00 WS6 CONV

Newbie to the board here and really need some help!!

I'm mainly into old muscle cars, but just had to have a WS6 and now I have no idea how to work on it!!!

Have had my WS6 for 2 years now and am needing some help. It's all stock with 9,100 miles on it. It's got a starting problem. It turns over fine but not getting any gas to start. I can "prime" it by turning the key to the ON position to get fuel up to the engine (I hear the pump come on and go off). I "prime" 3-5 times when it's cold and then it usually starts. It WILL warm start. It seems like it's not holding fuel at the rails to start. Being new car dumb, is there some part that holds fuel at the engine? Once it's started, it runs great. It's out of warranty and not taking it to the shop to let someone else screw it up. Anyone got any ideas for me? All help is GREATLY appreciated!!!

pimpmaro

One way to check for sure would be to use a fuel pressure gauge at the rails. Just attach a temporary one to the shrader valve on the driver's side fuel rail and see what it does.

00 WS6 CONV

Any idea what the pressure should run? I only see one test valve on the drivers side and the sticker around it says it should run I think 1-2 pounds, which sounds low. Car is at home and only have computer access at work, so not for sure. Like I said, I am NEW car dumb and wasn't expecting to work on this thing for another few years since I hardly drive it, so reason for stupid questions.
Thanks!

1BDWS6

iTrader: (8)

Did you ever find out what is causing your problem? I have a 00 WS6 that's doing the same exact thing except mine doesn't have any ryme or reason why it does it IE: cold, hot, doesn't matter. I might hit the key 20 times and the car start right up and on the 21st time it wont start. I can turn key on and off 5-10 times and it might start and it might not. It's about to drive me nuts because it doesn't do it all the time so it's hard to track down.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

not the vapor pressure valve.


look at the end of the driver side fuel rail. there will be a plastic cap, twist that off. then you will see the scrader valve. hook up the fuel gauge there. it should read about 58psi.

00 WS6 CONV

Haven't figured it out yet. Just not driving it. Friend's coming over with pressure gauge this weekend and we're going to look at it. Mine started it one day when I accidently let the key slip and it didn't start. After that it started having problem almost immediately getting gas. Always turns over though and doesn't appear to be the security gas shut off (if it even has one) . I've been told that the key might be dirty since it has a security device in it. That's not my problem. My problem is that I baby the car too much and need to get on it sometimes to let it know who is boss!!!

Will post results of pressure test after this weekend.

00 WS6 CONV

Thank you very much!!!

30thWS6

The fuel system is designed to hold pressure long after you have shutdown the car to allow for a quick startup. On return type fuel systems, a fuel pressure regulator on the return line along with a check valve inside the fuel pump on the feed side, enable the system to hold pressure after shutdown. Leaky injectors may also cause a loss of pressure after shutdown. Strangely, the fuel pressure regulator on F-bodies is in the fuel tank with the fuel pump! The unit that looks similar to a regulator on the fuel rail is simply a pulsation dampner, and has no affect on maintaining pressure. To determine whether the check valve, regulator, or one of the injectors is leaky, try the following: After shutdown, with a fuel pressure gauge hooked to the fuel rail shraeder valve, find a way to plug off the the return line(I'm not sure if this is a simple thing on these cars but be creative) and then energize the pump, either with the key, bypassing the relay, etc. If pressure holds, you've found your problem, if not do the same thing on the feed line and see what happens. If it holds when you plug the feed line, you will sadly have to replace the pump. However, if it still refuses to hold pressure, try plugging both feed and return while the system is pressurized and watch to see if the pressure holds. If it still doesn't, then it must be a leaky injector. I hope this helps, I'm sick of seeing this post and you poor people who aren't out driving your bitchin' cars.

1BDWS6

iTrader: (8)

Welp...I put a gauge on mine today. Making 45 PSI on prime, and 60 PSI on cranking. It's getting fuel to the fuel rails but the injectors aren't spraying it into the motor. I'm going to take it to the dealership tomorrow and have them put it on the computer and see if they can trace it down. Would one faulty injector cause the car not to start? And also would it only do SOMETIMES??

