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When will my 10 bolt break?

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Old 06-05-2008, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarod Engelbrecht
Does that mean, in your oppinion, that I will have to purchase a new aftermarket rear end rather than finding a wrecked truck in a salvage yard and robbing the rear end out of it?
yes or you could check the parts for sale section here
Old 06-05-2008, 05:15 PM
  #122  
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Thanks for the help!
Old 06-09-2008, 10:20 PM
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my car has a detroit locker and moser axels. it is a little bit of a weird story. i bought the car, and it had a bent axel and control arm. I ordered lakewood control arms and then i ordered moser axels. When i went to install the axels, i discovered that the car had a trutrac system.
Old 07-11-2008, 12:48 PM
  #124  
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i broke my 10 bolt rightn after i had the motor built up it was weird though, i have a torsion and two of the four bolts that hold the carrier together backed out hit the housing grinding a buch of metal pieces and then broke off, i rebuilt it with some bolts i got from lows(Grade 8 bolts) it lasted a couple of months, when we put the twelve bolt in it still worked but had a little metal on the magnet and it still has a damaged housing, the damn thing has been sliding around in the back of my truck for like a month or two.
Old 07-15-2008, 11:05 AM
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I have a 2007 GMC with a 3.73 posi, I wonder if that rear is a POS too?
I tow 6000lbs with it. I guess I better check the fluid in my 10 bolt and inspect the gear faces. seems if you have a M6 and like hard launches you stand a better chance of killing one
Old 07-15-2008, 05:26 PM
  #126  
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Can't tell you about the 2007 GMC, but I have '67 and '72 Chevy pickups. Both have the truck 12-bolt. The truck 12-bolt rears are inferior to the car 12-bolt rears. The pinion gear shaft is smaller in diameter. Still pretty strong. Don't get me wrong. It's just that the car 12-bolts are stronger.
Old 09-23-2008, 10:32 PM
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I put a 97 z28 10 bolt in my 86 z28 and what do you know I broke it with a dam 305 with a cam and intake. that rear end was the biggest mistake GM has made except for the Cavalier
Old 09-28-2008, 01:52 PM
  #128  
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Default 10 Bolt

Just broke 10 bolt last night on the steet going to race a ws6 and i was rollin in 1st gear and went to motor purge air out of my lines and hooked and snaped the rear.Thinking about going with a 12 bolt spraying a 100 shot with nitto nt55r's it held up to atleast 10 full bottles and all i do is 20 rolls and digs.
Old 10-13-2008, 06:55 PM
  #129  
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The rear end in my car is the stock 1995 one. I have 61000km, I'm not to sure how many miles that is (40000 miles?). With my setup on a mustang dyno at decent elevation on a mild temperature day april 2008, I made 313 rwhp and 316 rwtq.

This summer I put over 20 passes on 26x10 hoosier slicks. I was leaving the line at between 5200 to 6200 rpm depending on the day. I have mosier 28 spline axles (summit), and royal purple diff fluid. I cange the oil every two or three years, and check the level all the time.

I just changed my clutch from the original to a centerforce dual and had my fly wheel machined. The fly wheel showed obivious signs of slipage on the surface. But I have yet to run the slicks on the new clutch. I'm guessing the slip was a cushion for the diff untill now.
Old 02-26-2009, 05:05 AM
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I have broke my stock 10 bolt once about 3 years ago and I replace the stock carrier with an Auburn Pro Carrier,Moser Axles,3.73s,& T/A Stud Girdle. I bought this car new and it has 88k miles on it. Ive been racing it since 2004. Ive cut many many low 1.5x 60's and Ive cut a few 1.47 60's. My stock carrier actually lasted a good 2 years before it broke and since Ive added those upgrades I havent had any trouble out of it. Knock on wood!!!
Old 02-26-2009, 07:11 AM
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never the stock 10-bolt is stong as hell...1.38s here....haha jk i must be lucky as hell
Old 02-26-2009, 09:15 AM
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Oh, it will break when you spray an 80 shot through a cammed LT1 in 4th gear at 60. Trust me. I know.

D
Old 03-01-2009, 03:22 PM
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I have yet to see one person say they broke their 10 bolt on the street without drags or nitros. Maybe that guy who was doing a donut and hit a pot hole or something but that's it. If your running my power you can get by on the street with your 10 bolt I would say. Anything more I would probably upgrade.

edit: I just broke mine, 36k miles. lame...

Last edited by Sicko; 03-17-2009 at 10:53 PM.
Old 03-18-2009, 11:07 AM
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Mine just **** the bed again.

My second Torsen just died. It's making all kinds of wonderful noises. I'm interested to see what kind of carnage lies behind the cover.

I guess it just didn't like 1.57 60's. I can't complain, I've gotten 320+ passes, about 45,000 miles, and an 11.623 out of this build, with the following things replaced at one time or another:

-Gear set (Precision 3.73's that weren't set up right)
-Pinion seal (twice)
-Torsen Posi (about to be twice)
-Pinion bearings (both)
-Crush sleeve

This was on all stock bearings, axles, and no girdle, by the way. The car hooks to a low 1.6 every time.

I actually only have about $350 in the rear as it sits now. I find deals on parts and do my own work.

I've been meaning to build the rear for a while now, and haven't had the cash. Now I've gotta dig into my rainy day fund to fix this thing, since it's my daily. Luckily I've got a spare housing sitting around, so I can do the setup out of the car, then swap backing plates and axles once I get the old 10-bolt out.

The following goodies are going in Friday or Sunday:

-Motive Perfomance 3.73's
-Eaton Truetrac
-Full bearing kit
-Ratech Solid spacer

I'm hoping that it'll last another 300 passes and 45,000 miles. I'm setting the gears up personally this time, so no whine! It'll be nice to have a quiet car again.
Old 03-18-2009, 02:01 PM
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The 10 bolt is a hit or miss and is all about setup.

I had a friend with a stock A4 LT1 break his rear end twice on the street, on street tires.

I have a cammed, full boltons, 4000 stall, drag radial car running 1.7 60s and 11s with a stock rear other than 3.73s. 50+ passes and 10k of street driving so far.
Old 07-03-2009, 11:12 AM
  #136  
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I stripped teeth off an axle and had a worn pinion bearing after a few dragstrip passes.


I just tore up the pinion bearings AGAIN on a hard 1->2 shift on the street.

Car is a bolt on 346rwhp TA.
Old 12-31-2010, 12:10 AM
  #137  
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I guess I will be posting pictures of the destruction after my wife launches my 94. I am betting 3 passes. 496 BBC/Powerglide, 3000 stall. Hope I have the time to fab up a 12 before race season.
Old 01-04-2011, 04:39 PM
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why are people putting DR's on stock 10 bolts? The deal with DR's is that they have no sidewall flex and if they hook like they should, then they will almost always break the pinion gear. TOO MUCH SHOCK....... Now people should be putting either street tires on OR running a bias ply slick. These types of slicks GIVE and let the power come in strong but not shock anything. This is the REASON for sidewall flex.
Old 01-07-2011, 10:56 PM
  #139  
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wow this makes me scared.....i hope i get lucky and my rear makes it through the summer. 386hp m6........
Old 01-14-2011, 11:17 AM
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its gonna break but when u least expect it haha. Mine became noisy after 410 install on street with drag radials. But still running strong, just waiting for it to leave me stranded. But even after noise made about 30 1/4 mile passes with a best of 11.9 with a 1.66. good luck.


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