When will my 10 bolt break?
12-03-2007, 09:49 PM
#85
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i have been running 10 bolts for 10 years now.they only problem i have really had was with the auburn posi. and i have broken 2 of those.i swapped in a carrier out of an s10 and that only lasted one pass.everyone will have problems from time to time and even 9 in rearends and 12 bolts break. i'm sorry but there is no such thing as a bullet proof rearend.everyone says the ring and pinions will break.i have yet to break one and i have had 4 and 5 grand clutch dumps.i even broke an aftermarket axle.my stock axles are back in my car for now.but to each their own.and to let you guys know i only spend money on the rear if i have too.what's that saying go. one man's junk is another man's treasure.i syill have the broke auburn carrier and it will get a mini spool if i break my torsen carrier.
12-11-2007, 07:03 PM
#86
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How will a 40k mile 10 bolt from a 00 WS6 hold up against 380 RWHP in an earlier, 6 speed TA? I just bought a 93, haven't even picked it up yet actually, and part of the deal was swapping in that rear end and drive shaft. It'll probably end up having 3.90 gears installed before I drive it. I don't plan on taking the car to the strip, just aggressively driving it on the weekends. Can it stand up to occasionally being launched on street tires?
12-11-2007, 08:47 PM
#87
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How will a 40k mile 10 bolt from a 00 WS6 hold up against 380 RWHP in an earlier, 6 speed TA? I just bought a 93, haven't even picked it up yet actually, and part of the deal was swapping in that rear end and drive shaft. It'll probably end up having 3.90 gears installed before I drive it. I don't plan on taking the car to the strip, just aggressively driving it on the weekends. Can it stand up to occasionally being launched on street tires?
01-03-2008, 03:48 PM
#88
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I wonder how many people are swapping the rear gear out without the proper tools? And therefore not meeting the correct tollerances? At any rate the first comment is correct, the 10 inch is fine for the street but not the track. So stay off the track or start saving your money for a 12 inch or a quick change or the venerable ford 9.
from the research i have done, the crush sleeve in our 10 bolts is one of the big problems. the power our motors make, crushes the sleeve and messes up the backlash. this causes the pinion to become loose 
which is the roaring noise you hear. then its only a matter of time before you grenade it. 
a shim kit in place of the crush sleeve will fix this problem and extend the life of the 10 bolt.
which is the roaring noise you hear. then its only a matter of time before you grenade it. a shim kit in place of the crush sleeve will fix this problem and extend the life of the 10 bolt. From this link (but it STILL pertains to 10-bolt and 12-bolt GM rears): http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/h..._up/index.html
In lieu of the crush sleeve, a solid spacer can be substituted…, which is the better way to go for several reasons: The solid spacer holds its dimension better under high-load use; it can be reused multiple times; and it allows the drive yoke to be removed and replaced without the possibility of altering the gear setup. Most importantly, though, the solid spacer can be installed normally during the trial assembly, and if the mesh pattern checks out, you're done.
It's worth noting that all gearsets are not created equal. A set of gears that are designed for drag racing are not the same as those set up for the street. The tempering of the gears and the alloys themselves are different. Different applications, different gearsets. What many folks are trying to do is achieve the magical compromise. That's what hotrodding is all about. But the fact is that what's best for the track won't necessarily be best for the street. That's true with ANY rearend - 10-bolt, 12-bolt, F*rd 9", Dana 60, etc., etc.
The rearends that came in the 4th gen F-body are not as good as we would like them to be. They could have been made stronger from the factory. They weren't. They can be made stronger, but there is a good argument not to spend the money there, but rather spend it on a stronger unit such as the 12-bolt or 9". Beat on a car with a stock 10-bolt rear - especially when it's backing up a modded engine - and it will eventually fail. Some will last longer than others. Call them freaks if you want. Personally, I think it has a lot to do with the driver. But it STILL comes down to being set up properly for the application. Setting up a set of rearend gears is NOT for the novice. Can it be done? Absolutely. Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while. j/k No, seriously, it takes time, patience and the proper tools and parts. Experience is a BIG plus. Do it right, and the rearend will likely live to stand up to the job. Do it wrong, and it won't last. Even if it came from an otherwise reputable supplier, it can be done wrong. It happens. I'd much rather take my chances with a properly set-up 10-bolt than with a 12-bolt/9" that was just slapped together halfazzed.
And the fact is that, with the above diagram and a few hand tools and some gear-marking compound, most anybody with just a little mechanical aptitude and/or common sense can CHECK the rearend that they have - even with it still installed in the car. If you hear gear whine or other strange noises coming from your rearend (the one on your car
) take the time to check it BEFORE it blows. An ounce of prevention… as the saying goes.How about this: when you check your gears and they check out okay, then install a solid spacer in place of the crush sleeve. The dimension of the old crush sleeve will tell you the dimension of the crush sleeve that you'll need. Yeah, you have to go through a bit of unpleasantness to do it/have it done, but it can mean the difference between life and death for your rearend. But the gears have to check out as meshing properly. Otherwise it's a lost cause. It will need to be set up properly or replaced - and then set up properly.
