ski23

iTrader: (21)

Yes thanks for your help. Now im searching for abs delete info. Might delete it all.

Slvr00Bird

iTrader: (2)

Hey Eric,
What do you recommend for limited slip additive? Break in technique? Grease weight for break in and for post-break in? Synthetic? Any other good info/recommendations?

Thanks,
Addison

ski23

iTrader: (21)

Hey guys, Im gonna send in my backing plates and rings to Eric. I got the plates and mounts off the 10 bolt and the rubber boot for the ebrake is basically gone. Do these come with a new set of backing plates? Or can I find a rebuild kit or something at Napa? I tried to get the screws out of the cylinder to seperate it from backing plate but there rusted on. Whats the trick to getting these off? I tapped a Philips on each screw and no luck. I threw some PB blaster on em so will see if they loosen up a bit. Im gonna miss the ol 10 bolt, NOT. Got it all tore down, pig out, driveshaft off and plates off within 1.5 hr

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

I havent seen any yet with those in tact, so are the heads of the bolts stripped? May have to drill them out.

slim0035

iTrader: (2)

I thought they had small nuts on them, say 8mm or so? I had no trouble getting mine off, other than cleaning all the gunk off of them so I could see them. And good question on the rebuild kit....anyone know?

ski23

iTrader: (21)

I was in a hurry to get them off and didnt pay attention with the gunk around the head. I had to run my daughter to gymnastics and looked at it better when I got home. There philips headed screw with hex head also. Came right off, now I gotta find a rebuild kit or something with the boot. Im gonna clean up the caliper mounts, backing plates and throw a coat of flat black on them before I send out to Midwest.

faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

I have checked autozone, advance auto parts, napa, carquest, and orielley's for those boots and no one has them. I work at a chevrolet dealership and the only way i could buy those boots for my 98 trans am is if i bought the backing plate, dust shield, ebrake shoe, and all the misc hardware back there. It is $270 per side public cost and $170 my cost. Either way the price made me sick so i am not sporting any rubber boots. Dont take it off roading and youll be fine

faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

I just got my rear last week. I am happy with it so far. It is only installed and it wont get any drive time til this spring . My only complaint is the usual and that i was told 3 weeks and it was almost 3 months. Here is a pic of it installed.

No Juice

iTrader: (11)

Well if he can guarantee that it will not create anymore noise than my current TA set up, then I might be sold. My car is strictly a street car. However its been my experience that chassis mounted TA's create a lot more noise in the car since its transfering all the road and rear end noise right into the cabin through the floor.

I'm interested in the cost difference regardless whether its more or less.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

It would be foolish for anyone including Eric to guarentee that road noise or any other noise will not occur when it comes installing to aftermarket NON OEM engineered performance parts. Just a fact Jack.

I have no more noise with the Midwest TA than I had with my Spohn TA. In fact what I notice more so than noise is the feeling of the bumps in the road or going over a bridge etc as a result of the chassis mounted TA.

Now if one has whining gears, the tubular TA is going to amplify the noise more than the stock TA. Again just the way it is. It should also be known that Eric uses a rubber grommet in the lower end of the pivot link and a teflon lined heim joint on the top so there is no metal to metal contact. This will also dampen things a good bit and reduce noise as much as possible.

The Midwest TA does an great job of getting the power to the wheels and not robbing torque as a result of the stock arm or adapter flexing. Since the attach points of the TA where it attaches to the housing are at least 12" apart or so, the thing is tough as nails.

My car is a street car and I am not one bit bothered by road noise at all. The slightly bumpier ride does not bother me either. And if my wife aint complaining, there aint a problem.

Slvr00Bird

iTrader: (2)

RedRyder518

iTrader: (2)

Just curious if anyone has had their gears Mikronited before put in this rear?

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

You always could. But if your gonna do that you might as well piece together your own center section & send the gears in. They will require you to remove the gears & send them in clean. So any set-up done by Eric would be lost at that point.

I'm sending payment in for a set-up minus center section within the next 2 weeks hopefully. I'm buying all my center pieces off Ebay for about $800 & that includes a Strange "S" case & brand new Detriot TruTrack.

RedRyder518

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking you could pay Eric to ship them over to have it done, then shipped back to him....though you do bring up a good point.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

i do offer the coated gearsets if anyone wants one done. it is 175.00 for the gearset at the time of purchase. coated bearings are available as well.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

Eric, how much is that anti-sway bar? I keep thinking about it and that would finish off my rear suspension for good!

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

how street able is that sway bar?

Slvr00Bird

iTrader: (2)

First time I've heard of Mikronited.. seems to be pretty cool.. wonder how much noise reduction, etc..

Of course if the rear is set up and the moon is aligned right, there shouldn't be noise anyway.. lol

DiabloFormula

iTrader: (58)

Well everyone, it's been fun reading all this, but it's time to unsubscribe for me, here's my seperate post on my MWC Fab.9.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...l#post10656222

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

the chromemoly tubular anti-sway bar that is setup as a bolt-on kit for my fabricated 9 inch rearend is 350.00 as an option for customers. all you have to do is weld the drop link upper mount bracket to the frame rail next to the stock bracket. you could swap from the stock bar to the race style within minutes after the first install. this setup is the same components i use on the 200 mph top sportsman cars.