30thWS6

No. Next time it doesn't start check to see if you have 12V to the injectors. If you do, then your problem must be related to the ground circuit for the injectors controlled by the PCM. If this is the case then check for spark. If you don't have spark either then it's quite possible you have a crank position sensor that's seen better days.

00 WS6 CONV

Well, fuel pressure was fine and it started everytime while I had it in the garage. Parked it outside all day, that's when it wouldn't start. Even priming didn't work. It did start in neutral several times and then it wouldn't. Wouldn't even hot start. Haven't checked anything electrical yet. Save that for another day....

WS6snake-eater

This may sound off the wall, and you may have en\ven tried it allready, but check the fuel pump relay...it is located onthe left apron. My car does this all the time. I usually just pull the relay and put it back in, and the car starts right up. I think I have a loose terminal onthe back of the fuse box, I'm just too damn lazy to take it out and look. I can acutally be sitting at idle at a stop light and my car will start to loose fuel pressure and the engine will start to jump and sputter. It seems like the sputtering causes enough disturbance that it vibrates the relay back into place, and the fuel pump kicks on again. Can you hear the fuel pump come on when you start the car? Unplug the antenae to make sure that you don't mistake it for the fuel pump.

00 WS6 CONV

Yes, pump is coming on. The car runs great when it does start. Good a smooth at a stop and when you romp on it, it hauls and sounds great. Even tried my spare key to rule out key problems.

1BDWS6

iTrader: (8)

I got mine fixed...it was an Ignition relay control module. Had fuel at fuel rails but control module was not telling injectors to spray fuel into the motor. I believe it only works on startup so once the car is running, it stays running. That's the same thing my car did. Once it started it run like a raped ape, just getting it started somtimes was a pain.

00 WS6 CONV

Let's hear the bad news. How much did it cost? Did you finally take it to the dealer and how did they diagnose it? Any idea where the control module is located and how much it costs? I can always call the dealer but want to see how much they raked you for before they try to squeeze the $$$$ out of me! Where are you located? Enough questions????

Just called the dealer and they don't list a Ignition Relay Control Module. They do list a Anti-Theft Deterent Relay for $33.00. Thought that just shut down the battery not power to injectors.

00 WS6 CONV

Had a guy come out and hook his computer up to it and couldn't find anything wrong. Anyone have anymore suggestions? Car has been in the garage 2 weeks and this poor girl can't afford the luxury of going to a shop. Thought it would at least last until it was paid for without any major problems.

1BDWS6

iTrader: (8)

Cost me 136.66. That was total for diagnosing, the part and fixing. I can look at my bill and see if there is a part number or something on it. I will do this tomorrow for you. I am located in Bowling Green, Ky. I didn't get a chance to talk to tech to see exactly where the module was. (I was in a hurry and also mad at dealer for keeping my car for 4 days to fix it) but atleast it's fixed (so far has start every time I've tried, if it acts up again I'm going back to dealer with an UZI

00 WS6 CONV

4 days!!! I'd be kind of pissed.

Found a guy in my Buick car club that works at a dealer and does dianostics on LS1's. He's probably going to come load it up on his trailer and take it to the shop for me.

00 WS6 CONV

Ok, still need some more input if anyone has got any on the WS6.

The starter cranks normal, but most of the time doesn't start. When it doesn't start, there's no spark and no fuel at the injectors. It does have crank and cam reference and fuel at the rail. No codes in the computer. Tried a new computer, ignition and keys and theft deterrent. There's no definite times it will or won't start.

It's been at the dealer where the guy I know works on LS1's for a week now. No one has ever heard of a problem like this. He's tracing ALL grounds right now to see if any are loose.

I can't be the only one that has ever had this problem! Did I fail to mention it's only got 9,247 miles on it?!? Did I also mention it runs like a scalded dog (when it starts) and looks brand new? My luck!

Come on now, help me guys. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated!

Dee

WS6snake-eater

Did you ever check the relay like I suggested???? Just try it! it takes 30 seconds.