stock 10 bolt weakness Q
02-26-2009, 08:23 AM
#45
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02-26-2009, 03:13 PM
#47
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Like everyone said, it's a crapshoot. I broke mine on a 1-2 as well at barely more than stock power levels. It was a mean 1-2, but it was on street tires so it shouldn't have broken. That's the 10-bolt for ya. 
02-26-2009, 03:46 PM
#48
wow, i feel bad for you f-body guys. granted, the 7 5/8" ring diff was originally meant for the anemic 80s cars, but you figure that GM should have scrapped that 'small-ring 10-bolts aren't THAT bad!' idea back in '72, when they went to the 8.5" corporate 10-bolt. and with the LT/LS motors that the 4th-gens received, how did they NOT address this obvious weakness?
see, it's things like that that give the 10-bolt a bad name. 8.5s built with 30-spline axles can handle easily as much power as a 12-bolt for a fraction of the cost.
and I really don't get the love affair with the 9". It's heavy, it sucks too much power due to the depth that the pinion is buried into the ring, and it's over-priced. just my .02.
see, it's things like that that give the 10-bolt a bad name. 8.5s built with 30-spline axles can handle easily as much power as a 12-bolt for a fraction of the cost.
and I really don't get the love affair with the 9". It's heavy, it sucks too much power due to the depth that the pinion is buried into the ring, and it's over-priced. just my .02.
02-26-2009, 05:58 PM
#49
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People on here are bias against the 10bolt lol. True it isnt a super strong rear but it comes down to this. If your on street tires, you shouldn't worry much about it, if doing clutch dumps often, that would probably hurt the clutch more then the rear if its still on street tires once again. Now on the other hand if your trying to get traction by having drag radials or slicks.. then your on borrowed time, thats the type of bullets that hurt the 10bolt.
I run on Nittos now. I used to run Kuhmos 712s(didn't grab for ****)
I have 134000 miles on my car. Its daily driven. I have bmr control arms and a adjustable phb. The wheel are black zr-1 replicas in 9.5. The tires are 285 40 17. Not the fastest car by any means. I've decided the 10 bolt is a joke. I'm saving for a d60 or 12bolt. (i can't get over putting a ford designed part in my G.M.
) So I say good luck... 
02-26-2009, 10:08 PM
#51
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I lost less than 10hp when I went to the 9" w/ 4.11's. And you can get a fab. 9" complete, fully assembled, and shipped to your door with an adjustable t/a and crossmember for $2600, it's not dirt cheap, but it's worth the peace of mind imo.
02-26-2009, 10:32 PM
#52
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Im not a fan of that price tag either. I also work at a fab shop with access to TIG MIG welders(not the machines, but actual welders, lol!) I will probably fab some kind of axle under there when the time comes. I can fab up just about any bracket I will need. I run a CNC machine with a plasma head, so plate brackets and adjustments should be no problem.
02-26-2009, 10:38 PM
#53
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Good job on the switch to an LS1 or LTx car though 
10-bolts tend to live longer lives behind an automatic, but then again I'm sure you will want a manual for more fun to drive factor. Just get girdle covers and possibly have somebody change your gears.
10-bolts tend to live longer lives behind an automatic, but then again I'm sure you will want a manual for more fun to drive factor. Just get girdle covers and possibly have somebody change your gears.
... sounds like a solid plan.
02-26-2009, 11:41 PM
#57
I had a buddy break 2 10 bolts with an slp lid and hooker long tubes, i had another buddy blow 2 10 bolts with a ported throttle body and a heavy foot. But I got away with running a 10 bolt HARD with BADDD!!! wheel hop a built lt1 with over 400rwhp. Basically like the other guy said it depends on your luck and the higher your rear end gear the easier it is to shoot a tooth somewhere.
02-27-2009, 08:02 AM
#59
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I had a buddy break 2 10 bolts with an slp lid and hooker long tubes, i had another buddy blow 2 10 bolts with a ported throttle body and a heavy foot. But I got away with running a 10 bolt HARD with BADDD!!! wheel hop a built lt1 with over 400rwhp. Basically like the other guy said it depends on your luck and the higher your rear end gear the easier it is to shoot a tooth somewhere.
02-27-2009, 07:31 PM
#60
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If I didn't have the money for my 9" I probably would have went through a few of them too, you can repace the diff. for less than $200 if you do some searching.