bulletproof 10 bolt build
bulletproof 10 bolt build so i came across an idea a guy had to beef up the 10 bolt, according to him the big problem with the 10 bolts are when you have sticky enough tires they try to pull themselves ahead of the diff due to weak axle tubes which is why most failures or at least the 3 ive had are in the pinion/ring gear. so basically what he has done is taken a ta diff girdle and attached adjustable link arms from the sides of it to the ends of the axle tubes to pretty much hold the pinion gear in place. well its a great idea i think and he claims to make 4k launches on slicks on a regular basis. i want to try it but before i spend the money i wanna hear what others have to say about it!
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Lexington, KY
I think it is a good idea and will certainly be stronger than stock. I would be interested to know how long it holds up under hard launches but I don't think it will be bulletproof. The fact remains the ring gear is too small and weak.
Its a good idea for some extra security if you can do it cheap. It still has a 4cyl sized ring gear That won't take a lot of torque, especially the more/smaller teeth you have (4.10s come to mind).
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Andalusia, AL
Remember to use the thick ring gear. The 3.23 and higher carriers use them. I would just weld up the axle tube to the housing and add renforcement to the front not the back. Some scrap plate steel is alot cheeper than adjustable links.
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Is this something he is planning to produce and sell? How much is he looking to get for the cover and end links? I could see this being a good $500-$600 option for guys who are right around 400hp and run drag radials.
well the whole idea was for a dd/weekend warrior. i know it wont hold up to 1000 hp but 500 might have a chance especially only once and a while on the weekends. and you can buy the diff cover for like 100 bucks off here then the adjustable links are like 40 bucks a piece from jegs then all you gotta do its fabricate brackets to mount em to then tighten em to 10 inch pounds (according to the original guys specs) and there you go. i have also consideres bracing the axle from the front who else has input on that?
Dude, I read this whole thing and my buddy was like "Isn't that your thread? why does your sig have a pic of your old car?" It was an honest mistake as my name happens to be Austin (I'm assuming that's where you're from), I was holding my guitar (so I play too) when he saw me reading this. Also, I reside in a Jacksonville (florida), I'm originally from Texas and I used to own a black SS Camaro. Crazyness.
Anyway, I'm gonna try this. Sounds like a little insurance for the rear end. Good post!
~Austin
Anyway, I'm gonna try this. Sounds like a little insurance for the rear end. Good post!
~Austin
Like putting a bandaid on a sever gash. But for a bolt on car maybe it will do the job. I trashed mine and never launched it once with dr's. Just hard driving did it in. Seal went twice on it at stock power levels, bearing went at 410 rwhp.
At the end of the day it will still be a 7.5 R&P. This brace isn't going to do anything for all of the limitations within the carrier housing. Can it help with axle tube flex and the axles binding the carrier? Yes. Can it help with R&P deflection and the weak center section? Nope. You can buy billet caps, get the gear setup perfect, buy gun drilled 300m axles, jig and brace the housing, etc, etc, etc... You'll ultimately end up with $ and time invested that's > or = to that of a 12, 9, or 60 and only be in the ballpark of the strength (or less).
Rockcrawlers have been down this road with the Toyota front axle. They've chased the weak spots from the birfield joint in... Chromo parts out the ying yang, cryogenics, retubing, gussets, etc... In the end, it was a considerably stronger axle, but none the less, a 8 inch ring gear (actually 7.8). So if you're looking to get a few more miles out of the puny 10-bolt under normal conditions, this could help... BUT I wouldn't slap a set of ET Drags on and head for the track... Without a trailer that is
.
You haven't even touched on what the loading from the torque arm does to the R&P through the weak 10 bolt carrier housing.
Give me a true 500hp/3500lb M6 car with a stock braced 10-bolt, slicks, a prepped track and I'll send it home on a rollback with 1 hour of test & tune 4k launches.
Rockcrawlers have been down this road with the Toyota front axle. They've chased the weak spots from the birfield joint in... Chromo parts out the ying yang, cryogenics, retubing, gussets, etc... In the end, it was a considerably stronger axle, but none the less, a 8 inch ring gear (actually 7.8). So if you're looking to get a few more miles out of the puny 10-bolt under normal conditions, this could help... BUT I wouldn't slap a set of ET Drags on and head for the track... Without a trailer that is
.You haven't even touched on what the loading from the torque arm does to the R&P through the weak 10 bolt carrier housing.
Give me a true 500hp/3500lb M6 car with a stock braced 10-bolt, slicks, a prepped track and I'll send it home on a rollback with 1 hour of test & tune 4k launches.
Last edited by crashinaz; Jun 26, 2009 at 11:21 AM.
Bulletproof you gotta be kidding...It might make the fuse on that time bomb burn a little longer...but a 10 bolt = a tow truck ride home if you drive it like you want to win the race ... save your $$ and purchase a real rear end ... 
definately i know it wont hold forever i just thought it was cool. im looking at truck 9" now ive found a couple for 100 bucks so im just gonna go that route. ive just gotta make a torque arm mount for it and drill the axles for the right bolt pattern along with weld the spring mounts on but it shouldnt be that bad