135k miles, DD, $3500..engine or rear end?
07-10-2009, 09:39 PM
#1
135k miles, DD, $3500..engine or rear end? I've got about $3500 to invest in my DD right now, and I'm wondering how I could best put that money to use. To start, my rear end is howling/popping/vibrating. This fact, coupled with the fact that I use it as a DD and plan on building a turbo car in a few years, is why I had originally planned on buying a midwest rearend just to have a "case closed" rear end that could handle all the power I could make plus be very reliable.
But then I thought about this: I've got 135k on a 98 engine (comp pushrods, new oil pump, valve springs, timing chain at 100k), and I think I could get an LQ9 (which is the engine I want for a turbo build in the future)...and I think I would have a little left over to rebuild the stock rear end to just get me by.
The clutch/trans is fine. Monster III, rebuilt tranny, tick master.
If you were going to DD this car, would you beast-out the rear end?... or get another engine and rebuild the stock rear. I don't plan on taking the car to the track until its got a real rearend.
Help!!!
But then I thought about this: I've got 135k on a 98 engine (comp pushrods, new oil pump, valve springs, timing chain at 100k), and I think I could get an LQ9 (which is the engine I want for a turbo build in the future)...and I think I would have a little left over to rebuild the stock rear end to just get me by.
The clutch/trans is fine. Monster III, rebuilt tranny, tick master.
If you were going to DD this car, would you beast-out the rear end?... or get another engine and rebuild the stock rear. I don't plan on taking the car to the track until its got a real rearend.
Help!!!
07-11-2009, 09:24 PM
#2
Buy a new rearend. Do not build the stock one. I blew mine up 5 times in 3 years and had it apart to fix minor crap like incorrect setup 15 times!!! I did engine first and drivetrain last. Bad idea. I know I liked it at the time, but the downtime over and over again really has sucked. Right now, it's down again because the engine finally failed after running it with heads/cam/intake for about 20K miles (has 153K now). And mine only failed because of a screw up I made during the cam install. So don't worry, your engine will last you awhile. When you finally DO go to build a turbo motor, you can sell your LS1 to put towards the new build. That's what I plan, as I am going the same route as you. Forged L92 head 370 with a single turbo truck mani setup. Buy the rearend, get your suspension set up right and enjoy never having to worry about it breaking when you dump the clutch.
07-11-2009, 11:14 PM
#4
I've got a pecking lifter right now, and its driving me crazy.
Hmm, well so far everyone seems to be on the rear end side of things. I've been getting mad at it lately, and thinking that my $3500 should go towards another DD, and keep the Z for a project later on down the road. But, I've also seen posts on here where people run their engines for 200k plus.
It really would be piece of mind to not worry about the rear end ever again...
Hmm, well so far everyone seems to be on the rear end side of things. I've been getting mad at it lately, and thinking that my $3500 should go towards another DD, and keep the Z for a project later on down the road. But, I've also seen posts on here where people run their engines for 200k plus.
It really would be piece of mind to not worry about the rear end ever again...
07-13-2009, 04:44 PM
#6
I'm thinkin about just doing that. Maybe a beater truck! I'd feel like a real maroon if I blew the whole wad on the rear end and then spun a bearing a week later 
Sure, the rear end would be bullet proof, but I've got nothing to get me by while its down.
With a beater car, I can take my time and systematically rip my car apart without having to worry about getting it back together in time for work the next day.
Sure, the rear end would be bullet proof, but I've got nothing to get me by while its down.
With a beater car, I can take my time and systematically rip my car apart without having to worry about getting it back together in time for work the next day.
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07-13-2009, 05:58 PM
#9
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I'm thinkin about just doing that. Maybe a beater truck! I'd feel like a real maroon if I blew the whole wad on the rear end and then spun a bearing a week later
Sure, the rear end would be bullet proof, but I've got nothing to get me by while its down.
With a beater car, I can take my time and systematically rip my car apart without having to worry about getting it back together in time for work the next day.
Sure, the rear end would be bullet proof, but I've got nothing to get me by while its down.
With a beater car, I can take my time and systematically rip my car apart without having to worry about getting it back together in time for work the next day.
07-13-2009, 07:18 PM
#10
I am gonna pick up a used 10 bolt for $250 or so to keep me on the road till my 383 $$$ is good. Then baby it until I get $$$ for the 12 bolt. All that may change if the tranny craps but such is life. At least I know a GREAT tranny builder.
In hindsight I should have left this 346 stock and put the $$$ towards a 383 to begin with.....
In hindsight I should have left this 346 stock and put the $$$ towards a 383 to begin with.....
07-13-2009, 07:27 PM
#11
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Beater truck man, pick up a used 10 bolt and rebuild the small stuff then buy a complete lq9.
The rear end is the next project for me. Bye bye 1k
The rear end is the next project for me. Bye bye 1k
07-13-2009, 07:39 PM
#12
I guess now I need to focus on finding out what kind of beater vehicle to get
Is there really a market for a 98 lS1 with 135k miles on it??? I just kinda figured I'd hold on to it for my '49 project one day, but hell, if someone would buy it I'd sell it. What do they go for?