01-29-2008, 09:40 PM
#92
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mine seems to be holdin strong....richmond master rebuild kit...100$ motive 373s 180$
moser axles 250$....figure if it breaks i can build 3 maybe 4 10 bolts for the cost of 1 12 bolt.....i do my own work though.....in stock form it is weak but can most definately can be beefed up sao to speak...im about to do c clip eliminators and a girdle....shootin for 10s this season...
moser axles 250$....figure if it breaks i can build 3 maybe 4 10 bolts for the cost of 1 12 bolt.....i do my own work though.....in stock form it is weak but can most definately can be beefed up sao to speak...im about to do c clip eliminators and a girdle....shootin for 10s this season...
02-08-2008, 12:13 PM
#93
I am going to be purchasing a LS1 soon. The 10 bolt breaking is my biggest worry. What can I do to not help it along from breaking? I know to drive it good but every now and then I will want to get up on it. Would you suggest not to slam 1st to 2nd, and slam it 3rd to 4th? I am just real worried about this cause I will be paying for this car for the next 5 years. I wont really have any spare change to put towards a new rear end. Also I understand that every 10 bolt will die at a different time.
What do you guys suggest?
What do you guys suggest?
02-11-2008, 07:16 PM
#94
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I am going to be purchasing a LS1 soon. The 10 bolt breaking is my biggest worry. What can I do to not help it along from breaking? I know to drive it good but every now and then I will want to get up on it. Would you suggest not to slam 1st to 2nd, and slam it 3rd to 4th? I am just real worried about this cause I will be paying for this car for the next 5 years. I wont really have any spare change to put towards a new rear end. Also I understand that every 10 bolt will die at a different time.
What do you guys suggest?
What do you guys suggest?
02-25-2008, 12:44 PM
#96
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Do they tend to break even with street tires? Or is it a DR thing? Looking at buying an SS with 475RWHP and stock 10bolt with 3.73s i think. I guess I'd just be taking my chances taking it to the track and launching it gently?
03-01-2008, 10:42 PM
#98
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Rear Breakage I had a 93 A4 T/A previous to my LS1, It was about 4.5-6 psi supercharged on Nitto's, with 3.73's. daily driving and about 20 passes and broke some teeth off the gears, they were motiv gears. Picked up a whole rear end on ebay for $300 with richmond 3.73's already in it and did the swap myself, ran it 2 years, about 40 passes, no issues. Like they said, 10 bolts are like time bombs, you may get 10 minutes or 10 years out of them... depends on what your doing to them. I'll be doing 4.10's in my LS1, hopefully, they hold up a long time.
03-11-2008, 11:53 PM
#100
i know 10 bolts suck, but i was reading this whole thread and there are people making some fast passes with them with hard launches and not breaking for years.... 1st time, very 1st run, i go to the track mine breaks an axle shaft. now im scared because i had to swap in another 10 bolt because no money. heres my story...
S10 with stock 350 pretty much, headers and crappy intake manifold with 600 holley
almost bald 275 street tires
origional 10 bolt with mini spool thats had a lot of abuse
th350 tranny
i foot braked it a little and floored it and it spun everywhere, i dont even know when it broke. i found out after the run when i looked in my mirror and saw my tire sticking half way out the truck
so now i got another 10 bolt out of a 84' blazer and i put my mini spool in it
also now i did heads, cam, intake, carb, etc... it runs pretty good. about 350rwhp
also i got nitto drag radials now
i want to go to the track again but of course im scared to launch it hard. did i just get real unlucky the first time? compared to everyone else on here it seems like it should have held up better. when i go to the track next time i was just gunna let off the brake and ease into the gas....or you think it should hold up better and i can launch it?
S10 with stock 350 pretty much, headers and crappy intake manifold with 600 holley
almost bald 275 street tires
origional 10 bolt with mini spool thats had a lot of abuse
th350 tranny
i foot braked it a little and floored it and it spun everywhere, i dont even know when it broke. i found out after the run when i looked in my mirror and saw my tire sticking half way out the truck
so now i got another 10 bolt out of a 84' blazer and i put my mini spool in it
also now i did heads, cam, intake, carb, etc... it runs pretty good. about 350rwhp
also i got nitto drag radials now
i want to go to the track again but of course im scared to launch it hard. did i just get real unlucky the first time? compared to everyone else on here it seems like it should have held up better. when i go to the track next time i was just gunna let off the brake and ease into the gas....or you think it should hold up better and i can launch it?