97T/A

I am storing my car for the first time this winter in a couple of weeks and i want to know what needs to be done. It will not be readily accessible so i wont get it back out until about march. So far i know i need to drain radiator, and fill it with antifreeze, add stabil to the gas, disconnect the battery and put it on jackstands. If i am forgetting anything or you have any other suggestions let me know.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I guess it depends on how nit-picky you are. Mine is currently in Storage, I took the Battery out of it and placed it on the floor along side of it, and I took the Push Rods out of the Engine to completely close off the Cylinders, and to keep stress off of the Valvetrain. Then I put a rag over the MAF and tighened up the Pipe Clamp that goes there over it so it's not going anywhere..

bigbird01

iTrader: (3)

If your gonna put it on jackstands I recomend placing them on the suspension so its compressed ...I heard its not good to leave the suspension hanging for long periods. If you end up leaving it on the ground for some reason set the tires to max psi to help prevent flat spots. Moth ***** and dryer sheets help the inside stay dry, keep the bugs out, and make it smell good too.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Don't place your battery on the cement - it can kill the battery. At least prop it up on a block of wood.

bLuE_DeViLz28

if you dont put the car on jack stands put your tire pressure up to 50-55psi so your tires wont get flat spotted

StoleIt

iTrader: (3)

Damn a lot of you guys are more hard core than me.


Disconnect battery. Cover car. Fin.

L3DFOOT

Suggestions for Preparation of Vehicles for Storage
General Motors Pontiac Historical Society [ed: circa 1990]


Precipitation, extreme temperatures, freeze/thaw cycles, sunlight, soot, and other outdoor conditions are very detrimental to vehicles in dead storage - outdoor storage is to be avoided. Indoor storage location should have reasonably cool temperature, and not allow direct sun (causes uneven paint/upholstery/rubber aging). If storage area has windows, sunlight can be effectively reduced by painting inside window glass blue or black. Do not store vehicle where coal, smoke, ammonia, or other detrimental fumes may be present.

Tire storage: store in cool, dark, dry place void of air currents, oil, and grease. Under no circumstances allow sunlight to reach tires. If tires have any petroleum-based product on them (grease, oil, etc) clean with alcohol ONLY. Normal seepage will relieve tire pressure after time.

LESS THAN 30-DAYS:
1. Wash vehicle exterior to remove surface dirt. Clear all foreign material that will deteriorate exterior surfaces (oils, grease, bugs, mud, etc). Apply fresh wax or acrylic sealant to all exterior painted -AND- plated surfaces.
2. Check engine coolant and if necessary increase antifreeze protection. Check battery, charge if specific gravity is below 1.255 to avoid freezing and deterioration. Inflate tires to recommended pressure.
3. Interior: all floor covering and interior trim should be thoroghly cleaned. Spray entire interior with a stain-free moth repellent (dichloricide). Apply premium furniture wax to wood inserts. Leave front floor mats in normal position on floor (not rolled-up). Apply body wax to interior chrome plated parts. Take precautions to prevent intrusion by vermin and insects.
4. Run engine until completely warm (fast idle for at least 15 minutes). On A/C equipped vehicles, run the climate control during this period to ensure lubrication of compressor seals.
5. Park vehicle in clean, dry, enclosed area. Make sure all windows are closed. Leave parking brake off; engage manual transmissions into reverse gear. Remove anything from vehicle that might freeze, melt, corrode, or otherwise deteriorate - CHECK THE TRUNK AND GLOVEBOX.
6. Rag-tops: DO NOT store convertibles with top down. Keep top immaculately clean. Car cover is mandatory to prevent dust/dirt from penetrating top fabric. Coat folding mechanism parts with body wax. Store away from sunlight and heat. Protect all rubber weatherstrip by coating with dielectric silicone grease.
7. Lock all doors.
8. Cover tires with cardboard or plywood to prevent sun damage. Disconnect *both* cables to prevent slow discharge and possibility of fire due to short.
9. Cover vehicle to protect against corrosive fumes, dust/dirt buildup, bird droppings, and other foreign material that might fall onto paint via windows, doors, or other openings. Secure cover tightly to prevent rub-though on paint, especially in breezy areas.

STORAGE BEYOND 30-DAYS:
Follow all steps listed above (less than 30-days) plus the following:
1. Immediately after warm-up, change the oil and oil filter, refill with fresh oil. NEVER STORE AN ENGINE WITHOUT OIL.
2. If freezing is possible, remove battery from vehicle and store in cool, dry area above freezing temperatures. Do not store battery near flame, sparks, or children (hydrogen gas, explosion hazard).
3. Place supports underneath all four corners of vehicle suspension so that the tires do not contact the ground.
4. Drain fuel from tank, fuel lines, and carburator/injectors (prevent possibilty of gum/varnish formation). Remove lines from fuel pump, and use compressed air to clear system in both directions. If vehicle has mechanical pump, turn over engine to clear pump. Reconnect fuel lines.
5. Remove windshield wiper arms/blades, and store on floorboard of vehicle.