07-13-2009, 08:27 PM
#13
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Good luck doing a rear end for $1k
I guess now I need to focus on finding out what kind of beater vehicle to get
Is there really a market for a 98 lS1 with 135k miles on it??? I just kinda figured I'd hold on to it for my '49 project one day, but hell, if someone would buy it I'd sell it. What do they go for?
I guess now I need to focus on finding out what kind of beater vehicle to get
Is there really a market for a 98 lS1 with 135k miles on it??? I just kinda figured I'd hold on to it for my '49 project one day, but hell, if someone would buy it I'd sell it. What do they go for?
I would say around 1500 minimum complete or 1200 longblock minumum.
I plan on keeping the 10 bolt BTW. Should be easy to keep it under 1k
07-13-2009, 10:11 PM
#14
Wow. I never thought I could get that for it.
Sweet
FWIW, I haven't spent any money on my 10 bolt. I had a set of used richmond gears in my garage, and a mac performance cover. I put the gears in myself, and really only spent the cost of some fluid, shims, and a bearing or two. Every time I grab a gear I wince a little, just thinking about how it might grenade.
In fact, when I had it apart to put the gears in I noticed a couple of spider gear teeth clinging to the magnet... I killed it with minimal bolt on power and stock tires. I wouldnt put any money into beefing up a 10 bolt at all. My advice to you is to save that $ and wait until its about $2k and get a good 9" setup, depending on how serious you get with it.
Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm gonna look for a beater.
Sweet
FWIW, I haven't spent any money on my 10 bolt. I had a set of used richmond gears in my garage, and a mac performance cover. I put the gears in myself, and really only spent the cost of some fluid, shims, and a bearing or two. Every time I grab a gear I wince a little, just thinking about how it might grenade.
In fact, when I had it apart to put the gears in I noticed a couple of spider gear teeth clinging to the magnet... I killed it with minimal bolt on power and stock tires. I wouldnt put any money into beefing up a 10 bolt at all. My advice to you is to save that $ and wait until its about $2k and get a good 9" setup, depending on how serious you get with it.Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm gonna look for a beater.
07-14-2009, 07:34 AM
#16
I've had my heart set on the MWC rear end that I don't think I could settle for anything else... except maybe an S60. If I don't get a beater car, then I'll probably end up getting a used carrier for my 10 bolt that can hopefully get me into my next career, where I'll be able to afford a better rear end.
08-25-2009, 11:56 PM
#18
Okay, I think I need to bring this thread back to life. I've been doing a lot of thinking, and letting my $3500 do some work for me on the stock market , and I think I'm gonna do the rear end first.
Lets assume that down time and a beater car arent an issue.
I'd like to compare the MWC 9 inch to the S60. Eric sells both, so he'll be getting the sale. Before I start comparing what I've found I'd like to start by saying that I've researched all available rear end options. 12 bolts are the most expensive (over 3k) if you throw all the options to them (lca relocation brackets/performance cover/trutrac/powdercoating/33 spline/abs) and yet they're on the threshold of being worthless for M6 cars that like to hook up Old School 9 inch setups seem like a deal, at first, until you throw the same barrage of options at it.
This leaves me with the only other rear ends that I wanted to compare: the S60 and the MWC rear. I don't believe the two have been compared on this site before either.
The S60 needs either a new driveshaft or a shortened one (not really a big deal). It requires either the purchase of new backing plates ($240 yikes!) or just sending yours in (no problem). Pinion angles arent a concern ( I think) and I havent found any info to suggest that all of your stock crap (lca/phb/torque arm) can't be reused, which might be my case. Its heavier, but who cares? Its not like its a 14 bolt or a unimog axle, lol. Its 25 lbs. I can live with that, especially when its basically cheaper than any other rear and its pretty much indestructible. With 35 spline axles, cheap abs relucter rings, and a Detroit Locker its ~400 cheaper than a standard 9" with a trutrack. Hmmm.
The MWC rear, on the other hand, is beast, comes with a nasty torque arm/dsl combo, LCA relocation brackets, and is pretty much a bolt in beauty. When you add in the powder coating and ABS options its ~400 more than the S60.
One comes with a really good torque arm, and a trac-lock rear; the other with 35 spline axles, and cheap options. Both fit really well, and both can handle some major power. The S60 wouldnt require any type of backbrace though...hmmm... One is a work of art while the other is basically a monster of a stock looking rear end.
I think I'll give Eric a call and find out exactly the price difference between the two, and get a list of available options and pricing on the S60, to include a driveshaft.
Let me know which would be better: S60 or MWC for bolt-in street use (with turbo and slicks in the future)
, and I think I'm gonna do the rear end first. Lets assume that down time and a beater car arent an issue.
