Kobwo

The car in ? will be a 94Z. Will we have to do anything special to bolt in the new rear?

SSINFUL

Yeah. The yoke will be bigger/longer, so you will need a custom length DS.

Kobwo

Anything else or will it bolt right up?

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

Very little. I had to drill a couple holes(in the brackets on the new diff) for the alignment pins on the parking brake cable brackets. Your rear brake lines will have to be cable tied or something(no clips on new diff). Need 3" muffler clamps for the sway bar attachment(old clamps are now too small). Other than that pretty straight forward.
You really oughtta try what I did and pull your rear, drop your gas tank and install a new fuel pump then reinstall everything completely by yourself. Heeehee...what a blast! Not!

theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

On the 4 channel(abs and tcs) I had to grind the end of the tube to get my abs sensors to clear.

Savageite

Yea I got the same qeustion but my car is a 02. Would it be any different. I didn't think I had to get a new driveshaft.

DERTY

I've got a 12 bolt with the 1350 yoke in my 02 and the stock length shaft is fine on a M6. Not sure on an A4 if this is any different. Fits like a glove though. Top notch piece of work!

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

The stock-length driveshaft works just fine. You just have to change the u-joint for whichever yoke you got with your 12-bolt (1310 standard or 1350 upgrade).

Trevor - LGM

Savageite

How much is the u-joint cost because I'm going to get the 1350 yoke. Also it's a M-6 if that matters.

DERTY

About 30 bucks from NAPA. Make sure you get the right size conversion u-joint that goes 1350 on one and stock on the other. The width's of the two sides will be very different.

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

I have the billet 1350 yoke and yes I had to have the DS shortened about 1 inch. M6 car..

Colonel

Stock driveshaft worked fine for my 9" and my 12-bolt. It was originally an A4.

It shouldn't matter if it's an A4 or an M6. The stock driveshafts are the same for either.

<small>[ September 26, 2002, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

All I can tell you is that when I received my ACPT CF DS, after install it was completely bottomed out in the trans. The seal on the back of the trans tailshaft was touching the bottom of the slip yoke on the DS. Maybe ACPT sent me one that was actually longer than the stock one? Anyway I've been waiting on the correct length DS for about 3 weeks now. I was told by a very reputable source that the BILLET yoke is one inch longer from u-joint centerline to ring gear centerline than the standard yoke. Don't get HOSED like I did and have to ship stuff to California and back 50 times...

SSINFUL

Wow. All over the map w/ altering the ds length...

I'm not sure I'm getting a consistent story on my impending set-up either. I hear that, even if the stock length ds works, I will need to alter the ds end to accept a bigger U-joint. And, the feller said NOT to put in a conversion (different size ends?) U-joint, but to alter for size.

Guess I'll haveta wait and see....

Anybody swap springs or other components while doing this (lowering)? Howsabout time differences w/ the added weight? Howsabout swapping the front end suspension pieces (K-arms, etc) to alleviate increase in weight?

DERTY

Who said to put on the bigger end to the driveshaft? You are going to strengthen anything doing that because you still have a SMALL u-joint at the tailshaft end of the trans! Of course if you wanted to take an inch out then you can get a 1350 end put on. But it won't be any stronger in total.