Midwest Chassis & Performance fab rearends... new pics
#462
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Ordered my Fab 9" this afternoon, Eric is a good guy to talk to. I'm looking forward to when it is in the car. A big thanks to Eric for the return call and the time conversing about the setup.
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#463
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Eric I got a great Idea![Thinker](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/thinker.gif)
Why don't you list everyone in ORDER that has ordered a rear from you on this site and make weekly updates on the list. This way everyone can see where they stand on the list and predict pretty well when they will receive there rearend.
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Why don't you list everyone in ORDER that has ordered a rear from you on this site and make weekly updates on the list. This way everyone can see where they stand on the list and predict pretty well when they will receive there rearend.
#465
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What the price for 12 bolt, 33 spline posi, no abs/tcs, 3.73 gear,12mm long studs,aluminum cover,lca reloc brackets, narrowed 3" per side with bearing pressed on(strange backing plates) shipped to business 33803.
Thanks
Thanks
#466
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haven't got the parts in my hands yet, but the steel supplier is telling me that it will be any day now. we have been busy building all the other components that go along with the rearends though. it all takes time.
the injured employee is still recovering at home. just got the staples out of his leg and some other things. not sure exactly when he will be able to work again, but i hope it is soon. i did have one part-timer go to full time, and he is a good fabricator/welder, also.
#471
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I'm in the market for a new rear and so far this looks like the best deal out there for the money considering what you're getting.
How is this rear end working out for everyone so far?
Was interested to see if anybody has broken their gears in enough yet to go make some launches at the track?
Just trying to figure out if gear whine is present with this setup, I currently have it in my 10 bolt and it drives me crazy
I'd like the confidence in knowing that the $3K I'll be spending will at least cut down on the noise coming from back there a little bit.....was considering an S60 but more often that not people are having noise issues.
How is this rear end working out for everyone so far?
Was interested to see if anybody has broken their gears in enough yet to go make some launches at the track?
Just trying to figure out if gear whine is present with this setup, I currently have it in my 10 bolt and it drives me crazy
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I'd like the confidence in knowing that the $3K I'll be spending will at least cut down on the noise coming from back there a little bit.....was considering an S60 but more often that not people are having noise issues.
#472
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I got my rearend and It was worth the wait. It looks too nice to put under the car. The install was painless with 1 little issue. I run Koni shocks, the stud on the konis is slightly larger than the OEM decarbon shock. When I went to put the rearend in the holt was slightly too small. I test fit a decarbon and it fit fine. I checked on my stock 10bolt and GM makes the hole oversize, and I thing koni either tries to tighten up the fit Or its just because their stud is metric I had to open up the hole slightly. I got it in the car and it is silent, quieter than the 10bolt was new. A big plus is that the shifter no longer moves when you get on/off the gas, I have the full length TA. On the autox course that can be a plus.
I set it up using the 2nd hole from the botton on the crossmember mount, I never asked which one to use. It seems to be fine. I still need to finalize the pinion angle( I really dont know exactly how to check it with accuracy)
One thing I will want to do in the future is make up some new brake lines. I the OEM lines fit, but with all the bends they used to fit around the cast 10bolt and the ugly ribbing on them, they just plain look bad.
I am also happy I have the tie down loops added to the housing. They made it easier to move the housing around during the install.
I set it up using the 2nd hole from the botton on the crossmember mount, I never asked which one to use. It seems to be fine. I still need to finalize the pinion angle( I really dont know exactly how to check it with accuracy)
One thing I will want to do in the future is make up some new brake lines. I the OEM lines fit, but with all the bends they used to fit around the cast 10bolt and the ugly ribbing on them, they just plain look bad.
I am also happy I have the tie down loops added to the housing. They made it easier to move the housing around during the install.
#474
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Mine is also quiet, even with the 4.30 gears and beating the **** out of it all the time. I did run into two small problems with my rear end on the install, but all is fixed now.
The first problem was the passenger side axle was the wrong one. Apparently, the different posi units use slightly different length axles. I called eric and he has seen the problem before and suggested i could just cut a 1/4" off the end of the axle. I put a hose clamp around the axle to use as a guide, and used an abrasive cut off wheel to cut it off. I then smoothed it out, and tapered the end of the splines, just like stock. You can’t even tell it was cut I am sure I would have been able to send it back and get the proper one, but I wanted it installed that night, so I did it myself.