I'd like to compare the MWC 9 inch to the S60. Eric sells both, so he'll be getting the sale. Before I start comparing what I've found I'd like to start by saying that I've researched all available rear end options. 12 bolts are the most expensive (over 3k) if you throw all the options to them (lca relocation brackets/performance cover/trutrac/powdercoating/33 spline/abs) and yet they're on the threshold of being worthless for M6 cars that like to hook up
Old School 9 inch setups seem like a deal, at first, until you throw the same barrage of options at it. This leaves me with the only other rear ends that I wanted to compare: the S60 and the MWC rear. I don't believe the two have been compared on this site before either.
The S60 needs either a new driveshaft or a shortened one (not really a big deal). It requires either the purchase of new backing plates ($240 yikes!) or just sending yours in (no problem). Pinion angles arent a concern ( I think) and I havent found any info to suggest that all of your stock crap (lca/phb/torque arm) can't be reused, which might be my case. Its heavier, but who cares? Its not like its a 14 bolt or a unimog axle, lol. Its 25 lbs. I can live with that, especially when its basically cheaper than any other rear and its pretty much indestructible. With 35 spline axles, cheap abs relucter rings, and a Detroit Locker its ~400 cheaper than a standard 9" with a trutrack. Hmmm.
The MWC rear, on the other hand, is beast, comes with a nasty torque arm/dsl combo, LCA relocation brackets, and is pretty much a bolt in beauty. When you add in the powder coating and ABS options its ~400 more than the S60.
One comes with a really good torque arm, and a trac-lock rear; the other with 35 spline axles, and cheap options. Both fit really well, and both can handle some major power. The S60 wouldnt require any type of backbrace though...hmmm... One is a work of art while the other is basically a monster of a stock looking rear end.
I think I'll give Eric a call and find out exactly the price difference between the two, and get a list of available options and pricing on the S60, to include a driveshaft.
Let me know which would be better: S60 or MWC for bolt-in street use (with turbo and slicks in the future)
Last edited by KurtRardin; 08-26-2009 at 12:02 AM.
08-26-2009, 09:29 PM
#20
I talked to Eric today and found out the following:
I can get into a base S60 for about the same price as a standard Moser with spool... only the S60 will have 35 spline axles and a trutrack.
The MWC rear needs a back brace to withstand repeated abuse above 600rwhp ($150) and the S60 can handle 1200hp out of the box. The S60 needs a driveshaft ($300). Both are capable of bolting right in reusing all the stock non-adjustable stuff (except for the torque arm on the MWC because it COMES WITH A SWEET ONE). The fitment of both is excellent. I added about $600 in options to my dream S60: Chromoly yolk, the sweet "S" aluminum diff cover, relocator brackets, ABS, and a Strange DriveShaft. The MWC needed about the same amount, but comes with relocator brackets already.
The S60 has the ability to be a little cheaper than the MWC rear up front because you save a little cash if you're looking to get a trutrac... and you wont spend $125 on powdercoating becase its just not even available on the S60. Rattle can from Advance only
If a fellow wanted to be even cheaper, then he could just have his own driveshaft shortened, not do ABS, and forego the sweet aluminum diff cover and just get the chrome one that comes with it. The base package is really all you need to get a basic bolt-in rear end from Strange. With all the options that it comes with, its by far the cheapest rear end option we have.
Does anyone else see the irony here: The strongest rear end option, holding 1200hp, is the cheapest, while the weakest (12 bolt) is the most expensive (by like $700) if you add in all the do dads to make it as sweet as the S60. Hmm.
I'm starting to lean in a strange way...
I can get into a base S60 for about the same price as a standard Moser with spool... only the S60 will have 35 spline axles and a trutrack.
The MWC rear needs a back brace to withstand repeated abuse above 600rwhp ($150) and the S60 can handle 1200hp out of the box. The S60 needs a driveshaft ($300). Both are capable of bolting right in reusing all the stock non-adjustable stuff (except for the torque arm on the MWC because it COMES WITH A SWEET ONE). The fitment of both is excellent. I added about $600 in options to my dream S60: Chromoly yolk, the sweet "S" aluminum diff cover, relocator brackets, ABS, and a Strange DriveShaft. The MWC needed about the same amount, but comes with relocator brackets already.
The S60 has the ability to be a little cheaper than the MWC rear up front because you save a little cash if you're looking to get a trutrac... and you wont spend $125 on powdercoating becase its just not even available on the S60. Rattle can from Advance only
If a fellow wanted to be even cheaper, then he could just have his own driveshaft shortened, not do ABS, and forego the sweet aluminum diff cover and just get the chrome one that comes with it. The base package is really all you need to get a basic bolt-in rear end from Strange. With all the options that it comes with, its by far the cheapest rear end option we have.
Does anyone else see the irony here: The strongest rear end option, holding 1200hp, is the cheapest, while the weakest (12 bolt) is the most expensive (by like $700) if you add in all the do dads to make it as sweet as the S60. Hmm.
I'm starting to lean in a strange way...