Rear end question...
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Rear end question... I recently had my cam upgraded in my 2000 SS. I went a little overboard with the cam and the drive ability is a pain at low rps. I'd like to up my gear ratio from 3.42 to 3.90 or 4.10.
My mechanic told me if I swap the gears out my rear end will weaken. Is this true? I'd really like to slap some nittos on it seeing I can't hook for **** now but don't wanna blow the rear end.
My mechanic told me if I swap the gears out my rear end will weaken. Is this true? I'd really like to slap some nittos on it seeing I can't hook for **** now but don't wanna blow the rear end.
i think the way it goes is the more teeth the thinner or weaker the actual gear is. (not by too much) if sticking with the 10 bolt you may want to look into C clip eliminators & girdle to help alittle. cheers
only real thing that will blow stock rear diff. with an upgraded ring snd pinion is excessive power to a tire that will not break loose. driveshaft, u-joints and differential take the most punishment in that scenario.
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From: Roseville, CA
That's what I'm seeing the more I research. I have a bmr TA so I think the strange fits that set up.
Does the rear end come with the gears? I'd really like to change to 4.10s. I can't even drive on the highway in 6th gear unless I'm above or at 70 or the car bucks lol.
Does the rear end come with the gears? I'd really like to change to 4.10s. I can't even drive on the highway in 6th gear unless I'm above or at 70 or the car bucks lol.
I don't know at what point the engaged tooth count
drops, but it does. And you increase the applied torque
to the not-that-stout axle shafts. Maybe you want to
give yourself time to adapt to the new motor reality
(us A4 guys often find ourselves not liking the new
torque converter, right off, but it grows on us). Maybe
your tune wants a little more attention to drivability
as well. I picked a cam that I expected would not be
too much of a low end compromise (224/224 on 116)
and mine still lugs nice and smooth; took some time
with street tuning to get it where I wanted, though.
Bucking is a tune problem. Or a choice-of-gear problem.
Or the two together. Changing rear end gears will only
change the MPH where life sucks. In your case, to some
lower MPH - so, great, now you buck at 60 instead. Is
that progress?
If I were you I'd work through the lower effort options
before you go for something with several known down-
sides (gearing up a 7.5" 10-bolt).
drops, but it does. And you increase the applied torque
to the not-that-stout axle shafts. Maybe you want to
give yourself time to adapt to the new motor reality
(us A4 guys often find ourselves not liking the new
torque converter, right off, but it grows on us). Maybe
your tune wants a little more attention to drivability
as well. I picked a cam that I expected would not be
too much of a low end compromise (224/224 on 116)
and mine still lugs nice and smooth; took some time
with street tuning to get it where I wanted, though.
Bucking is a tune problem. Or a choice-of-gear problem.
Or the two together. Changing rear end gears will only
change the MPH where life sucks. In your case, to some
lower MPH - so, great, now you buck at 60 instead. Is
that progress?
If I were you I'd work through the lower effort options
before you go for something with several known down-
sides (gearing up a 7.5" 10-bolt).
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11 Second Club
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From: Roseville, CA
Tell me about it! I could do so many things with 3k. I think I'm going to go with 3.90's and get some nice street tires and deal with the shitty 6ft. times. Should be a lot more fun on the street and driving it will be easier.
Thread Starter
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From: Roseville, CA
I don't know at what point the engaged tooth count
drops, but it does. And you increase the applied torque
to the not-that-stout axle shafts. Maybe you want to
give yourself time to adapt to the new motor reality
(us A4 guys often find ourselves not liking the new
torque converter, right off, but it grows on us). Maybe
your tune wants a little more attention to drivability
as well. I picked a cam that I expected would not be
too much of a low end compromise (224/224 on 116)
and mine still lugs nice and smooth; took some time
with street tuning to get it where I wanted, though.
Bucking is a tune problem. Or a choice-of-gear problem.
Or the two together. Changing rear end gears will only
change the MPH where life sucks. In your case, to some
lower MPH - so, great, now you buck at 60 instead. Is
that progress?
If I were you I'd work through the lower effort options
before you go for something with several known down-
sides (gearing up a 7.5" 10-bolt).
drops, but it does. And you increase the applied torque
to the not-that-stout axle shafts. Maybe you want to
give yourself time to adapt to the new motor reality
(us A4 guys often find ourselves not liking the new
torque converter, right off, but it grows on us). Maybe
your tune wants a little more attention to drivability
as well. I picked a cam that I expected would not be
too much of a low end compromise (224/224 on 116)
and mine still lugs nice and smooth; took some time
with street tuning to get it where I wanted, though.
Bucking is a tune problem. Or a choice-of-gear problem.
Or the two together. Changing rear end gears will only
change the MPH where life sucks. In your case, to some
lower MPH - so, great, now you buck at 60 instead. Is
that progress?
If I were you I'd work through the lower effort options
before you go for something with several known down-
sides (gearing up a 7.5" 10-bolt).
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Roseville, CA
Not really. BMR ta, car has been lowered 2", after market shocks (can't remember what brand). I only ran the car twice after the cam install so not hooking is partially my fault seeing I wasn't use to the new amount of power. Best 60ft was a 2.3