The second minor problem I ran into to was when I first started driving it. I was getting a horrible chattering sound coming from the posi unit around turns. It turns out that I needed to add another bottle of posi additive because it used almost a whole gallon of fluid. After adding the other bottle, the noise went away and it has been quiet as hell since.
All in all, if you can handle the wait for it, I would HIGHLY suggest this rear end. It is the highest quality product I have ever seen and is priced great.
Speaking of the torque arm, what is the best way to set the pinion angle? Where is a good starting point to start adjusting? I know how to set the pinion angle, but what setting on the crossmember is best? Higher or lower? Or is that just to get the pinion angle close, then fine tune it by the adjuster nut at the rear end?
Thanks, Jeff
The first problem was the passenger side axle was the wrong one. Apparently, the different posi units use slightly different length axles. I called eric and he has seen the problem before and suggested i could just cut a 1/4" off the end of the axle. I put a hose clamp around the axle to use as a guide, and used an abrasive cut off wheel to cut it off. I then smoothed it out, and tapered the end of the splines, just like stock. You can’t even tell it was cut I am sure I would have been able to send it back and get the proper one, but I wanted it installed that night, so I did it myself.
The second minor problem I ran into to was when I first started driving it. I was getting a horrible chattering sound coming from the posi unit around turns. It turns out that I needed to add another bottle of posi additive because it used almost a whole gallon of fluid. After adding the other bottle, the noise went away and it has been quiet as hell since.
All in all, if you can handle the wait for it, I would HIGHLY suggest this rear end. It is the highest quality product I have ever seen and is priced great.
Speaking of the torque arm, what is the best way to set the pinion angle? Where is a good starting point to start adjusting? I know how to set the pinion angle, but what setting on the crossmember is best? Higher or lower? Or is that just to get the pinion angle close, then fine tune it by the adjuster nut at the rear end?
Thanks, Jeff
#476
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any of the aftermarket rearends for the f-bodys need to have some sort of brake mount installed before the axle bearing is pressed on. the brake caliper mount becomes the axle retainer as there are no c-clips on any of them. you will need to supply some sort of brakes whether it is your factory ones, used ones or new ones are available.
the axle bearing installation is not a hard job. any auto shop with a press can handle it.. it takes me about 10 minutes per axle to do the work. this is an option if you don't wanna supply your brakes to Strange or purchase new ones.
the price for the rearend you have inquired about is 2750.00 shipped to you. Strange does not offer relocator brackets, but i can throw in a set for you to install.
the axle bearing installation is not a hard job. any auto shop with a press can handle it.. it takes me about 10 minutes per axle to do the work. this is an option if you don't wanna supply your brakes to Strange or purchase new ones.
the price for the rearend you have inquired about is 2750.00 shipped to you. Strange does not offer relocator brackets, but i can throw in a set for you to install.
#477
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Speaking of the torque arm, what is the best way to set the pinion angle? Where is a good starting point to start adjusting? I know how to set the pinion angle, but what setting on the crossmember is best? Higher or lower? Or is that just to get the pinion angle close, then fine tune it by the adjuster nut at the rear end?
Thanks, Jeff
the setting on the height adjustable pivot link is to tune the chassis bite. most M6 or high stall/transbrake cars will use lower settings, auto/footbrake cars will use higher settings. it depends on the power, tires, and launch rpm you are using to determine whats best. every car is a bit different, so the best way is to go to a test n tune day at the track and try a few different combinations to see what your particular setup wants for best 60 foot times.
i usually set up most people in the second hole from the bottom, and then adjust the pinion angle at the adjuster on the rear of the torque arm. pinion angle as a rule of thumb should be two degrees down from the angle of the driveshaft to start with. i never use the horizon to refer pinion angle from. pinion angle is the difference between the pinion and the driveshaft working angles. also keep in mind that the lca length will affect the wheelbase and pinion angle when adjusted. the lca's need to be adjusted as the pinion angle and lca position are changed.
#479
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