EXTENDED STORAGE BEYOND 60-DAYS:
Follow all steps listed above (less than 60-days) plus the following:
1. Prepare engine for storage: after performing oil change, remove air cleaner and pour 3/4 to 1 pint of 10W or lighter oil into air intake of running engine - pour slowly at first (to assure that combustion chambers, valves, intake/exhaust manifolds are well coated) then quickly dump the last quarter bottle to stall the engine. Replace air cleaner.
2. Relieve all tension from engine belts; move alternator inward, or remove serpentine belts from tensioner pulleys.
3. Place paper bags over carburator/throttle body openings, crankcase vents, tail pipes, and all other crankcase openings and secure with twine (this step is critical in seashore areas where salt air might enter engine or exhaust system).
4. Coat all rubber weatherstrip on vehicle with dielectric silicone grease (around doors, hood, deck openings, windows, exposed rubber gaskets under lights, etc).
5. Arrange to have your disconnected battery charged/maintained periodically to keep it in good condition.

EXTENDED STORAGE BEYOND 6-MONTHS:
Follow all steps listed above (less than 6-months) plus: drain all coolant from engine, radiator, and heater core - (aged antifreeze will eat aluminum given enough time). Also disconnect lower heater hose from heater core to assure complete drain of heater core, then reconnect.

DEEP STORAGE, BEYOND ONE YEAR:
1. Sell present battery (purchase replacement when putting vehicle back in service).
2. Consider removing engine heads, disassemble and coat all valves (completely, head to stem), springs, and small parts with cup grease; likewise coat valve seats, combustion chambers, cylinder bores, etc with cup grease.


Hope this helped and was detailed enough!

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

That's what I do, except I leave the battery connected. I start the car every two weeks and let it run for 1/2 hour or so.

73brewstersd

iTrader: (1)

Exactly what I do, I yet to have an issue for 9 years now... Maybe my time to have issues is coming?

fccs

iTrader: (26)

+2 same here I leave the car in the corner of the garage with a cover on, start it every 2weeks for a good 20min. I do that for 6months until the car comes out. I think some of you guys go overboard hahaha

BLK85

iTrader: (1)

Thats what Im going to do this winter, except Ill probably wait for about a month or so between start ups. If I could take it out of my garage and for a short drive without driving through ANY snow I may just do that.

SweeTbone

iTrader: (8)

Disconnect battery, Sta-bil in the tank and a car cover. Done. I've always heard that starting it up every few weeks is bad. I'm assuming though that this is with older motors if you didn't have a engine oil primer to lube things up with a "rough start". With all the synthetic oils out today I doubt LS1 would really have a harsh start and friction as synthetics really bond to the metal, but I leave mine sit unstarted for 6-7 months and have had zero issues. Did that same routine with my 89 Formula 350 for like 6 years.

As for the jackstands, your suspension was meant to be loaded, so ditch that idea. If you wanted to be picky, pick up four spare/junk tires to throw on during storage so you don't get flat spots on your current treads and stack your good tires up. But I aired my tires up and kept tabs on them and have yet to have any issues on any of my tires, and I've been storing a car in the winter for 10 years now.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

What about putting jacks in the front and back lifting the car just a little bit so the car's entire weight isn't on the suspension, but its not hanging off the floor, like raising the front and back about an inch or inch and a half so the suspension is neither compressed or extended, just in a neutral position with the tire still on the ground?

Chubbz155

iTrader: (7)

This is what I will probably do as well! This is also my first year storing my car since it is the first year I have had it! I am also going to completely wash an wax it as well!

infinite_one

iTrader: (3)

stabilize the gas your not gonna need jack stands your tires wont get flat spots over the winter my 4unner was sitting for 5 years in the same spot and didnt develop flat spots,,,,,and you dont need antifreeze either the stuff your talking about draining is antifreeze (unless your a tard and use water)

johnnybravo

Sounds like you are running straight water in your cooling system. If so, filling the radiator with anti-freeze won't protect your water filled engine block from freezing and cracking. You would need to run the engine to mix the anti-freeze through out the entire cooling system.

But, if you did that, why not just run the recommended mix year round?

SStheBest

iTrader: (2)

some of this im reading is interesting....some of it just sounds redicoulous....but to each his own. I too have my car stored, lol well sorta. Im deployed and its parked under the car port with a cover and stabilizer in the tank...My roomate is there to start her up every now and again....i even told him to drive it around the neighborhood atleast once a month...however i do need to tell him when he does start it, to run the A/C in it as well....I left in the beginning of Oct. and ill return in Feb. 09. with somebody watchin my car, there isnt really a need to do that many elaborate things for storage for the little 4months im gone.

jrob56

iTrader: (39)

ive always just put stabil in the gas, cleaned her up and put a cover on, then every couple weeks let it run for a while or drive it on a nice day around the neighborhood worked for the last two years.

this year though im going to be sending my calipers out to be powdercoated, new rotors and pads, gotta really clean my rims and get new tires too. im gonna try to install some tsp dual as well. so the car will be on jack stand for a week or maybe a couple will it be ok to leave the suspension unloaded for a few weeks during this? what do you guys think? any advice?

allbaugh_04

iTrader: (6)

idk what the best way is, but:

i wash it up, clean the interior good, put dryer sheets in it, put different tires/rims on it, change the oil, put seafoam in the engine and gas tank, cover it, park it, remove the battery, kiss it good bye till next spring

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/416584-things-do-before-storing-your-vehicle.html

There ya go.