Auburn Vs. Torsen Which is the better differential?
12-06-2006, 05:47 PM
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Auburn Vs. Torsen Which is the better differential? Auburn Vs. Torsen Which differential is better? And how much approx. are they both worth(used Auburn about 70 miles) (torsen brand new)?
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12-06-2006, 05:51 PM
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i like torsens because they are torque biasing and there are no clutches or cones to wear out. Which is stronger, i dont know, my guess would be an auburn is stronger
12-06-2006, 06:04 PM
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Auburn for going straight, Torsen for power-cornering.
Auburn, like Torsen, has a range of diff bias or clamping.
The "Pro" is meant for abuse and so what if it drives
like a spool. The regular is softer and streetable unless
you like being a clown in the rain. Similarly if you go up
to a T-2R you will be able to fishtail to your heart's
content should you choose, while the stock Torsen is
more forgiving because once one tire spins, wheel
torque is cut back more substantially.
Figure out what matters most to you because each of
them has strengths and drawbacks.
Torsens are not recommended for drag cars really.
They do OK on the street and road but if you put it
up against slicks and a lot of torque, and try to make
it bias all that, maybe go pop. An Auburn, just roast
the clutches and send it in for rebuild.
Auburn, like Torsen, has a range of diff bias or clamping.
The "Pro" is meant for abuse and so what if it drives
like a spool. The regular is softer and streetable unless
you like being a clown in the rain. Similarly if you go up
to a T-2R you will be able to fishtail to your heart's
content should you choose, while the stock Torsen is
more forgiving because once one tire spins, wheel
torque is cut back more substantially.
Figure out what matters most to you because each of
them has strengths and drawbacks.
Torsens are not recommended for drag cars really.
They do OK on the street and road but if you put it
up against slicks and a lot of torque, and try to make
it bias all that, maybe go pop. An Auburn, just roast
the clutches and send it in for rebuild.
12-06-2006, 07:04 PM
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I had a aubrn por seires in my car it lasted two months not impressd at all i put the stock torsen style diff back in and have had no problem my car is an m6 and i drag it alot and luanch it at 4500 rpm. this winter i will put a 9" in my car i orderd the housing and axles today i think i am going to put a detroit truetrack (torsen style) in it but im not sure yet.
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12-06-2006, 07:20 PM
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[QUOTE=jimmyblue]Auburn for going straight, Torsen for power-cornering.
Auburn, like Torsen, has a range of diff bias or clamping.
The "Pro" is meant for abuse and so what if it drives
like a spool. The regular is softer and streetable unless
you like being a clown in the rain.
I'm running an Auburn Pro posi and it doesn't drive like a spool at all. In fact there is absolutely no difference in driveability from the stock Auburn. No chatter, no noise and no squeeling tires around turns. It is much tighter than the stocker though. With one wheel on the ground the stocker took 50 ft-lbs to turn the other wheel. The pro takes 100 ft-lbs.
Auburn, like Torsen, has a range of diff bias or clamping.
The "Pro" is meant for abuse and so what if it drives
like a spool. The regular is softer and streetable unless
you like being a clown in the rain.
I'm running an Auburn Pro posi and it doesn't drive like a spool at all. In fact there is absolutely no difference in driveability from the stock Auburn. No chatter, no noise and no squeeling tires around turns. It is much tighter than the stocker though. With one wheel on the ground the stocker took 50 ft-lbs to turn the other wheel. The pro takes 100 ft-lbs.
12-06-2006, 07:55 PM
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For road race and all weather driving the torsen will behave better. In most wet or slippery conditions when the car is being driven like a normal person there will be very little difference between the two, so it is almost a wash there. The pro is going to be a little worse, but still manageable and probably not even noticeable under most conditions. In a straight line the auburn will be a little better because it is a preloaded diff, although the reaction time of a torsen is minimal. The pro auburn would be the best choice of them all for drag because it is preloaded stiffer and has a heavier duty case.
I have driven Auburn pro's in the winter, in chicago, in a truck, so they are manageable- it just may not be the best choice for everyone.
I have driven Auburn pro's in the winter, in chicago, in a truck, so they are manageable- it just may not be the best choice for everyone.
12-27-2006, 02:50 PM
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One wheel peel is just the low torque biasing range
of the factory Torsen, being less than the ratio of
static to kinetic friction of the tires to the road (less
wheel lift suspension reaction which is also stealing
tire down force).
Factory Torsen only has about a 2:1 bias range and
it's not uncommon for static/sliding "mu" values to
differ by way more than that.
Once you jerk the passenger's wheel up and spin it,
you'll only put 2X that to the still-stuck driver's
wheel and never exceed the breakaway torque.
If this is your only problem then it's a good problem
because spinning the second tire is going to likely
apply less road friction force than once you slide it.
A high-bias diff (like T-2R) will give you more torque
to the stuck wheel -up to the breakaway point- but
after that it's all back to tires no matter what chunk.
of the factory Torsen, being less than the ratio of
static to kinetic friction of the tires to the road (less
wheel lift suspension reaction which is also stealing
tire down force).
Factory Torsen only has about a 2:1 bias range and
it's not uncommon for static/sliding "mu" values to
differ by way more than that.
Once you jerk the passenger's wheel up and spin it,
you'll only put 2X that to the still-stuck driver's
wheel and never exceed the breakaway torque.
If this is your only problem then it's a good problem
because spinning the second tire is going to likely
apply less road friction force than once you slide it.
A high-bias diff (like T-2R) will give you more torque
to the stuck wheel -up to the breakaway point- but
after that it's all back to tires no matter what chunk.
12-27-2006, 03:20 PM
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im not sure what that guy just said but it sounds pretty important so id just listen to him....
I know I get two rails every time I drop the clutch or even just chirp them around town. If you always had this problem i could just attribute it to how it was built, and what jim says rings true, although to this day im not 100% sure im 100% sure that im 100% sure how the whole torsen concept works, i mean i think i understand it, the worm gears will transfer force from the non-slipping axle to the slipping axle. If you always had two rails and all of a sudden on day (after doing dounuts in the K-mart parking lot) it started giving you the one wheel peal, there is a chance you hurt one of the worm gears, i hear its pretty comon according to this site, search some posts you may find something. I hear ya on the waiting till the summer, i played hockey in Minesoda a few years back, it gets pretty cold up there, but if you use the car in the snow it may be worth pulling the cover and checking for any broken pieces. Just remember when you change the pinion seal you dont have to remove the inspection cover but its always a good idea to do so, and i dont know if you have done pinion seals before but if you didnt.. make sure you mark the nut before you do it!
good luck
I know I get two rails every time I drop the clutch or even just chirp them around town. If you always had this problem i could just attribute it to how it was built, and what jim says rings true, although to this day im not 100% sure im 100% sure that im 100% sure how the whole torsen concept works, i mean i think i understand it, the worm gears will transfer force from the non-slipping axle to the slipping axle. If you always had two rails and all of a sudden on day (after doing dounuts in the K-mart parking lot) it started giving you the one wheel peal, there is a chance you hurt one of the worm gears, i hear its pretty comon according to this site, search some posts you may find something. I hear ya on the waiting till the summer, i played hockey in Minesoda a few years back, it gets pretty cold up there, but if you use the car in the snow it may be worth pulling the cover and checking for any broken pieces. Just remember when you change the pinion seal you dont have to remove the inspection cover but its always a good idea to do so, and i dont know if you have done pinion seals before but if you didnt.. make sure you mark the nut before you do it!
good luck
