and pump mandrel and balancer bolt for him to do it

 

yeah if you dont mind! he already has the plans so it would be less room for error

 

ill get it to ya tomorrow, dont want to bother him on sunday.

 

it's fine, thank you!

 

thats AWESOME info on the belt. thanks.

 

Awesome info in this thread with detailed photos and parts list!!

 

Hey guys,
i could not be much help on the mounting of your pumps because mine is on a regular sbc but i can help you with the "street drivability",i have been running a belt pump on my vega for a few years now and i have had zero issues with it,it has never thrown the belt at the track or on the street it has caused ZERO issues since installed....the only issue i have had was the barry grant shutoff valve that NHRA requires did not have its cable hooked up yet and on launch the shutoff closed and the car only went about 200' before shutting off but it did not hurt anything.
I switched to the belt pump because the car is a nitrous combination and it runs on methanol so i was going to have to add another pump to supply gas when the nitrous comes on,so i took the A-2000 pump that was running the car and put it in front to supply gas to the nitrous kits and the belt pump keeps up with the methanol....saved me another 20+ amps of load on the charging system from a second big electric pump!

 

POOR MAN'S BELT DRIVE.

here is another option to fakesnake's excellent setup.

goodvibes mandrel
http://www.goodvibesracing.com/Belt_Pump_Drives.htm
pn e5019.c

$40

AND
e5018a or 5018 depending on underdrive ratio desired and tooth count of belt pulley

$40

total $80

you can see the locating lip on the underside of the mandrel. this needs to be true to the spacer.






hunk of aluminum. it needs to be slightly bigger than the id of the balancer in order to machine it to size.

about $40-50 shipped depending on size. i would measure so as not to have waste.

http://www.discountsteel.com/items/6..._Round_Bar.cfm

here is the round bar machined. the outside diameter locates to the balancer, and the inside diameter locates the mandrel,so everything is perfectly true



the backside of the machined spacer



corvette balancer , about $50, and have the face and inside diameter machined true



finished assembly



TOTAL COST ABOUT $300 compared to about $650-700 going with the ati balancer, aeromotive mandrel, and machine work to fit them.

 

I would not trust a stock balancer on something that is making some power or sees rpm.

You start cutting on one and you are just asking for problems.

Tim

 

i appreciate that, and it is a valid concern but it has seen over 7800rpms with no issues thus far. fingers crossed

 

Good thread

Anyone have pics of what a cable drive looks like, or the size?

 

BAD ***! Sweet write up guys

 

I have been thinking of going with a setup like this, BUT I do not if it's a waste with the motor i'm building in my sig. for the T/A...

 

Awesome, This is just what I was looking for. We are currently running a sbc with a ron's toilet and wanted to run it on the new LS we are building.

 

I have an Aeromotive Red belt driven pump with bracket and drive pulley. $375.
Has 11 passes on it.

 

I am going to be running an F1-X cog setup. What is my options? I bought this http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...ive-fuel-pump/ I really need some help on figuring this out. Being that I will have a cog pulley bolted on the ATI 918853 Harmonic Balancer.